Cold weather wont start GS1000G

[skizm]

So while attempting to work on my charging system today (which works but not as well as it should) I tried to start my bike in 30 degree weather and it just cranks and doesn't ignite. After cranking for a little while I get a POOMP noise as if a cylinder ignited but the next one doesn't fire and it doesn't start. So my question is does this have to do with the charging system, or is it likely a problem with the ignition? (or something else entirely) This is a problem that the bike has had since I bought it and only ever shows itself when it is less than 40 outside. I looked at the ignition coils on bikebandit but they only seem to have one of the two and it is about $100 so hopefully it is not the ignition coils.

 

[Guest]

Pull the plugs and check for healthy spark and fuel on the plugs. If no fuel you may need to prime the float bowls.

 

[jwhelan65]

Mine is acting the same way except that it is 70 degrees here... I have narrowed my down to a valve adjustment that I have yet to do.

 

[skizm]

It does spark but it isn't as much of a spark as I would think (it may be enough I need to check it when it is actually running as well as when it is not) Right now it looks like about 10X what a strong static zap looks like. I have no idea how to test the valves.

 

[officerbill]

When my 850 wouldn't start cold, I pondered and wondered and asked the same questions. I opened up the pilot screws a 1/4 turn and what a difference that made. New trick (to me) is to set the petcock to prime wait a few seconds before turning it over. I always have the advantage of the good ole kick start too, but if there isn't enough battery to turn the engine fast enough I don't think it'll start either.
Does anyone have any data on cold fuel (30 degrees and colder) not vaporising as fast as warm fuel and causing the engine not to run as well?
Bill

 

[Guest]

Happened to me as well . I found that when really cold , lead acid batteries don't give the "punch" that they do when warmer . Replaced it with an AGM battery and have had no problems since . Cheers , Simon .

 

[waterman]

Ambient temperature will negatively affect most aspects of starting our motorcycles. Cold oil is thicker, gasoline is not as volatile, batteries produce less power, carburetion is set for higher temps. Couple this with a motor that may not been in perfect tune and it adds up to a no start situation. Likewise, if it has not run for a week, it may be more difficult to start anyways. Old gas in carb may have evaporated and left less than ideal gas quality which won't easily ignite. I have seen where gas dumped from a carb will not even catch fire when lit with a match.

In my experience, you can work around these if necessary. A larger car battery will provide extra rpms to starter motor and overcome weakish spark and higher viscosity oil. A portable heater aimed at engine will also help. Some people have used light bulbs to keep engine warm. When I was dependent on my single cylinder 650cc KLX for transport, I had developed a ritual that I used to get it to start; turn fuel on, tilt bike left and right to get fuel to almost overflow carb, crank over for a short while on full choke and then wait about 30 seconds and crank again. Usually this would fire it off. If not then I would blow air into carb vent to push more gas into mixture. Finally, if none of these would get it to run, then the dreaded push start.

I have also found that sometimes a flooded engine will rapidly start if you replace the wet spark plugs with dry plugs. Thankfully, our four cylinder bikes will run on 3 or even 2 cylinders. Lot easier to deal with then a large cold single.

 

[skizm]

Thanks for the info, It sounds like all these systems are interdependent on getting the bike to start in cold weather. I am going to keep working on the charging system and balancing the carbs and see if that helps at all and then start messing with the ignition coil if it still doesn't work.

Has anyone used one of these stators? http://www.electrosport.com/street/street-model-products-listing-street_59750.php

I may take the idea of a bigger battery too but that involves cutting out a custom welded battery box and welding a bigger one .

Last summer I was riding up in the mountains and stopped and the temperature dropped below about 40 and the bike decided it no longer wanted to start (which is when I first noticed this). My solution then was to put it in second gear and spin the engine all the way down the side of the mountain until it started.

 

[tkent02]

Thanks for the info, It sounds like all these systems are interdependent on getting the bike to start in cold weather. I am going to keep working on the charging system and balancing the carbs and see if that helps at all and then start messing with the ignition coil if it still doesn't work.

Has anyone used one of these stators? http://www.electrosport.com/street/street-model-products-listing-street_59750.php

I may take the idea of a bigger battery too but that involves cutting out a custom welded battery box and welding a bigger one .

Last summer I was riding up in the mountains and stopped and the temperature dropped below about 40 and the bike decided it no longer wanted to start (which is when I first noticed this). My solution then was to put it in second gear and spin the engine all the way down the side of the mountain until it started.

You don't need a bigger battery or a different stator, if everything else is working well the stock battery will fire it up almost instantly even in extremely cold temperatures. Just go through the bike one thing at a time, do it all.
Charging system and other wiring connections, carburetors, ignitons, valve clearances, do all of it.

 

[Larry D]

You don't need a bigger battery or a different stator, if everything else is working well the stock battery will fire it up almost instantly even in extremely cold temperatures. Just go through the bike one thing at a time, do it all.
Charging system and other wiring connections, carburetors, ignitons, valve clearances, do all of it.

Very true. I've started...and rode my bike in temperatures well below freezing. No problems. These bikes aren't "cold-blooded", I hear that stuff all the time. The problem is that the required maintenace has not be done. Soon, one minor issue becomes two, three, etc.....

Tackle one problem at a time. You'll be riding happy and much safer.

 

[skizm]

The idea of a "cold blooded" bike seemed a bit fishy to me since it isn't hard for it to drop down to pretty low temperatures in the mountains even in the summer and the bike needs to be able to work then too. However I know there is something wrong with the charging system since it only gets up to 13V at 4000 rpm which is why I asked about the stator (I still need to do some more tests and see if it is the stator or the rectifier). Also it does not have the stock battery in it, it is a little walmart atv battery.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. skizm,

You hit the nail on the head when you said "these systems are interdependent". Go through your "mega-welcome" again and pay attention to the maintenance lists. They include, but are not limited to, cleaning carbs, adjusting valves, sealing air intake system, and if your spark is not strong enough - perhaps a coil relay mod is in order. But you can usually improve the spark and overall electrical health of your bike by cleaning and checking every electrical connection and ground on the entire wiring harness - don't forget the fuse box. You'll find lots of information about these tasks on my website. Please visit as often as you like. You can save the PDF files to your computer so that you have a copy handy. Even in sub-40 degree weather, my bike starts with a single touch of the button. Keep us informed. Good luck.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[skizm]

So after poking around at the wiring harness today I found that the signal generator may be the source of the problem. The clymer manual I have says that it should measure about 360 ohms when disconnected from everything and it seems to read anywhere from 2 to 5 mega ohms so I think that may be the next thing I try. Does this seem like something that could be causing a weak spark?

The piece I need seems to be the signal generator assembly which is 170$ from bike bandit or 62$ from xtreme powersports.

Thanks for the help