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Checking for life in an engine

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mop Bucket
  • Start date Start date
That u-joint is nasty- looks like a sewage outlet ! As for screw in #4 carb body, maybe PO was to trying to satisfy EPA compliance by replugging. Keep at it- do you have any boxes of stuff for this or just what's hanging on bike?

I do have a box of stuff, rusty pipes, and rusty odds and ends. Nice looking horn though and assorted turn signals and headlight without mounting hardware. Stuff like that.

 
Do you have the air box/ air filter assembly in your collection ? Any luck with that stuck plug?
 
I have the air filter but not the air box, the part that hooks to the carbs is missing, but the end box is there. I put some penetrating oil on the spark plug and let it sit. When I tried to use my 5/8'' spark plug socket it wouldn't fit. The thing is big. I haven't measured to see what size it is yet, anyone know off the top of their Head?
 
Sorry to say this but that bike looks like a parts bike to me. It's going to take a LOT of work to get back into running shape, and plenty of money too. If you just want a rat bike then no worry, otherwise you might want to look for something a little less hammered.;)
 
Spark plug is 18 mm I believe...
Yes, 18 mm!- a 3/4" would be a poor choice since you got a stuck plug and need a good fit.
Hopefully, you'll take Nessism's point with an open mind! Looking at the pics, I doubt that you thought that this was going to be a piece of cake and would be running by Halloween. There was another poster with poorly running bike that he got cheap- One of the replies to him was something like " the $200 bike that keeps on giving " ! Sometimes, bikes get abused to the point where it ain't worth the trouble.
 
Give up? Nah, I just got started and don't even know if there is a problem... well ok, its missing a lot of parts. Half the fun of this project is one, its my first one and two I keep finding out interesting things. Like looks can be deceptive. The stuck spark plug, well it might not have been stuck. On the way home from work I picked up an impact spark plug socket, 18mm. I put it on a wrench and give it a twist with fingers and it spun the plug. Either that penatrating oil worked wonders or it wasn't stuck. Did I mention I am a newbie? It looked stuck and I didn't have a wrench that would fit until tonight. More mysteries on this bike, why replace three of the four plugs? Anyway, I should have the bike in my shop soon so I can really dig into it. Thanks for the input so far.
 
More mysteries on this bike, why replace three of the four plugs?

Welcome to the wonderful world of PO owned bikes.

Why do they put steel wool in the exhaust?
Why do they pull the head off a perfectly good engine to let it sit?
Why do they lose the carburetors and the titles?

Why because they are POs, that's what they do.
 
Give up? Nah, I just got started and don't even know if there is a problem... well ok, its missing a lot of parts. Half the fun of this project is one, its my first one and two I keep finding out interesting things.
I'm glad you're looking forward to it- we like enthusiasm! But you must now figure out what parts are missing so you can get a handle on the cost of replacement stuff if you intend to make it roadworthy. If this is just a project about "interesting things" , that's fine. Are you willing to spend $500 on needed parts and many hours of labor? For that kind of money, you can buy a very complete and close to running bike that's been sitting idle in somebody's garage for twenty years. It depends on what you want.
 
Update

Update

I couldn't wait to get working on the GS so instead of waiting until I finish my main bike and an open spot in the shop, I started working. (I use shop loosely, basically I move my car out of the garage)

IMG00711.jpg

Anyways, I hand cranked the engine by hand and it moved pretty easy. Not sure what it should feel like, there was resistance but not a ton. Should I do anything else before doing this? I plan on doing a basscliff carb rebuild, oil change, new o-rings, and other maintenance at some point.

Back to the threads point, whats the next step? Fire it up?
 
Engine turning over is always a good point. Since there was no resistance by hand you should be all good to hook up a good battery and see if she will start. Opinions will vary here but if you just want to see if lady luck is on your side and check if the engine will start, I say put some gas in and press the starter with your fingers and toes crossed.

Otherwise, it may pay to drop the oil and put in some cheap stuff first. If you don't put any new oil in, and it does start, turn it off straight away. You don't want to be sitting there proud as punch reving the engine only to find that the old oil is like tar and 2 minutes latter the engine siezes on you. That would be just my luck.

If it starts, trun it off, drop the oil and replace the filter. Use a nice diesel spec oil, I think Rotella is the one everyone over there raves about.

