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clutch pushrod oil seal

  • Thread starter Thread starter p_s
  • Start date Start date
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p_s

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I just tore up the last one in the PNW but I have two coming on mules over the Oregon trail from the east coast any week now. Bikebandit vs. local dealer: who will win?

I know about using a soft touch with a mallet and the old seal and a socket. Should the outer circumference that sets into the crankcase be oiled, soapy-watered, or totally dry? Dry seemed to cause problems today. Soapy water makes sense to me, but I'd appreciate some advice.
 
My suggestion is loosen the screws around the seals (driveshaft & clutch) that hold crankcase halves together to release pressure and the seal will then go in easier as the hole that it has to go into has "sprung" a bit. A little "Ultra Blue" around the circumference of the seal and tighten everything back up again.
 
I just replaced this seal in my GS700 and it was a snap. In fact, when I removed the bracket that bolts over the top of the seal - the seal popped off with the bracket..SWEET!

for installation of the new one, I just put a light film of grease around the edge of the seal and pressed it in by hand. I gave it a couple of taps with a mallet and wooden dowel to make sure it was seated, bolted back everything and all has been well ever since.
 
Mark whiz said:
I just replaced this seal in my GS700 and it was a snap. In fact, when I removed the bracket that bolts over the top of the seal - the seal popped off with the bracket..SWEET!

for installation of the new one, I just put a light film of grease around the edge of the seal and pressed it in by hand. I gave it a couple of taps with a mallet and wooden dowel to make sure it was seated, bolted back everything and all has been well ever since.
Click to expand...
EXACTLY what Mark said is the way to do it! Do NOT loosen any casebolts, there is absolutely no reason to do so. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
EXACTLY what Mark said is the way to do it! Do NOT loosen any casebolts, there is absolutely no reason to do so. Ray.
Click to expand...
Okay, thanks all. My problem is that I replaced the seal twice and it continued to leak. The original pushrod was cruddy looking on one side, so I just sanded it and turned it around and it didn't help. I ordered a new pushrod & seal and screwed up the seal knocking it in dry, so I thought I'd ask here so I don't screw up another seal and lose another 2 weeks of riding. There doesn't seem to be any problem with the plunger assembly on the sprocket cover, so maybe I'll be good now.

It really didn't look like anything else is leaking, but I cleaned everything extra well this time so I'll know.

I'm 2500 miles away from my garage and it's definitely taking a toll.
 
What I like to use for that type of seal is the brush on permatex semi liquid gasket sealer. Usually gives it just enought to slip right in...
With the help of a 3 lb hammer. Sometimes a small hammer just will not do the job properly
 
I guess I'll keep my opinions to myself Ray. Anyway off to church now. Bye.
 
Is it leaking from the gartered lip?

You always have to use oil or grease (vaseline works as well---use it on automatics) on the lip to prevent a quick burn out and promote natural lubrication.

As far as the outer part of the seal, oil will work just fine. If you are having a leak issue from the outter circ, then some Permatex gasket sealer will do wonders.

I can't begin to tell anyone how many seals over the 10 years I installed as a wrench. Most were driven in with a large socket, except for the military axles, then I used a seal driver.

Find the biggest socket that will fit in the naked hole and use that drive in the seal. No need to use the old seal in between.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
I guess I'll keep my opinions to myself Ray. Anyway off to church now. Bye.
Click to expand...
No need to hide your opinions, Don. It was just a case of not NEEDING to do what you suggested. I hope you have LOTS of knowledge to share! :D!!! Ray.
 
It seemed to have been leaking around the inner lip, although now I am not certain. The sealing surface on the crankcase is in perfect shape. I had oiled the pushrod first. I'll try a touch of grease there. Well, maybe another seal will arrive by pack mule next week from the east coast and I can ride again. (Who takes 2 weeks? Maybe Suzuki parts distribution is a guy with a beat up truck who drives clockwise laps around the USA.)

Don: My understanding is that the crankcase halves are sealed only with silicone so I wouldn't want to disturb that and have to drop the engine.
 
p_s said:
Don: My understanding is that the crankcase halves are sealed only with silicone so I wouldn't want to disturb that and have to drop the engine.
Click to expand...

The Clymer Manual definitely says not to use silicon sealant on the crankcase half flange joints. Despite what the younger motorcyclist believes, silicon sealant is not the answer to all sealing situations.

