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Checking a non-running engine

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
note the "safely plugged" drain hole!!!

note the "safely plugged" drain hole!!!

yup, the drain hole plugged with red silicone :confused:

PB090715.jpg
 
taking the bits off the engine today i discovered that the crankcases have already been welded in the area behind the rotor (where the main point of impact must have been)

not sure what to make of it... did the engine run after the repair?... or did they try to fix it but really couldn't?


i'll continue taking things appart and make posts here - and your comments are most appreciated


it would really suck to throw the money into this thing and find out the hard way it wasn't worth it - on the other hand, there really isn't any alternative given there are no good engines available on the market here
 
Welded crankcases don't sound good. You plan on splitting the cases and checking everything out right?
 
psyguy said:
...
i turned the engine by hand to run the exposed rotor against a straight edge - to check for any run-out (as that's where the engine was hit) - i could detect only a minimal runout (like 0,5mm or less)
...
Click to expand...

Half a mm? Is that correct? The 850 FSM allows no more than 0.05 mm runout on the crank. I would expect similar for the 1100. If that's not a typo, I'd be wanting to pull that rotor off and check the crank itself.
 
Dogma said:
Half a mm? Is that correct? The 850 FSM allows no more than 0.05 mm runout on the crank. I would expect similar for the 1100. If that's not a typo, I'd be wanting to pull that rotor off and check the crank itself.
Click to expand...

no, not a typo... but not an accurate measurement either (kind of "by eye")
i'm splitting the cases and having everything checked - including the crank for the runout

does the rotor have to come off to check the runout?
 
psyguy said:
no, not a typo... but not an accurate measurement either (kind of "by eye")
i'm splitting the cases and having everything checked - including the crank for the runout

does the rotor have to come off to check the runout?
Click to expand...

I would think so. Otherwise you're checking runout of crank + rotor. I don't fully remember what the rotor looks like, but if there is a hub where it fits onto the crank, you could indicate on that instead of the rotor OD. That should get a pretty good reading, since the hub will probably not deform before the rest of the rotor is destroyed.

Anyhow, I'm thinking (hoping) that it's the rotor that's bent, and not the crank. I couldn't find a runout limit for the rotor in my manual. My memory of the fit in the stator is that 0.5 mm runout would cause rubbing. I'm almost certain it would cause a nasty vibration.
 
good point about possibly the stator only being bent and not the shaft, haven't thought about that
anyhow, will take the crank to the shop and see what they say
 
buggered a few screws today...

buggered a few screws today...

the usual suspects - those nasty philips head set screws behind the clutch... so will have to drill them out :o

my chinese made impact driver bit broke in the process! :confused:

i know, i know, buy a good quality tool and have it for life :idea:
 
psyguy said:
my chinese made impact driver bit broke in the process! :confused:

i know, i know, buy a good quality tool and have it for life :idea:
Click to expand...
You can have your Chinese made driver for life, too. :-k






If you can find all the pieces. :D

.
 
buggered screws

buggered screws

PB100719.jpg


so, the two remaining set screws i can probably drill out
the top screw on the oil pump, i can drill the head off

now, the bottom screw on the oil pump... uhm it's in the very corner... i can't really get to it with the drill
i don't have a dremel tool, so cutting a slot in the head is not an option

suggestions please :)
 
That looks familiar...

I'm still using the cheap impact driver, but with new bits. I've come to regard bits as disposable, since they come from the hardware store in little Tic-Tac boxes.
 
ok, all the screws are now out and i can continue with separating the cases :)

the pistons and the bores look all right to the naked eye... measurements to follow
 
Hi Psyguy it looks like a bit of a mission you have on your'e hands good luck. Just by reading this thread about the motor being in an accident and by looking at your photos of the engine I just happen to have some parts mainly cosmetic cam cover,gear selector cover and a couple of stator covers.If you decide to proceed and do this engine up I can pass these parts on to a fellow GSr member for the cost of freight.:D.P.S how are you getting on with organising the big Kiwi get together? I have a few mates that would be keen on it. Cheers Freddy:)
 
Freddy said:
I can pass these parts on to a fellow GSr member for the cost of freight.
P.S. how are you getting on with organising the big Kiwi get together? I have a few mates that would be keen on it.
Click to expand...

hi freddy

here's the thread on the kiwi gs get-together:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134357
if you and your mates that are interested would care to drop a line in that thread that'd be awesome :)
it could become a nightmare organising something like this unless everyone's registered on the same site


the engine is now disassembled - i'll post the pics up soon - the crankcases have been welded in few places but it seems that the bike was on the road AFTER that so i may be in luck after all :-k

i'm definitely keen on relieving you of one of the stator covers - that's the only bit i'm missing (i think :D )
 
WEll first, if the cams are missing, are the cam caps on the head? If not, pass on it.

If they are, do a leakdown test. See how worn out it is.

Jay
 
Big Jay said:
WEll first, if the cams are missing, are the cam caps on the head? If not, pass on it.

If they are, do a leakdown test. See how worn out it is.

Jay
Click to expand...

thanks jay
i've got the whole thing. the cams were off only as my mate needed to use some shims. the engine is now completely disasembled.
the wear on the top end isn't really a concern, the bottom end is - in particular, any misallignment in the cases
 
update

update

the crankcases and the crankshaft are now at the reconditioners shop for the inspection of all clearances, alignment, runouts, etc.

should have some information by the end of next week - fingers crossed!
 
well, the 1100 crankcases and the cranksfaft came back from the engine reconditioners and the verdict is not so good.
apparently, the crankases "tunnel" where the crankshaft sits is so much out of alignment that it can't be repaired. it must have been a might crash to twist/misalign the cases.

the crankshaft seems ok though.

so, i guess Bruno stays an 850 for now... :(
 
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