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Choke not even working

GabrielGoes

GabrielGoes

Forum Mentor
So guys my carbs are being such little idiots, its being a big pain inthe @** to start when its cold and the choke doesnt even work... i have been playing with the carbs for the past couple of weeks.. the choke makes my idle at 1k rpms when usually it shoots to like 3.5k... extreme spitting noises also lol.. any ideas?
 
Are you just using the choke cable ? Try doing it manually at the choke rail.

What have you been doing with the carbs ?:)
 
GabrielGoes said:
So guys my carbs are being such little idiots, its being a big pain inthe @** to start when its cold and the choke doesnt even work... i have been playing with the carbs for the past couple of weeks.. the choke makes my idle at 1k rpms when usually it shoots to like 3.5k... extreme spitting noises also lol.. any ideas?
Click to expand...

When was the last valve clearance check?
Spitting noises are usally caused by lean running, check intake boots. Also check the enrichment valve o'rings for possible leaks. Might also need to check the enrichment passage in the float bowls.

bad boots were causing my funny start up running on my 79 850. They would suck air till they heated up and sealed off.
 
Larry D said:
What have you been doing with the carbs ?:)
Click to expand...

ive been going back and fourth with the pilot fuel screws on the bottom and the pilot air screws on the sides and moving up and down on main jet sizes currently im on 125 which makes the bike run the best.... bike has new intake boots, and i have been using it at the choke lever mine doesnt even have choke cable.. maybe the rubber o rings around each individual choke thing are letting in air..
 
GabrielGoes said:
maybe the rubber o rings around each individual choke thing are letting in air..
Click to expand...

could be
hard start cold is usally a valve clearance issue.
Too rich should cause a easy cold start but a crappy warm running
 
GabrielGoes said:
... i dont think any of these items in the "carb rebuild kit" shown are really the issue here :
Click to expand...
Any chance you still have the old parts? They are probably better.

The fact that you have installed rebuild kits only complicates troubleshooting.


GabrielGoes said:
... i dont even see the choke plunger rubber thing there eaither?
Click to expand...
Strangely, I have not seen them in ANY kit, including the highly-recommended one from forum member Robert Barr. :-k


GabrielGoes said:
... i think my mixture screws where set too rich and thats why it had trouble starting im gonna go mess with it right now
Click to expand...
Rather than "messing with it", why not "set it"? :confused:

With your pods and pipe combination, the pilot fuel screws (the ones on the bottom of the carbs) should be out about 1 to 1 1/8 turns. For a starting point, the air screws (those are the ones on the side of the carbs) should be close to double that.

.
 
Steve said:
Rather than "messing with it", why not "set it"? :confused:

With your pods and pipe combination, the pilot fuel screws (the ones on the bottom of the carbs) should be out about 1 to 1 1/8 turns. For a starting point, the air screws (those are the ones on the side of the carbs) should be close to double that.

.
Click to expand...

i set it out 1 1/2 turns each and the air screws double. this is the settings it used to really work every time, i have never owned the bike in cold weather as i got it last springish... so this is the first time i have faced cold hard starts... right now the bike doesnt start unless i try for 10 minutes, starts right up when warmed up though... is this a tell tale sign for a valve adjustment or are there any quick fixes out there?
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Valve adjustment to start Gabriel like a lot of folks have already told you.
Click to expand...

yup this is definitely comming soon, i heard a while ago that there are certain spark plugs that work better in the winter when i had my ninja 250 the sparkplugs for the summer was XXX-7 and the winter ones were XXX-8... does anyone know anything about htis?
 
GabrielGoes said:
yup this is definitely comming soon, i heard a while ago that there are certain spark plugs that work better in the winter when i had my ninja 250 the sparkplugs for the summer was XXX-7 and the winter ones were XXX-8... does anyone know anything about htis?
Click to expand...

NGK B8ES, and hey, while you are at it, why not adjust the valves so it starts instantly when it's cold.
 
The plugs are not the problem. If they are, it is because they are being tortured in the "starting process". :confused:

If you are afraid of the valve adjustment process, that is OK to admit. If you've never done one, it can be a little intimidating, for sure.

There are loads of people who will be happy to help you through the process and make it a learning event and not a torture session.

Just have to ask.

Waiting, won't fix the bike and with all the cranking you're doing, you are taking precious life out of your starter and may soon be asking why it won't crank at all.

Just my take on the situation...
 
