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clutch lever ia hard as hell...

  • Thread starter Thread starter macthenoo
  • Start date Start date
M

macthenoo

Guest
Hi all,

my clutch lever is hard as hell to pull. the adjusters on both ends are fully wound in and the clutch operates fine, its just hard as hell to pull. I have no idea if the springs have been changed etc by the PO, or uprated etc.

Is there anything I can do to make it easier to pull in the lever? could it be a loob issue?

many thanks for your time...

Mac.
 
How new is the cable? :-k

Is is a STOCK Suzuki cable? :-k

Not sure why it is, but OEM Suzuki cables just seem to work better than aftermarket cables. :o

.
 
"Normally" this is the cable. Pull it off and inspect it. Does the inner stranded cable move very easily? While you are at it, check the strands at the ferule (the little barrel that fits into the bar lever). Are any of the strands broken? If they are replace the cable. If not, lube it. While the cable is out, check the lever movement. Does it move freely? If not, the lever bolt and nut on the bar are too tight. Reinstall everything and check again, let us know your results.
 
If the cable is in good condition and routed reasonably, then I would think the PO had put in heavy springs to overcome some clutch slip. My 850 was like that when I got it.

Stock springs are cheap. If you put them in, you may find you need new friction plates. Those are... less cheap.
 
I noticed that my "old cable" seemed fine moving it when it was not under load... but when I replaced the old cable with a new cable the clutch was WAY better when under load... and old cable behaves differently when not pulling anything... must be the sludge in the cable??
 
Dogma, if it is the friction plates, they can often be deglazed rather than replaced. Cost - clutch cover gasket and some wet-r-dry sandpaper.
But you make a good point on cable routing, it should be free of sharp turns and kinks. This can also be checked when it is being removed.
legaleli - almost a guarantee. Lube it well and keep it as a spare, just in case.
 
Dogma, if it is the friction plates, they can often be deglazed rather than replaced. Cost - clutch cover gasket and some wet-r-dry sandpaper.
But you make a good point on cable routing, it should be free of sharp turns and kinks. This can also be checked when it is being removed.
legaleli - almost a guarantee. Lube it well and keep it as a spare, just in case.

Heh. I tried sanding mine. It helped for about one ride. Maybe I should have sanded more off. New friction plates cured it.
 
Heh. I tried sanding mine. It helped for about one ride. Maybe I should have sanded more off. New friction plates cured it.
That is always possible. Glaze is shiny, and. well, glazed. But it does not always work. And it should be done correctly, using a sheet of glass to keep the plate and sandpaper completely flat, also the paper constantly wetted, new paper often, etc. Not much fun, but less expensive than going new. Just a suggestion, YMMV.
 
That is always possible. Glaze is shiny, and. well, glazed. But it does not always work. And it should be done correctly, using a sheet of glass to keep the plate and sandpaper completely flat, also the paper constantly wetted, new paper often, etc. Not much fun, but less expensive than going new. Just a suggestion, YMMV.
proper deglazing works well so lobg as your plates are within wear limits
I did min on silicon carbide wet sadn paper placed on a sheet of glass

was nice and flat and you could celarly see and fell the difference whn the glaaze was broken through then removed

OH good golly lube tge darned cable
plAIBN OLD NOTOR OIL in a balloon will do
let gravity do the work overnight
 
proper deglazing works well so lobg as your plates are within wear limits
I did min on silicon carbide wet sadn paper placed on a sheet of glass

was nice and flat and you could celarly see and fell the difference whn the glaaze was broken through then removed

OH good golly lube tge darned cable
plAIBN OLD NOTOR OIL in a balloon will do
let gravity do the work overnight
I suspect that either Calvin is feeling his oats tonight or his keyboard is broken....Translated -
Proper deglazing works well so long as your plates are within wear limits.
I did mine on silicon carbide wet sand paper placed on a sheet of glass.

Was nice and flat and you could certainly see and feel the difference when the glaze was broken through then removed.

Oh good golly lube the darned cable. Plain old motor oiil in a balloon will do. Let gravity do the work overnight.
 
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