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Clutch pull issue!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dink
  • Start date Start date
D

Dink

Guest
OK I am asking for some ideas as this has me stumped:shock:
Surprised aint ya!
My beloved Tractor has the stiffest clutch I have ever found on any bike.
This has me stumped due to the following facts.
1 All activation mechanisms;lever, cable,rack bearings, have been re-newed.
2 All plates and springs are new or very near new; and stock genuine parts.
3 Adjustment is spot on;1-2mm freeplay, cable lubed with engine oil.
4 Cable is routed as per original, and is correct according to factory manual routing guide.

I cant think of anything thing else I can do to "lighten" it up. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Dink
 
Does this have a hydraulic clutch?
If no see below.........


Disconnect the cable at the engine/clutch end and check to see if it is moving freely on its own.
Meaning without activating the clutch itself.
If it does move freely, what would be next?
The little armature it connects onto at the clutch housing.
Does this move freely? if so, what's next?

I had to do this to find out one of the clutch springs, internal of course, had "moved" it wasn't quite in place and was causing the clutch to feel as if it was binding.
follow the "map" of the cable eliminating one piece of the map at a time.
 
Dink said:
OK I am asking for some ideas as this has me stumped:shock:
Surprised aint ya!
My beloved Tractor has the stiffest clutch I have ever found on any bike.
This has me stumped due to the following facts.
1 All activation mechanisms;lever, cable,rack bearings, have been re-newed.
2 All plates and springs are new or very near new; and stock genuine parts.
3 Adjustment is spot on;1-2mm freeplay, cable lubed with engine oil.
4 Cable is routed as per original, and is correct according to factory manual routing guide.

I cant think of anything thing else I can do to "lighten" it up. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Dink
Click to expand...

Dink,
IMO the "suggested" method for routing the clutch cable is great in the aspect that the cable is routed cleanely underneath the tank, BUT it does add resistance to cable pull resulting from multiple tight cable angles. I personally have my cable routed away from the frame, and I have the cable guide (thats mounted on the v/c) attached to the outermost v/c hole. This makes a noticable difference in easier clutch pull. Try it, it does make a difference.
Rich
 
Thanks Rich I will try that, I aint to sure it will help much though, the pull is incredibly stiff.
Keith I have replaced everything, except the clutch basket,inner basket, and hat. I am trying to not have to spend the $400 a new basket will cost me.
Dink
 
One time I removed the lever which attaches to the rod on the case and when I put it back on I missed the proper location by 1 set of teeth and it pulled real hard. All I had to do was adjust it 1 set of teeth closer to the center of the engine and it got a bunch easier to pull. Something about the location of the pivot point versus the starting and stopping point and leverage and all that jaz.
 
I have tried all sorts of different positions for the actuator arm, and of cause the cable adjustments necessary to work with the changed position.
Another thread mentions havind an additional washer under the clutch hub nut, this leads me to wonder if this may now be the case with mine due to wear or some such.
Dink
 
Remove your clutch lever and inspect the pivot hole it may have elongated causing less leverage or binding. You could remove 2 of the clutch springs and see how it feels, also check your stack height. It may be higher than normal due to different fiber thickness causing higher spring pressure.

If that doesn't help give John Deer a call.......they can fix any tractor 8O
 
Clutch lever is brand new genuine; the last one snapped from fatigue, due to how stiff the clutch pull is. All plates, fibre and steel are new genuine as are the springs,and the cable, and the actuator bearings.
Dink
 
Here's a thought, take the clutch lever assembly off the handlebars and have a vise set up so that you can have the cable running a straight route with no bends and see how it feels. If the cable is straight and it is better you have drag in the cable sheath. Sounds like it would take some effort but it will either eliminate the cable as guilty or reinforce that it is guilty. If it doesn't get better the problem is in the clutch or bearings or pivots.
 
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