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clutch hub nut torque technique

  • Thread starter Thread starter Wheelbreak
  • Start date Start date
W

Wheelbreak

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So I have had excessive clutch noise for awhile now. I ordered the high performance clutch hub nut in case that was the problem. I took it all apart yesterday and sure enough the clutch hub nut was loose. I could move it easily with my fingers about a quarter inch.

any way I used an impact driver to remove it. When I put it back on I didn't know how much to tighten it up. The driver is rated at 300ft lbs and the manual says to tighten it 50. After getting everything back together I am about 90% sure I didn't tighten it to spec. because I was afraid of over tightening it. My question is. Is it okay? The other one was loose to the touch so at least it's snug now right? Also, there is a lock washer that won't allow it to loosen at all so I should be fine riding it right?

Any thoughts? What have people that didn't make or use a tool to hold the clutch in order to remove the bolt use to torque it down on reinstall?
 
Put the bike in gear, step on the rear brake and use a torque wrench
 
rap rap rap...done
your impact will not produce 300 foot pounds with the air supply you are using.
i have never torqued a hub nut in my life.
 
air gun for a couple of blats then flatten the locking washer to hold it... worked fine for the past who knows how many years
 
so u didnt pull the clutch off and check the spring on the back and actually housing/gear for looseness? bad bad Wheelbreak
 
Make sure the oil pump drive gear is fully engaged with the clutch before tightening up otherwise it will magically get loose again.
 
sparki said:
air gun for a couple of blats then flatten the locking washer to hold it... worked fine for the past who knows how many years
Click to expand...

Couple drops of red Loctite just in case.

Hit with the impact gun, and bend the tab over. It ain't going nowhere until you take it back apart.

Same thing with countersprocket nuts.
 
Brendan W said:
Make sure the oil pump drive gear is fully engaged with the clutch before tightening up otherwise it will magically get loose again.
Click to expand...


if the pump gear is not engaged with the basket....you will have direct drive when it's put into gear.
either it's engaged or not.
if the inner hub spins when the nut is tightened then the basket and gear are mated.
 
I've ridden it a few times and all seems well. I did let it brap brap brap a few times and it seemed at least snug. I think I'm okay, but I just wanted to check to be sure. The springs on the back seemed to have been dealt with by a PO. They were alternately loose and tight. As far as the clutch springs and plates go, they were within specs per manual and it was working properly so I just reinstalled. I didn't have a new gasket when I did it so I have to take it apart again to replace the old brittle one anyway so I can check it again in a few weeks. Thanks for the replies!
 
blowerbike said:
if the pump gear is not engaged with the basket....you will have direct drive when it's put into gear.
either it's engaged or not.
if the inner hub spins when the nut is tightened then the basket and gear are mated.
Click to expand...
I don't follow what you mean. I can be a bit slow on the uptake.:)
Mine had been tightened up and the lockwasher folded up neat and flat but the clutch had not engaged the pump drive. It ended up hopping in and out of engagement. The clutch worked ok but I was getting low oil pressure warnings on the overrun and leaning to the right at standstill. These I put down to the helical primary gear lifting the clutch when the drive changed direction and plain old gravity. Rolling on throttle I always had pressure. Opening the filler I could see the entire assembly moving out with the cable being pulled.
 
this was on your 850?
if so what i posted before applies to that model also.
i'm not sure how else to explain it any differently.:confused:
 
When using an air tool, I pay attention to the degrees of tightening...rap it just snug then an additional 1/8 turn or so. Critical stuff you might consider a torque wrench, tho...
 
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