• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Clutch doesn't disengage?

  • Thread starter Thread starter MK3Brent
  • Start date Start date
Flyboy said:
Check your cable routing and free play, make sure you have free play and the cable is not partially applying tension to and riding the clutch.
The most common causes of a slipping clutch would be due to fair wear and tear, either the friction plates worn down beyond service limits, or the clutch springs have have lost their tension and no longer clamp the clutch pack together tightly enough, resulting in slip.
However, at 17k miles I doubt one of these would be the cause, unless the clutch has seen some serious abuse, so check the cable first.
Have you added any sort of low friction additive such as "Prolong" or "Slick 50" to your oil?
If so, that is in all probability your problem, drain the oil, junk the clutch plates for new ones and start again, and don't ever put that stuff in your bike.
Click to expand...
Flyboy - I have no play in my clutch. I tried adjusting it out (more closed) where it meets the trans, but then it didn't shift right at all - wouldn't even go into neutral. Almost like the travel of the full pull isn't enough to fully disengage.

Thoughts?
 
bad cable/cable routed wrong with tight bends/after market clutch fibers/heavy duty springs and on and on.......
this will make you have to run zero free play for the bike not to pull when in gear and stopped and to shift correctly and can/will cause clutch slippage on a more powerful bike like yours.
can you verify the parts in your clutch as factory/stock?
most L model's end up with lower bars which makes the clutch cable way to long and you end up with tight bend's.
please post a picture of your bike if possible.
 
Wouldn't that be easily ruled out by measuring the amount of travel at the pivot bolt? (Throw-out to the pressure plate.)

For example, even if the cable were too long (which mine pretty much is), as long as the pivot point is still rotating say 1/4 turn, there should be sufficient travel to release the clutch.
 
MK3Brent said:
Wouldn't that be easily ruled out by measuring the amount of travel at the pivot bolt? (Throw-out to the pressure plate.)

For example, even if the cable were too long (which mine pretty much is), as long as the pivot point is still rotating say 1/4 turn, there should be sufficient travel to release the clutch.
Click to expand...

sorry i was responding to A-train's post.
 
So I measured all my drive plates I had, and checked my driven plates for warpage and was pretty surprised.

Even some of the good looking steel discs had some warping. I used a mirror to check, and while the burnt up ones had some issues, I had just as many clean looking ones.

With everything buttoned up, I started the bike and let it warm up and circulate the oil.

Holding the rear brake while on the center stand, I kicked it down into 1st and held the revs up and it was able slowly slip and become normal again.

A little more tension on the clutch cable, and it was even better.

I think the issue might be solved, so I'll have to get back at it tomorrow.

Will post results in case anyone else is searching for the same issue.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top