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clutch not engaging

  • Thread starter Thread starter david
  • Start date Start date
D

david

Guest
i've got a 1981 GS1000G...
Very close to getting on the road,,,.
I'm finally down to the gear system and...
the clutch doesn't seem to engage. We disconected the cable at the gear box, turned the nob on top that should disengage any gears, and it still stays in gear. Could there be a hidden mystery inside the gear box that I'm waiting to uncover?? It seems like it's too easy to move from one position to the other. any thoughts,,,,,,,, before i dive in to the main gear box?
 
david said:
i've got a 1981 GS1000G...
Very close to getting on the road,,,.
I'm finally down to the gear system and...
the clutch doesn't seem to engage. We disconected the cable at the gear box, turned the nob on top that should disengage any gears, and it still stays in gear. Could there be a hidden mystery inside the gear box that I'm waiting to uncover?? It seems like it's too easy to move from one position to the other. any thoughts,,,,,,,, before i dive in to the main gear box?
Click to expand...

I'm confused as to your exact question. The "cable at the gear box" is your clutch cable. Underneath that cover is your clutch. When you pull your clutch lever in, and put your bike in 1st gear, what exactly happens?
 
With the bike in gear, and the clutch cable pulled, the bike still jumps when trying to start it.
I can put it in neutral and it starts and idles fine.
 
I guess the springs could be worn for the pressure plate if it's easy to turn the pushrod by hand. This would only make it jump less when putting it in gear.

Keep in mind that if it's an old clutch in a bike that has sat a while, the plates could be a little messy and need a few miles to clean themselves off. Until then you may get a little drag with cold oil and dirty clutch plates.

P.S. the clutch cable must be set exactly as the manual describes. If not it can do things you wouldn't expect. Such as, when the cable is adjusted way to tight, the clutch doesn't dis-engage enough when the lever is pulled. You must have the right amount of free play for the clutch to work correctly.
 
""I guess the springs could be worn for the pressure plate if it's easy to turn the pushrod by hand. This would only make it jump less when putting it in gear.""


Yes, the pushrod is very easy to turn by hand. And doesn't seem to have any effect from one position to the other. The bike still jumps upon trying to start when in gear. I don't think I should try to put it in gear when idling in neutral until I'm sure the clutch is working.
 
david said:
""I guess the springs could be worn for the pressure plate if it's easy to turn the pushrod by hand. This would only make it jump less when putting it in gear.""


Yes, the pushrod is very easy to turn by hand. And doesn't seem to have any effect from one position to the other. The bike still jumps upon trying to start when in gear. I don't think I should try to put it in gear when idling in neutral until I'm sure the clutch is working.
Click to expand...

Then something is wrong inside the clutch. You need to pull the cover for an inspection. Something is not allowing your clutch plates to disengage. Like Jethro commented old clutch plates can "fuse" together and not disengage from sitting.
 
Last edited:
Road_Clam said:
Then something is wrong inside the clutch. You need to pull the cover for an inspection. Something is not allowing your clutch plates to disengage. Like Jethro commented old clutch plates can "fuse" together and not engage from sitting.
Click to expand...


That's what i was kind of afraid of. Guess i'll need to get a new gasket on order then. thanks
 
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