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Clueless electrical member testing R/R diode

Carter Turk said:
I'm not anywhere near as precise as you, hence all the electrical postings on my part.
Hopefully I can do the tests when the bike starts from a stand still.
Click to expand...

If the leg to ground tests passed with flying colors (at 5K RPM), on a brand new stator with no evidence of failure, but with reduced output (less than 80V at 5K RPM) then the rotor is probably compromised(not the stator).

This is conjecture, becuase I don't know the history, but it looks like that rotor was operating under severe conditions
 
posplayr said:
If the leg to ground tests passed with flying colors (at 5K RPM), on a brand new stator with no evidence of failure, but with reduced output (less than 80V at 5K RPM) then the rotor is probably compromised(not the stator).

This is conjecture, becuase I don't know the history, but it looks like that rotor was operating under severe conditions
Click to expand...

To be clear, the incomplete test #'s I posted recently were on a different bike, w/o the damaged rotor in picture. The bike I did the test on had a new Caltric stator (with questionable protection on the windings), with a questionable stock R/R. The R/R connections were soldered and a single point ground on the frame was used. The + and - were connected directly to the battery. The rotor was intact on this bike, aside from helicoils from previous S/C failures. I appreciate all the knowledge I don't have in understanding the persistent electrical issues I have with this bike.
 
Carter Turk said:
To be clear, the incomplete test #'s I posted recently were on a different bike, w/o the damaged rotor in picture. The bike I did the test on had a new Caltric stator (with questionable protection on the windings), with a questionable stock R/R. The R/R connections were soldered and a single point ground on the frame was used. The + and - were connected directly to the battery. The rotor was intact on this bike, aside from helicoils from previous S/C failures. I appreciate all the knowledge I don't have in understanding the persistent electrical issues I have with this bike.
Click to expand...

Saying "I don't know" is the greatest expression of "self awareness" as it represents the threshold to learning.
 
I never test the diodes. I've only tested the stator voltage, stator ohms, and if that is good (and it always has been), I go to the battery voltage when running. If it won't get a charged battery to around 14 volts, it needs a different one. I'm not saying that the other tests don't have value, but I mostly want to see if the R/R is working, and I'm less concerned about why.

By the way, the '78 1000E I gave to my nephew just had a R/R failure with an old Shindengen R/R, presumably from Duane. It was there when I bought the bike from Phaseman. It was putting out like 17 volts. I've used a bunch of old Gold Wing and Silver Wing regulators, with no failures until this (technically not mine any more, but still in my family).
 
850 Combat said:
I never test the diodes. I've only tested the stator voltage, stator ohms, and if that is good (and it always has been), I go to the battery voltage when running. If it won't get a charged battery to around 14 volts, it needs a different one. I'm not saying that the other tests don't have value, but I mostly want to see if the R/R is working, and I'm less concerned about why.

By the way, the '78 1000E I gave to my nephew just had a R/R failure with an old Shindengen R/R, presumably from Duane. It was there when I bought the bike from Phaseman. It was putting out like 17 volts. I've used a bunch of old Gold Wing and Silver Wing regulators, with no failures until this (technically not mine any more, but still in my family).
Click to expand...

I would say you have been lucky in that you have very few stator failures, which is why you have had success with SHUNT R/Rs.

The ohm meters tests are truly worthless in assessing whether a stator is good, although they can establish where a stator is bad. So you never have bad stators which is what I believe you have described before.
 
The sense connection probably came off or had a weak connection, that's the reason it went to 17.
 
duaneage said:
The sense connection probably came off or had a weak connection, that's the reason it went to 17.
Click to expand...

While it is possible, you can't claim that as truth unless you think that Honda R/R's CAN'T fail.
 
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