Looking good.
 
I don't think we're at the pour gas in and give it a whirl stage yet. When you revolve engine, you're using a wrench on large nut (19mm ?) and not that little guy holding the advancer ? and clockwise? Did you make two revolutions, so you know the valves aren't bumping into anything?
Get a sample of oil out- hopefully it will be ok for now.
Sure, get a battery and see if it will crank over.
 
Provided there's nothing catastrophic wrong with the topend of the engine...and I doubt there is....it will run. These bikes WANT to run.

If it were me, I'd do the following.

1) Clean/dip and rebuild the carbs as per the carb cleaning series.
2) Adjust the valves. Very important step.
3) Check your petcock operation.
4) Make sure the air intake system/filter box is sealed properly.
5) Electrical checks as per the stator papers.
6) Of course, new fluids, filters and gaskets as required.

Once you get this far, you'll have a better understanding of what else your bike may need and as far as the engine goes, it should be running pretty well. After all this, you'll need to do brake work, tires, drivetrain, etc......

Good Luck !!!:)
 
If it were me, I'd do the following.

1) Clean/dip and rebuild the carbs as per the carb cleaning series.
2) Adjust the valves. Very important step.
3) Check your petcock operation.
4) Make sure the air intake system/filter box is sealed properly.
5) Electrical checks as per the stator papers.
6) Of course, new fluids, filters and gaskets as required.


Good Luck !!!:)

Thanks tom and Larry, I will work on these parts, here is what i know I need to do:

1) Clean/dip and rebuild the carbs as per the carb cleaning series.
I plan on doing this, I have everything I need to do this.
2) Adjust the valves. Very important step.
I will check them soon as I can
3) Check your petcock operation.
This is going to be a problem, it is rusted stuck... working on that
4) Make sure the air intake system/filter box is sealed properly.
No air box or filter in the bike
5) Electrical checks as per the stator papers.
Might be missing some parts not seeing a rectifier, some connectors have been cut off the wire harness. The spark plug caps are rusted. Needs new spark plugs.
6) Of course, new fluids, filters and gaskets as required.
Have everything to change the oil
 
Update

Update

Was able to track down all the eletrical problems and get the starter spinning. Put some gas in a funnel, hit the starter button and it took of like a banshee. The speedometer said it got up to 60mph before I killed it. Scared the crap out of me. The PO had the speedo connected to the engine. Fixed that, turned the idle nob counter clockwise, turn it a ton. I was only able to get it to 2500 RPMs but that is better than redline on startup. Not sure if this is something I need to fix before carb rebuild or worry about it later? Could also have went down in idle because ran out of gas, not sure, it held at 2500 for 15 seconds or so than died.

Anyways, thanks again. Exciting that the engine sounded great, except the sky high rpms.

 
Mop Bucket, PM sent. I have a complete air box from my 81 750E if it will fit, comes with K&N filter too.
 
I opened up the top to check valve clearances and wanted to post a follow up to what the inside of the ugly weld looked like. When I broke the gasket seal I had a bad surprise. There was the sound of small rock hitting metal, lots of small rocks hitting metal. Below is part of what I pulled out of one side of the engine. There was crap all over the shims, buckets and floor. Below are the big chucks that came out. The dollar bill is for reference. I spent hours cleaning that crap out. Had to stuff in corners and nooks to get as much as I could. Anyone know what that stuff is? I feel like I was hill billed by the original owner.

crapinhead.jpg
I



As a follow up I also took a picture of the ugly weld job from the inside. I don?t know if that is a good job or not.

insideheadweld.jpg


Side note, I would have bought the tappet tool, if the local dealership would have had one to check valve clearances. Instead I tried the zip tie method. It is supper easy to do and cheap. I was a little scared of breaking, but I think if I always use newer and pliable ties I don't need to worry too much.
 
Someone left tho valve cover off, those are leaves and stuff. I would remove the oil pan to make surer they all come out. But the oil filter will probably get them if you don't.I wouldn't worry about the weld, if it wasn't leaking it won't.
 
"lots of small rocks hitting metal" ??? Did you find any sand/ gravel in there? Unless southwestern leaves are unusually heavy, I don't get the sound. Definitely, drop oil pan and look for more items.
 
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