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clutch adjustment on 1980 gs1100e

  • Thread starter Thread starter JUSS10
  • Start date Start date
J

JUSS10

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i was told when i got my gs1100e yesterday that it has a barnett clutch in it and right now the clutch seems way out of adjustment. it feels good at the lever but when you drop in gear it lurches forward like the clutch isn't opening enough. i currently don't have a manual and was wondering if anyone can tell me how to adjust the clutch. i tried messing with the adjustment but it didn't seem to help. any input would be great! thanks
 
Barnett springs or complete Barnett fibers and steels? These are known as "grabby" clutches. Either get used to it or go back to stock.
 
Chef's right on. The Barnett clutch was meant for the drag strip. Do you know if the clutch springs were replaced? It sucks having to try to figure out what a PO did or didn't do but most of us have been down that road and know how it feels so hang in there. You do know that both ends of the clutch cable have adjustments on it, right? Try adjusting a bit of both and seeing if that helps but it sounds like maybe you need a bit stronger set of springs.
 
yeah i started by adjusting at the lever then maxed that out. next i moved the the crank case. i need to try and turn it out some more and see what happens. i have no clue on what the PO did. just said it had a barnett clutch in it. whether that's just plates, or springs, or a the whole basket i have no clue. I'll keep working on it.
 
well no matter how much i adjusted the clutch it would barely release. so i bought a used original that i am going to replace this barnett one with. can anyone let me know any torque specs i may encounter while doing this? any any tips would be great. thanks
 
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Careful with used. Do you have a digital caliper? Check the fibers, steels and springs before installing. I made the mistake of installing "drag bike springs as advertized on Ebay" but were just wasted stock springs.
Get a manual or ask for specs.
 
Fibers standard 2.9mm to 3.1mm limit 2.6mm
spring 38.5
steel standard 1.94 to 2.06
 
i do have a digi calipers. thanks for the specs that will be great. we'll see what it looks like when i get. it will be interesting to see when i pull the side cover off. does the cover just come off? i've never done engine work on a bike that uses a lever to actuate the clutch. everything I've done uses push rods.
 
It's so easy you'll be mad at yourself for overthinking it.
Just take off the lever the cable goes into (note the postion it's in take a pic) and take off the cover.
Get a gasket. I have a few extra if you want it.
 
do you have the torque specs on the clutch springs and the nut that holds the basket to the shaft?
 
JUSS10 said:
do you have the torque specs on the clutch springs and the nut that holds the basket to the shaft?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't remove the clutch hub but I would get an APE clutch hub nut. I probably put around 75 pounds on the hub nut and JUST snug on the clutch springs.
 
JUSS10 said:
do you have the torque specs on the clutch springs and the nut that holds the basket to the shaft?
Click to expand...


I can look those up tonight and send them to you.

Chef, what's the necessity of an Ape clutch hub nut? How is the Ape any different than the OEM ?

Thanks.
 
i to am curious about this APE clutch nut. i read in other posts that everyone says to get one but whats the reason?
 
[SIZE=+1]SUZUKI HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH HUB NUT

[/SIZE]CLUTCH HUB NUT
The factory Suzuki hub nuts are soft, allowing the threads to deform and come loose. This allows the hub assembly to wobble. The APE nuts are CNC machined from heat treated chrome moly steel. End of problem.
 SHN1150 Suzuki GS1100 / GS1150 $29.95
 
Perhaps this is the source of my slight clutch clatter. Just changed the springs and plates about a month ago. The hub nut was loose. Tightened it up and it was fine for a bit. Sounds like it's starting to clatter a bit at idle again.

Hmmm....easy fix if this is the problem.
 
well i tore the clutch apart tonight. the basket is really chewed up. each friction ring wore a grove in the basket hence the reason it would never release. so the basket has to come off. one dirrection does that 32mm nut have to be spun to get it off. does it loosen to the left like standard thread or is it the other way?
 
I have a pretty good clutch hub. The springs on the rear have some movement but I would call it in "good" condition.
 
Clutch sleeve hub nut: 24mm diameter, 36.0 - 50.5 lb-ft torque

Clutch spring bolt: 6mm diam, 8.0 - 9.5 lb-ft torque

Clutch release arm bolt: 6mm diam, 4.5 - 7.0 lb-ft torque


I don't have time this week but hopefully next week I'll scan in the entire torque table for you.

Don
 
JUSS10 said:
well i tore the clutch apart tonight. the basket is really chewed up. each friction ring wore a grove in the basket hence the reason it would never release. so the basket has to come off. one dirrection does that 32mm nut have to be spun to get it off. does it loosen to the left like standard thread or is it the other way?
Click to expand...

Yep, mine too. I was able to file out most of the grooves but its not %100. Its working but a little grabby when cold. Yes on the Nut. Counter clock - loose. Clock - tight

100_4535.jpg
 
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