Clutch Push Rod Problems

[Legionnaire]

Well mine is 9" 14/16 around that, so it is definitely good enough size, I put it all back together torqued it all up and slid the clutch case on way easier than before and the cable wasn't tight at the loose settings which seemed all good.

So I buttoned it all up and adjusted it to be tighter and it got a little tighter, but when I got on it and put it in gear to push it and held in the clutch it acted the same as not having the clutch on it couldn't go anywhere.

When I tighten the crank case side with the signal generator it usually turns the gears would would that mess anything up?

I am so confused

 

[Guest]

What adjustments did you use ?

There's the handle.

The case screw where the cable screws into the case. Some don't have that though.

And under the little cover there is another adjustment. loosen that one until its not making contact.

Maybe someone bent the rod on purpose because they couldn't fix the original problem.


25 and 23 are the adjustment i would start with while the cable is completely slack.

 

[Legionnaire]

What adjustments did you use ?

There's the handle.

The case screw where the cable screws into the case. Some don't have that though.

And under the little cover there is another adjustment. loosen that one until its not making contact.

Maybe someone bent the rod on purpose because they couldn't fix the original problem.


25 and 23 are the adjustment i would start with while the cable is completely slack.

I didn't know you could adjust 25, but I ended up getting some progress, so I adjusted 23 a little better and no my push rod actually does what it's supposed to do, but let me put my thoughts out real quick...

So pretty you are in neutral you can push the bike around real nice and smooth with out resistance, right? And if you are in gear you can not. But if you are in gear with the clutch pulled in, it should be EXACTLY as smooth as it was in neutral right?

Because right now I will be in gear and can't move, which is good, then I will pull in the clutch and try to push the bike forward and it is a little harder than neutral, so the clutch isn't disengaging right? Before all this happened the bike was always a tad bit harder to push in gear with the clutch pulled in, just wondering if I should just tinker some more to get it all dialed in, or what?

Thanks a lot everyone!

 

[Guest]

Keep tinkering . Your close. They all have noticeable drag in gear.
Especially 1st
Might be better to set it so that you have 1/4"gap at the lever and th run it to get the clutch loosened up.
.
You can adjust it to your liking after.

These clutches have a short throw before they disengage.
A full lever pull is 5times what it takes to disengage so as long as
it engages and disengages its just fine tuning from there.

 

[Legionnaire]

Keep tinkering . Your close. They all have noticeable drag in gear.
Especially 1st
Might be better to set it so that you have 1/4"gap at the lever and th run it to get the clutch loosened up.
.
You can adjust it to your liking after.

These clutches have a short throw before they disengage.
A full lever pull is 5times what it takes to disengage so as long as
it engages and disengages its just fine tuning from there.

Oh okay I pretty much have 1/4" gap at the throttle, I am gonna finish up all my other stuff first and get some oil in my bike, because all the clutch tinkering can be done without draining oil.

This is off topic to my thread, but I got this throttle tube for my bars: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vinta...oe-style-heavy-duty-throttle-tube-01-005.html

Now my throttle doesn't snap back anymore, it seems like my cable is too slack... I am assuming my cable doesn't wrap around the new throttle tube as much as it used to, or I am routing like a nincompoop, lemme know if you guys have tried these throttle tubes, there really shouldn't be a "wrong" one right?