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Clutchless shifting: am i going to kill my tranny?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
related idea but possibly problem?

related idea but possibly problem?

on my bike i've begun noticing that i can shift up and down if i'm easy on wringing that right ear when i'm ready to do it. i noted it i don't remember the circumstance, but it's only slightly more difficult than with the clutch. i only begin to get some power to the rear when i'm less than 1/2 and more like 1/4 inch (15-5mm) from all the way out on the lever. is this something wrong? it's the way the bike has been since i got it. it only takes minimal movement of the clutch lever to release power for shifting.
if it's needing adjustment, can someoen direct me to some plain english understandable directions on how to do it. so far i ain't been able to get a haynes on my bike. even jcwhitney says the one they have listed don't werk for me (guess it ain't hooked on phonics) anywho. any ideas?
 
Clutces are very good for stopping and starting bikes, having done it with a broken clutch cabe using the strarter motor to get going!

If you do full throttle clutchess shifts I don't think I would want to keep the bike long term......ok for people chnaging bikes all the time.

With care clutchless shifts can be easily made. I do it sometime just to make sure I am riding smoothly, but out of habit use the clutch
 
Simon Waters said:
Ron, the forest nymphs got rather "toasty" in Colorado this year! :twisted:

No doubt at all. One nymph, in particular, seems to have gotten her buns toasted both before and after she was caught!
 
SLOWPOKE said:
CAN I DO THE CUTTING WITHOUT TAKING THE ENGINE APART(SPLITTING THE CASES) I MEAN JUST BY DROPPING THE OIL PAN))
You do this when you get your crank welded. While won't try to stop you from taking a Dremel and grinding away the ribs, you may want to pull the engine and split the case after to clean out the mess you made.
 
lecroy said:
SLOWPOKE said:
CAN I DO THE CUTTING WITHOUT TAKING THE ENGINE APART(SPLITTING THE CASES) I MEAN JUST BY DROPPING THE OIL PAN))
You do this when you get your crank welded. While won't try to stop you from taking a Dremel and grinding away the ribs, you may want to pull the engine and split the case after to clean out the mess you made.
After this mod do the owners usually put on engine braces to compensate for any loss of strength--and thanks for continuing to answer my questions
 
"After this mod do the owners usually put on engine braces to compensate for any loss of strength"

Good question. The only build up I have ever put in was around the output drive shaft. In my own 83 engines, this has proven to be the weak point in the block. I also try to round out any sharp edges and the cases are held together with a much stronger set of studs. The same is true for the top end. Those tiny things they use from the factory like to really stretch. And it's not good to have the welded crank floating around between the case halfs. Or anything else for that matter.
 
It sounds like the standard engine can take a lot of abuse in dragging etc.

As a road engine they are like a stone axe considering not everyoen has looked after them....
 
What I do is hold pressure up with my toe, and blip the throttle. It is actually easier when you are going balls out.

If you miss gears often, it could round off the dogs, but I have mine undercut to help prevent that.
 
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