Dave8338 said:
The plugs are not the problem. If they are, it is because they are being tortured in the "starting process". :confused:

If you are afraid of the valve adjustment process, that is OK to admit. If you've never done one, it can be a little intimidating, for sure.

There are loads of people who will be happy to help you through the process and make it a learning event and not a torture session.

Just have to ask.

Waiting, won't fix the bike and with all the cranking you're doing, you are taking precious life out of your starter and may soon be asking why it won't crank at all.

Just my take on the situation...
Click to expand...

thanks guys for the support... i took out my Iridium plugs and they were all soaking wet and all black and ruined looking! i put in my spare B8ES's and she started kind of right up but with full choke it only sat around 1k rpm! i just asked my local bike shop guy how much for a valve adjustment he says 250 dollars! i have done pretty much everything on my bike and i am not about to just sell out on this valve adjustment... my only fear or question is can anyone just tell me what valve shims i need for each valve? is there a guide for sizes? i pretty much understand the whole process and i want to replace ALL of them regardless if they need it or not.. here is bike bandits link : http://www.bikebandit.com/1978-suzuki-gs750-valve-shim-kit-refill-packages/c/a676361?mg=3642&t=1 theres like 50 different options and sizes to get im totally lost
 
Get ahold of Steve for his spreadsheet and talk to GhostGS1 about the shim club. You need to measure with what is in there now, document that size, and then go down from there. It's not hard and Basscliff's procedures are not hard to follow. Even with buying a set of METRIC feeler gauges (~$3 or $4), the Suzuki tool from Z1 (~$13), getting a new valve cover/breather cover gasket, and paying the club for shipping or $10, you'll come way out on top. Even with the time waiting for everything to come in it only took me about 2 or 3 hours of actual work.

After reading things again, you'll need to also resynch your carbs when you are done with the valve job.
 
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GabrielGoes said:
thanks guys for the support... i took out my Iridium plugs and they were all soaking wet and all black and ruined looking! i put in my spare B8ES's and she started kind of right up but with full choke it only sat around 1k rpm! i just asked my local bike shop guy how much for a valve adjustment he says 250 dollars! i have done pretty much everything on my bike and i am not about to just sell out on this valve adjustment... my only fear or question is can anyone just tell me what valve shims i need for each valve? is there a guide for sizes? i pretty much understand the whole process and i want to replace ALL of them regardless if they need it or not.. here is bike bandits link : http://www.bikebandit.com/1978-suzuki-gs750-valve-shim-kit-refill-packages/c/a676361?mg=3642&t=1 theres like 50 different options and sizes to get im totally lost
Click to expand...

Gabriel, it is a process that is for sure. But it is one you CAN pull off. Valves should be adjusted every 3,000 miles so its something you need to learn so you can save money in the long run.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs850valve_adjust.pdf

If you have 2 hands and a 10mm and 12mm wrench, you CAN do this.

Also, you kinda have to. Tight valves will burn leaving you having to pull the head and replace valves :eek:
 
raistian77 said:
Gabriel, it is a process that is for sure. But it is one you CAN pull off. Valves should be adjusted every 3,000 miles so its something you need to learn so you can save money in the long run.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs850valve_adjust.pdf

If you have 2 hands and a 10mm and 12mm wrench, you CAN do this.

Also, you kinda have to. Tight valves will burn leaving you having to pull the head and replace valves :eek:
Click to expand...

guys i had a bike shop friend do the valves and the carbs completely taken apart i mean to the last screw!! my bike carbs still POPPING like a mother youknowwhat..... the bike is absolutely running like garbage and all of the settings are actually exactly how it was when it was running in top condition.... i thought it could be the weather etc... the bike absolutely lost everything it had going for it lol.... battery charged, plugs good, it just keeps popping and has no more power... could this be the points? thats my only thought left... i have a feeling im going to be parting this bike out soon without any hard feelings the way its been running!

edit: Could this be a time for new coils?? could that be whats making my carbs pop like crazy
 
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Were they synched afterwards? Make sure the idle and everything else is set.

Also, link goes to a baby crying.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Were they synched afterwards? Make sure the idle and everything else is set.

Also, link goes to a baby crying.
Click to expand...

haha yes they were synched, also the idle and everything was set, however i did find out that leaving it upright made the bike idle! and it starts up easier upright! lol there is plenty of gas in the tank but im not imagining things eaither... the bike was stumbling and almost dying and then my old buddy came over and propped the bike upright and the thing reved right up to 4 grand! full gas and everything
 
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