The sealant to be used on these flanges is a non-hardening type (Suzuki Bond No. 4 or it's modern day equivalent ThreeBond 1194) which will allow a little movement when the bolts are loosened a turn or so to get the seals in and then the bolts are nipped up again. There are only two bolts concerned: a 6mm nut between the clutch and output shaft seals in the upper case half and an 8mm bolt to the rear of the outputshaft seal in the lower case half.

I loosened these nuts and bolts respectively and replaced the two gearbox output shaft seals and the clutch pushrod seal in the method I stated and had no problems whatsoever, and not had a leak to this day.

Bye from Oz
 
Bravo

Bravo

Suzuki_Don said:
The Clymer Manual definitely says not to use silicon sealant on the crankcase half flange joints. Despite what the younger motorcyclist believes, silicon sealant is not the answer to all sealing situations.

The sealant to be used on these flanges is a non-hardening type (Suzuki Bond No. 4 or it's modern day equivalent ThreeBond 1194) which will allow a little movement when the bolts are loosened a turn or so to get the seals in and then the bolts are nipped up again. There are only two bolts concerned: a 6mm nut between the clutch and output shaft seals in the upper case half and an 8mm bolt to the rear of the outputshaft seal in the lower case half.

I loosened these nuts and bolts respectively and replaced the two gearbox output shaft seals and the clutch pushrod seal in the method I stated and had no problems whatsoever, and not had a leak to this day.
Bye from Oz
Click to expand...

Well, the only thing that really counts is that it works properly...and your method obviously does. So....Good on 'yer, Mate!!!:-)
 
Suzuki_Don said:
The Clymer Manual definitely says not to use silicon sealant on the crankcase half flange joints. Despite what the younger motorcyclist believes, silicon sealant is not the answer to all sealing situations.
Click to expand...
Ah, I misread the Clymer manual then. (I haven't had to split the crankcase halves--I was just looking at how it was sealed.)

Anyways, I put in yet another seal last night, oiled on the outside, and went for a ride and it didn't leak. I'm going on a 30 mile ride now to a meeting place, and then doing 400 miles with some people from work if it hasn't leaked after 30 miles.

I'm bringing a crapload of tools as usual.
 
Good luck. Hope it doesn't leak and yoy have a nice trip with no problems.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
Good luck. Hope it doesn't leak and yoy have a nice trip with no problems.
Click to expand...
That seal didn't leak. The stator cover gasket is still leaking (that started a week ago, haven't gotten to it yet). Two of my riding buddies said I was getting blue smoke out the pipes when passing at high RPMs. But it was on and off, not persistent. I also get blue smoke sometimes when I start the bike and it's cold. Maybe it means valve seals this winter. :-? Although I kept looking in my mirrors and couldn't see anything.
 
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p_s said:
That seal didn't leak. The stator cover gasket is still leaking (that started a week ago, haven't gotten to it yet). Two of my riding buddies said I was getting blue smoke out the pipes when passing at high RPMs. But it was on and off, not persistent. I also get blue smoke sometimes when I start the bike and it's cold. Maybe it means valve seals this winter. :-? Although I kept looking in my mirrors and couldn't see anything.
Click to expand...

As long as its going well and passing others at high revs just keep riding it. Enjoy it until you have to work on it. I have my crankcases split at the present time and have sold my Norton, so have nothing to ride at the present time. I am really missing being able to go for a ride.
Cheers
Don
 
p_s said:
That seal didn't leak. The stator cover gasket is still leaking (that started a week ago, haven't gotten to it yet). Two of my riding buddies said I was getting blue smoke out the pipes when passing at high RPMs. But it was on and off, not persistent. I also get blue smoke sometimes when I start the bike and it's cold. Maybe it means valve seals this winter. :-? Although I kept looking in my mirrors and couldn't see anything.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, its been my experience that blue smoke under load is more often rings over valve seals. However the blue smoke on start up is more than likely seals. My 1100G puffs just the SLIGHTEST hint of blue on start up after sitting for a day or two (hasnt seen a day or two of sitting in a few weeks however.. :) ) So likely i have some seepage around the seals when they get dry from sitting. However, once she warms up and is off choke (all of one minute, or maybe TWO if she's been sitting a couple days) there is not even a hint of smoke. I bought a top end kit, just cause i needed a valve cover gasket, and i got a good deal on it, so i have seals to change. Maybe i do it over the winter, maybe not. At any rate, IF you're going to break it down to do the seals, and the rings are at all questionable, it would be in your best interests to do the rings as well since you've already got it apart. my .06 (adjusted for the crappy dollar :) )
 
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