Checking coils, got a shock!

[UncleMike]

Yeah your resistance is about 10k too low I think. As I understand it, sometimes when the coils fail they short out in their windings somewhere and the resistance is reduced (less windings for the current to go through). The coils might be drawing more current like that, but I doubt it'd make your tail light go out -- dim maybe, but not go out.

If your tail light goes out when you rev the motor, something else is amiss. Don't have a clue as to what it could be, though...

Okay,...new coils are in order, because I know the caps are good, since I just changed them.

HEY BILLY! Got any more examples of suitable coil replacements? The last link you gave me has ended.

As for the short. I'll find the little bast*rd.

Thanks,
~Mike

 

[Billy Ricks]

Bandit, Katana, and GSXR coils before about 2k will work. The only GSXR coils that won't work are the ones where the coil is built into the plug cap.

 

[UncleMike]

Bandit, Katana, and GSXR coils before about 2k will work. The only GSXR coils that won't work are the ones where the coil is built into the plug cap.

Man, I can't seem to find 'em as cheap as you did the other day. Are all of these okay?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/suzu...2QQihZ012QQcategoryZ35594QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160008445189

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000...ryZ35594QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[t3rmin]

Looks like the coils in the first two links have removable/replaceable wires (can't tell in the third), which is a big plus.

 

[jimcor]

'Nother goofy thing you might check, and it's cheap. The turn signal flasher. I 've been having trouble with mine for quite a while and for some reason I put of messing with it. Got a two prong replacement for older cars, thermal...not electronic, from the auto parts store. $2.70. Took the old Suzuki part apart and it was full of orange dust. Mud? Road dust? How something that full of crud worked even a little is beyond me. It's open to the environment, not sealed. Your Suzuki plug will attatch no problemo. I just tie wrapped it to the old mount, left the rubber part, on as a vibration isolator.

 

[UncleMike]

'Nother goofy thing you might check, and it's cheap. The turn signal flasher. I 've been having trouble with mine for quite a while and for some reason I put of messing with it. Got a two prong replacement for older cars, thermal...not electronic, from the auto parts store. $2.70. Took the old Suzuki part apart and it was full of orange dust. Mud? Road dust? How something that full of crud worked even a little is beyond me. It's open to the environment, not sealed. Your Suzuki plug will attatch no problemo. I just tie wrapped it to the old mount, left the rubber part, on as a vibration isolator.

Are you talking about the actual signals, or the switch on the handlebar?

 

[jimcor]

No, Mike. I mean the flasher relay itself. My flasher unit is mounted on a frame tube near the r/r on the left side of the bike under the side panel near the tool box. It is a little black plastic box about the size and shape of a small matchbox. It will have an L shaped 2 prong connector coming out of it.

A replacement from the parts house will be a round, bare, pot metal bodied job, probably Indonesian.

I've got electrical woes again too, and if a blinker unit will fix it for $3.00 I'll dance a jig.

 

[jimcor]

If your parts store doesn't have a display area, ask for a 'thermal, two prong, turn signal flasher'. The newer electronic flashers, besides costing almost three times more, don't always work on our bikes. I think Suzuki wants about $25.00 for this part. ](*,)

 

[UncleMike]

No, Mike. I mean the flasher relay itself. My flasher unit is mounted on a frame tube near the r/r on the left side of the bike under the side panel near the tool box. It is a little black plastic box about the size and shape of a small matchbox. It will have an L shaped 2 prong connector coming out of it.

A replacement from the parts house will be a round, bare, pot metal bodied job, probably Indonesian.

I've got electrical woes again too, and if a blinker unit will fix it for $3.00 I'll dance a jig.

Might as well give it a butcher's.

Thanks!
Mike

 

[beby99]

Also, I was talking with an electrically inclined friend of mine, and he was thinking that since my rear running light is only blinking out when I'm revving the engine

Could just be vibrations. Check that the bulb is securely in the socket and/or swap it with another bulb.

 

[UncleMike]

Could just be vibrations. Check that the bulb is securely in the socket and/or swap it with another bulb.

Did that, but it definitely seems as though it's losing power, as it slowly flickers and then dims out as I rev.

 

[UncleMike]

No, Mike. I mean the flasher relay itself. My flasher unit is mounted on a frame tube near the r/r on the left side of the bike under the side panel near the tool box. It is a little black plastic box about the size and shape of a small matchbox. It will have an L shaped 2 prong connector coming out of it.

A replacement from the parts house will be a round, bare, pot metal bodied job, probably Indonesian.

I've got electrical woes again too, and if a blinker unit will fix it for $3.00 I'll dance a jig.

Okay, looks like mine is under my gastank, right above the carbs. Is this something I should test, or just replace regardless?

Thanks,
~Mike

 

[jimcor]

For three bucks I'd replace it. Yours is in a protected location compared to mine but it's still not a sealed unit and has to have corrosion in it. I tested my new one yesterday and the erratic blinking at high revs is now gone.

The erratic operation of your tail light on your bike at high rpms and the bad flashing of my signals is what prompted me to suggest this in the first place. Makes me wonder what my tail light is doing too.

Lectriks, boo on, lectriks. ](*,)

 

[UncleMike]

For three bucks I'd replace it. Yours is in a protected location compared to mine but it's still not a sealed unit and has to have corrosion in it. I tested my new one yesterday and the erratic blinking at high revs is now gone.

The erratic operation of your tail light on your bike at high rpms and the bad flashing of my signals is what prompted me to suggest this in the first place. Makes me wonder what my tail light is doing too.

Lectriks, boo on, lectriks. ](*,)

Okay, will do! Thanks, brother. I appreciate it.

 

[UncleMike]

Okay, boys. Bought these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000...ryZ35594QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And they showed up today. Mount up nicely, all the hardware fights, but the wires aren't long enough.

So I need new wires. If I'm gonna do it, I might as well do it right. What should I get and where should I get 'em. The local motorcycle shop has bulk sparkplug wire. Does it matter to get those vs. say, Accel or something else?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[t3rmin]

Word is just get a V8 plug wire kit down at the local auto parts store. Brand isn't important although you're likely to end up with Accel. Be sure it's stranded wire and I think either 7 or 8 mm will work. A V8 kit will give you enough for two sets of wires.

 

[UncleMike]

Damn!

Damn!

Apparently those wires weren't as removable as they looked,...

Pulled them free and they were down in the coil a good amount and secured with some gray goop.

Any idea how to clean that gray goop out?

 

[UncleMike]

Picked up some Accel wires today. $22.

Hi-temp
Super-stock
Copper-core
7mm

With the plug caps that came with it and attached to the coil, I'm getting a 15.3 reading on secondary resistance with the multimeter set to 200K on the ohm setting.

How'd I do?

Mike