M
MWrider
Guest
Ok, so I have the two bolts in the spacer, and I'm pulling. Then I pulled for another hour. Is there a trick to this or do I need a really large gorilla friend to pull this thing out?
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one bolt or screw and spin/pull at the same time...the oil may have a lock on it but it will come out unless the needle bearing cage has went south.
also steady the basket when doing as i said.
added:
get someone to rock the engine back and forth with a 19mm box end wrench on the ignition advance hex while you do what i said.
this is a simple task but...sheet happens some times.
also steady the basket when doing as i said.
added:
get someone to rock the engine back and forth with a 19mm box end wrench on the ignition advance hex while you do what i said.
this is a simple task but...sheet happens some times.
Last edited:
M
MWrider
Guest
Thanks blowerbike, spinning while pulling was the ticket. Did reveal some bad news though. On the larger spring, there is some play. It's not a tight fit in the basket. It's not addressed in the factory manual but my guess is replacement?
Also there is damage where I bottomed the screws out on the oil pump drive gear. DUMB move, and an $80 lesson if not reusable.
Also there is damage where I bottomed the screws out on the oil pump drive gear. DUMB move, and an $80 lesson if not reusable.
ouch!!!!
lesson learned....
these bikes do 2 things....
spin the alt. rotor and blow up the clutch basket.
do you ride like miss daisy?
never spin it close to red line?
never shift aggressively?
if you answered yes to the 1st question and no to the rest then you'll probably be ok.
but....
if so i think you may have fibbed a little bit
if you want to be 100% safe in the clutch explosion area...send off your basket and have an HD backing kit installed.
as far as the needle bearings you destroyed...these are quite common from 750-1150 16 valve engines.
i have mmmmaybe 40 of these bearings but you should be able to find some closer.
if you damaged the basket/oil pump gear...again no big deal and a very good interchange.
you may jump on ebay and find what you need from 5-10 bucks including the gear.
lesson learned....
these bikes do 2 things....
spin the alt. rotor and blow up the clutch basket.
do you ride like miss daisy?
never spin it close to red line?
never shift aggressively?
if you answered yes to the 1st question and no to the rest then you'll probably be ok.
but....
if so i think you may have fibbed a little bit
if you want to be 100% safe in the clutch explosion area...send off your basket and have an HD backing kit installed.
as far as the needle bearings you destroyed...these are quite common from 750-1150 16 valve engines.
i have mmmmaybe 40 of these bearings but you should be able to find some closer.
if you damaged the basket/oil pump gear...again no big deal and a very good interchange.
you may jump on ebay and find what you need from 5-10 bucks including the gear.
M
MWrider
Guest
I'll look into the HD kit. Any suggestions?
Also it looks like there are options from APE although that may be overkill for me.
And to answer your questions-
sometimes
sometimes
sometimes
Also it looks like there are options from APE although that may be overkill for me.
And to answer your questions-
sometimes
sometimes
sometimes
the HD backing kit really needs installed by a professional with the jigs and tig welding experience.
either that or buy a good used already modified HD basket for an 80-83 1100 16 valve.
either that or buy a good used already modified HD basket for an 80-83 1100 16 valve.
M
MWrider
Guest
I wouldn't attempt the install, I just meant somebody who provides a good service. I'll keep a lookout for a modified one for sale also.
rapidray on this site offer's the rebuild service if you don't find a used one.
then there's john pearson in ohio...many choices for sure.
i used to do them but time's have came and went..hehe
then there's john pearson in ohio...many choices for sure.
i used to do them but time's have came and went..hehe
M
MWrider
Guest
Got back to the clutch again. Got a fine new clutch basket. When I assembled everything, the primary driven gear spacer fits in looser. I had to really pull to get it out, and now it goes in with ease. I tried assembling everything and torquing the clutch hub nut, then disassembling and it was still a little loose. Then with the old basket, still loose. Is this an issue? The basket has hardly any lateral movement.
It was suggested I try a shim in front of the big primary driven gear spacer, but it looks like those weren't introduced until '83. Do those fit in the earlier assemblies?
Any thoughts?
It was suggested I try a shim in front of the big primary driven gear spacer, but it looks like those weren't introduced until '83. Do those fit in the earlier assemblies?
Any thoughts?
M
MWrider
Guest
BUMP! Still stuck on this, any insight would be very helpful-
M
MWrider
Guest
Its not gonna be stone dead stiff on the spline. A lightly detectable wiggle is ok..but not like its as loose as an old trucks worn out steering box..if that makes any sense. Button it up and ride it.
M
MWrider
Guest
Thanks Chuck. I was a little unsure. On the Triumph this would be a "tapered fit" on the spline (with a hammer). Then a special puller to remove everything..
On a Suzi the splines will be a very close fit but just a very little detectable slop is there. The outer baskets biggest problem is in the bearing. They last a long time but other than that its pretty fault free.
