• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Chopper

  • Thread starter Thread starter PAULYBOY
  • Start date Start date
P

PAULYBOY

Guest
As some of you know, my son, and Andy from New York, and I descended on Doc's in Lancaster last weekend for the truck full o' parts. We brought home 2 frames complete with moter, wheels, etc. Now, my son has the idea of making an old school chopper by using the frame assembly and motor. He wants ape hanger bars, lower (shorter) rear springs and a shorter front fork assembly with a skinnier tire on it. Saddle type seat was suggested, and some other type of more teardrop tank also. Obviously we'd have to do this on the cheap. Anyone have any suggestions? Both frames are GS850 frames, one old enough to have the spoke wheels. Any input would be appreciated. He's already got a GS450T and he was thinking about using the tank off that bike, but told him it would be better to keep one bike running and known good, and use junkyard parts for the chopper. Whaddya think?
 
I can't give much technical I got a set of shortened shocks from a fellow GSR member were the coil had been cut. I look forward for some progress pics.
 
n1elkyfan said:
I can't give much technical I got a set of shortened shocks from a fellow GSR member were the coil had been cut. I look forward for some progress pics.
Click to expand...
The coils were cut AND the shock welded into place..lol...chop job for sure but they work like a charm for a semi rigid.
 
Looking at them I still don't understand why they welded the shocks. I see why they elded the coils so it wouldn't come apart but not the shock. But I love the way it looks know. \\:D/
 
Last edited:
n1elkyfan said:
Look at them I still don't understand why they welded the shocks. I see why they elded the coils so it wouldn't come apart but not the shock. But I love the way it looks know. \\:D/
Click to expand...
So the shock wouldnt move. the only recoil is coming from the spring..which by the way the dampning adjuster still works on FYI...did you get that PM i sent you ??
 
I know they did it so the shock wouldn't move I'm just wondering if you were to actually shorten your springs if you would have to weld the shocks. I got your pm.
 
i dont think the shock pistons were short enough to fit like theyve got them..i think they cut part of it out. i dunno..its a goofy set up, but it works..lol
 
3 inch difference...You like em? they workin out? Did ya clean em up cos they were kinda salted....
 
I haven't cleaned them up yet but they look alot better then my old ones.
 
Looked at the website for chopper underground. Way too much money and time, not to mention way above my skill level and/or tool collection. I was thinking at lunch today about this idea to make the tail end both rigid and lowered. Measuring the distance between the 2 mounting bolts for the rear shock with the bike fully gassed and the intended rider/victim aboard, I would then measure the clearance left between the top of the tire and the cross frame for the rear frame, the part that loops over the rear fender and is hidden beneath the original seat. Theoretically, the eyes are almost 12 inches apart. The clearnce for the tire is still almost 4 inches. Therefore, I'd substitute some rigid, but adjustable bar and socket assembly, not unlike a cars tie rod assembly, for the rear shocks. That way, I could lower the rear frame between 3 and 5 inches, with some adjustability. Removal of the center stand would be necessary, and a skid plate for the exhaust would be nice. Since that would make the rear of the bike squat, that would also adjust the rake angle relative to the ground, at the triple trees. Trial and error and 30 bucks worth of material, versus the hack and reweld with countless hours of adjustment, etc. Whaddya think?
 
I just wanted to throw this thought out as devil's advocate: Can you put a shaft drive in a permanently flexed condition (dropping the rear end and make it a hard tail), and expect it to hold up? Wont you wear out the joints in the shaft? They must have designed them to run xx% of the time at a relatively well-aligned position, with xx% allowed for compression of the rear end/alteration of the shaft's alignment.

Like I said...devil's advocate. You can return to your chopping now. :-D
 
Last edited:
Right after i wrote my last plug, I thought about that. I'd probably fashion some type of wedge to place under the rear motor mount to compensate for the change in angles. You're right, though. Even though the shaft has to be able to travel in an arc for suspension reasons, there's only a small angle acceptable for constant running. Now! howzabout that for GORILLA engineering?
 
Bravo, bravo! Nothing wrong with Gorilla engineering. At least you're a smart Gorilla.
 
PAULYBOY said:
Right after i wrote my last plug, I thought about that. I'd probably fashion some type of wedge to place under the rear motor mount to compensate for the change in angles. You're right, though. Even though the shaft has to be able to travel in an arc for suspension reasons, there's only a small angle acceptable for constant running. Now! howzabout that for GORILLA engineering?
Click to expand...
Might want to check the oil pickup locations, or the delivery ports or whatever...if you lean the engine in such a way that its not drawing enough oil or whatever, could spell trouble too... I dont know for sure, just thinkin...
 
PAULYBOY said:
Looked at the website for chopper underground. Way too much money and time, not to mention way above my skill level and/or tool collection. I was thinking at lunch today about this idea to make the tail end both rigid and lowered. Measuring the distance between the 2 mounting bolts for the rear shock with the bike fully gassed and the intended rider/victim aboard, I would then measure the clearance left between the top of the tire and the cross frame for the rear frame, the part that loops over the rear fender and is hidden beneath the original seat. Theoretically, the eyes are almost 12 inches apart. The clearnce for the tire is still almost 4 inches. Therefore, I'd substitute some rigid, but adjustable bar and socket assembly, not unlike a cars tie rod assembly, for the rear shocks. That way, I could lower the rear frame between 3 and 5 inches, with some adjustability. Removal of the center stand would be necessary, and a skid plate for the exhaust would be nice. Since that would make the rear of the bike squat, that would also adjust the rake angle relative to the ground, at the triple trees. Trial and error and 30 bucks worth of material, versus the hack and reweld with countless hours of adjustment, etc. Whaddya think?
Click to expand...

I just read through this fully. And I say bravo. An adjustable tie rod. Now why didn't I think of that?
 
So, I guess I'm startin to git the idea, huh? Kid, yiu got a good point. Sounds like you've done some motor work. True?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top