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Clutch Gear eating at Crank Throw - '82 1100

  • Thread starter Thread starter GoFast
  • Start date Start date
G

GoFast

Guest
Hello,
First post, though I've followed this site for years (used to be registered years ago).

This is a followup to a recent thread 'Do Oil Pumps Fail???' - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=102756 - although this is somewhat unrelated to that topic.

Upon inspecting my oil pump, I came across an unpleasant sight. With the pump removed, I noticed that the gear on the outer (primary) clutch hub, which turns the gear on the crankshaft, is somehow not aligned completely perfect. As a result, it has been chewing into one of the throws on the crank directly beside it. I noticed a high amount of metal shavings in the oil pan and particularly in the sump, which was preventing the pump from oiling the top end. This is obviously the major contributor to this debris.

When I removed the clutch basket, everything came out as described in the manual - there doesn't appear to be any spacers missing or anything out of order. I do know that the crank was welded many years ago, but don't assume that would explain the clutch gear and crank gear not aligning perfectly.

I'm hoping one of you GS gurus may have some insight into this situation. I realize this could be a major issue, but I'm sure somebody has some input as to the cause of this, and what I need to do to rectify it. I'm going to double check that all of the clutch pieces were in fact assembled properly.

I have pictures which I'll be sending off in a couple of hours. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

Graeme
 
Was the clutch hub nut tight when you removed it? These are notorious for being loose and the basket wobbling.
 
Very, very tight Mike! The way it should be. Took a lot of effort to get it off. I guess there's always a chance that the nut came loose with the previous owner and he never took the oil pan off or checked the sump/strainer, and then tightened the bolt after the fact??? Careless but you never know...

Here are a few pics....
 
Last edited:
another, showing the scoring on the crank throw and some light scoring on the inner wall...
 
Well 50 ft lbs is all it calls for. I used a new nut & lock washer with a dab of locktight #540 the last time I was in mine.
If you dont have wobble or side to side movement when properly installed then You are probably good. You'd also feel it in the clutch and hear some scary noises while riding
Another place to look is at the spring spacers or in the spring wells on the pressure plate. These being knarled up is a symptom of a loose hub nut also.

You can get overdrive oil pump gears from Van Sant enterprises here http://www.vansantent.com/ .You might be able to get a new nut and washer there also. If not APE has those here http://www.aperaceparts.com/
 
GoFast said:
When I removed the clutch basket, everything came out as described in the manual - there doesn't appear to be any spacers missing or anything out of order. I do know that the crank was welded many years ago, but don't assume that would explain the clutch gear and crank gear not aligning perfectly.

I'm hoping one of you GS gurus may have some insight into this situation. I realize this could be a major issue, but I'm sure somebody has some input as to the cause of this, and what I need to do to rectify it. I'm going to double check that all of the clutch pieces were in fact assembled properly.


Graeme
Click to expand...
In your first pic, why is the "oil slinger" washer still on the input shaft ??? It comes off before the clutch basket. It is also backwards, grooves face toward the motor. Goes this way.....Small plain washer first, then oil pump gear/bearing/spacer....Then the basket goes on with its bearing/spacer, followed by the "oil slinger" or large washer with the grooves facing the motor....like this...BadBillyB
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/assets/schematics/Suzuki/SU0062_023.gif
 
BadB, it's possible that I just threw that washer back on before I put the bike away at the end of the day a couple days ago...I drew myself a diagram when I removed each part from the clutch shaft, similar to your link, I'll double check that it matches up with that. I don't have access to the bike until Monday.

Thanks for the help guys...
 
GoFast said:
Hello,
First post, though I've followed this site for years (used to be registered years ago).

This is a followup to a recent thread 'Do Oil Pumps Fail???' - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=102756 - although this is somewhat unrelated to that topic.

Upon inspecting my oil pump, I came across an unpleasant sight. With the pump removed, I noticed that the gear on the outer (primary) clutch hub, which turns the gear on the crankshaft, is somehow not aligned completely perfect. As a result, it has been chewing into one of the throws on the crank directly beside it. I noticed a high amount of metal shavings in the oil pan and particularly in the sump, which was preventing the pump from oiling the top end. This is obviously the major contributor to this debris.

When I removed the clutch basket, everything came out as described in the manual - there doesn't appear to be any spacers missing or anything out of order. I do know that the crank was welded many years ago, but don't assume that would explain the clutch gear and crank gear not aligning perfectly.

I'm hoping one of you GS gurus may have some insight into this situation. I realize this could be a major issue, but I'm sure somebody has some input as to the cause of this, and what I need to do to rectify it. I'm going to double check that all of the clutch pieces were in fact assembled properly.

I have pictures which I'll be sending off in a couple of hours. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

Graeme
Click to expand...

Have a look at the large bronze thrust washer behind the clutch basket. If that washer is worn too thin, it will allow excessive clutch basket play. The bushing in the clutchbasket might also be worn out. Remove all the clutch springs, and plates, and rock the outer basket side to side, there should only be about .040" of play.
 
The same thing can happen by the ring gear flexing on the basket. Lay the clutch basket flat and see if you can push the ring back and fourth. The ring gear should be nice and tight up against the basket. Also how does the backing plate look?? they can bend and develope cracks too.

Also make sure you have all the hardware that goes on the shaft before the basket is installed, like the large thrust washer is on before the oil pump drive pinnon inner race is installed.

I broke my ring all apart and it did the same thing too and the bike still make a few low 6's passes in the 1/8 too.

gear1.jpg
 
The helical gear causes the clutch gear to get sucked into the crank cheek. That is why big power drag motors use straight cut gears on the clutch basket and crank.

You can prevent it by getting the clutch basket rebuilt using a heavy duty backing plate the helps prevent flex.
gorilla.jpg


http://gszone.biz/clutches.html
 
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