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Clutch still slipping slightly.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Replaced springs , drive plates and driven plates. It is better but still slipping a little in all gears??? I have run the gamut of cable adjustments. There was an extra steel plate in the kit, should I add it. Where would it go?? Can you end with a steel plate?? I did not take out the steel plate that is locked in with the wire is that an issue?
1982 750tz
1st gear @ 25mph at 8000 rpm
2nd gear @ 40mph at 8000
3rd gear @ 50 mph at 8000
4th gear @ 60 mph at 8000
5th gear @ 70 to 75 mph at 8000
 
Sparks,

This is a bit of a long-shot, but here goes: If you are running a friction-modified oil, that's going to cause the clutch to slip for sure...

Mike.
 
I am using valvoline 20w - 50. It is not synthetic but I am not sure what you mean by "friction modified"
 
Friction modified oil has special additives that can play havoc with the 'wet' (ie. oil-bathed) clutches that reside in our GS engines.

I don't think your Valvoline is a friction-modified oil, so we can safely discount this as the cause of your problem.

Are you sure you have the plates, etc. installed in the right order? Ideally you need to peek at a microfiche/ manual illustration that covers your exact model, as Suzuki changed and tweaked many things in the clutch department over the years. Some of these design changes were minor, but some were major, such as an extra steel 'driven' plate in some models.

So, does anyone out there have a microfiche illustration available for the 1982 750tz?

Mike.
 
08.gif
 
Yes! it's worth a look at the oil,all the steel plates with the chamfer in the same direction,is the clutch cable new, double check clutch adjustment allways start from the motor side.
Not shure what bike you have got sparks ,is the clutch cable at less than 90 degrees in relation to the clutch arm on the engine.
 
I have reviewed that picture at least 50 times making sure that everything was right (it is). The cable is new and I have made the adjustments in small increments starting with everything completly slack. I ask about the extra plate thing because a Harley riding friend of mine felt that would be the solution just put it in at the end and have more clutch. (not that a harley is a bad thing but he tends to just believe extra stuff is good and the answer to every problem) I am beginning to think that the clutch may not be slipping and it is something else responsible for the lack of total power. In checking the plugs last night (on a whim) Plug #1 was black did not smell of gas but slightly wettish, plugs # 2,3 & 4 are all running very slightly lean brownish white. Could this be my issue having a slight problem in #1 is this ring related or valve related ( I am relatively stupid at the mechanics side of things) :oops: So please bear with me, I bought the bike to help me in this area.
 
Start first by doing a complete tune up , adjust valves, change plug's, clean or replace air filter, balance carby's.See what happen's then!
Take your time, ask question's if need be.
 
Well then it is down to adjusting the valves, I have completely rebuilt the air system to stock and had the carbs rebuilt and tuned, at that point the plugs were also swapped out for new. I was just hoping to escape with the minor stuff.
 
Oh! and check for any air leak's between the carby's and the head.
 
Brand new boots between the carbs and the head sprayed water mist but already new they were sealed up pretty good so no effect. The bike has 7 steel plates and 8 fiber plates. That is not counting the steel plate in the back of the basket that is held in by a wire clip. so when replacing I started with fiber and ended with fiber but there were 8 steel plates in the kit that was why I asked should I put it in and is it okay to end with the steel as a friend suggested. I thought the plate may have been in case I was pulling the basket and removing the clipped in plate also.
 
sparks said:
I I am beginning to think that the clutch may not be slipping and it is something else responsible for the lack of total power. .
Click to expand...

What do you mean by the "lack of total power"?

The simplest test of clutch slippage is to hold BOTH brakes on, open the throttle slightly, and slowly engage the clutch.

Does the engine immediately bog down and want to stall?

While still holding the brakes on, if you open the throttle a bit more, will the RPMs stay constant or rise, or will the engine continue to bog down?


If it is bogging down each time, you do not have a major problem with
the clutch.

You install the plates as per the diagram. If you got an extra metal one in the package, set it aside for later use as a coaster.
 
#1 seems to have a problem. Is that pipe warming up? (wet your fingers and quickly tap the pipe, check the others too). It may be oil fouled. Put in a new plug and recheck the heat. If that plug gets it running right, how long does it last until it fouls again? Having rebuilt the carbs is no guarantee, something could have been overlooked or done wrong (don't ask me how I know this).
 
It is warming up and really is just as hot as the other three. It doesn't foul yet, but I don't think it is running rich I think it is more like oil fouling. Would this be a ring issue and would that account for the total lack of speed . In thinking more about the clutch it is not behaving like it was before. Like starting out in 2nd or 3rd it is really like starting out in those gears before it was like 1st.
 
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