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clutch question..

  • Thread starter Thread starter suzukidukiee
  • Start date Start date
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suzukidukiee

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81 GS 750...I was wondering the bike sometimes slips when you go WOT can i replace the disks only or do i have to do a full parts replacement? Im asking becuase alot of those parts dont look like they need to be replaced? I would appreciate any help thank you for your time.

Dustin
 
Typically replace the discs, that is, the disc with the friction material on them. Typically dont replace the other discs that are all metal, although they do have a service limits for how much they can wear down before should be replaced. Other concern is if the notches/splines are worn on those metal discs. Another concern is if the splines in the basket have notches worn in them.

And the springs should be checked. They have a service limit that is specified in "free length". Take out the springs (which you have to when replacing the discs anyway) and measure thier length.

Somebody with a manual for 750 will have to say what the service linit specs are.

My experience is that when you notice the clutch slipping, its the friction material is worn down and the material is also hardened so it doesnt grab like it should. And by then the springs are perrty close to needing replaced anyway. When you replace the springs and discs it will improve the operation of the clutch so much that you almost have to learn to operate the bike all over again. It was slipping much more than you noticed.
 
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If you happen to be a bit strapped for cash, you can try changing the springs first. I found that when I changed the clutch on my '84 Kawasaki Voyager. It would slip if I gave it enough gas to pass somebody. :oops: I measured the plates and the springs. The plates showed very little wear, the springs were just above the service limit, but I changed them both anyway, because I already had the parts and the bike was already apart.

My 650 book shows 8 plates, yours might be different. I also show 6 springs. For my Kaw, the plates were about $12 each, the springs were only about $6. $96 or $36 (or $132 for all), plus about $10 or 12 for a gasket.


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Damnit i failed..lol is there some magic words or something to get the clutch plate off? I tried everything and have managed to strip one bolt already...what am i going to do?
 
Are you trying to the cover off? You need to get an impact driver for those phillip head crankcase cover bolts and replace them with allen heads.
Where are you at in the central valley?
 
Visalia,..well my buddie just happened to have a perfect fit phillips screw head. i was able to break all but three loose. those will be drilled and taken off with some channelocks.Man ill tell ya i wasnt expecting it to be that hard..lol
 
What I have done while waiting for parts is machine up some more spacers that go on the clutch spring bolts (6 aluminuum spacers that fit inside the springs) that are 1 mm shorter than the origionals. Don't shorten the origionals though as you will need them later. Puts a bit more tension onto the clutch pack and sorts any slippage problems out. Works well on the 1100 and is only a temporary measure though.
 
Yeah i was thinking of something like that too i may give it a try when i decide to take the plate back off. I put new oil in it soo now i might as well ride her for awhile..lol
 
Usually all you need is new OEM springs -- unless you're drag racing regularly, the clutches last nearly forever, but the springs sag badly after a couple of decades.

You don't need heavy-duty aftermarket springs -- just new springs from Suzuki.
 
suzukidukiee said:
81 GS 750...I was wondering the bike sometimes slips when you go WOT can i replace the disks only or do i have to do a full parts replacement? Im asking becuase alot of those parts dont look like they need to be replaced? I would appreciate any help thank you for your time.

Dustin
Click to expand...

When I first aquired my 1100, I would experience a very abrupt rpm increase and over-rev above 8000 rpm's. It was pretty obvious I was ready for a clutch. I ordered Barnett plates, and OEM Suzuki springs. After my clutch was dissasembled for tolerence inspection I realized my plates were right within spec., however my clutch springs were not. My springs were shot, and lost a lot of "free height" (as compared to new springs). The new OE springs were about .250" taller in height. I also realized the thick grooved bronze thrust washer located behind the primary basket was worn out too. So to answer your question, mic up the thickness of your clutch plates, as they might be ok. The clutch plates will cost about $90, the springs about $30.
 
OK woot woot,im going to call our local suzuki place today and hopefully they wont charge me an arm and a leg for em...becuase i found the springs for like $.80 online but i dont want to waite for the shipping.
 
I ordered the EBC clutch kit and springs from Chaparral Motorsports. The clutch kit (friction plates) was $75 and the springs $6. The springs are 10% stiffer than standard, which is no problem for me. The clutch works very well, engages smoothly and grips like a pit bull.:)
 
Well i picked up the springs for 1.20 ea, and i went to my local hardware store and got the same cover bolt's only hex head! soo after the bike cools down a bit ill start.
 
Ok i just finished and after adjusting the clutch cable i took it for a ride. I started in first and gunned it shifted to second and up high it slipped just a little, so i slowed down and flipped a u turn and went from first again only this time it didnt slip and i was like holy ****!! second gear is awsome now no slippage at all!

thanks for all the help everyone!!
 
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