Colour of the stator wires on an 82 750 Kat

[spyug]

I am trying to get the wiring harness into the project bike in an effort to fire it up before year end

I was really confused when looking at the wiring diagram and trying to figure where the wires from the stator went. I know they go to the R/R but the colours (brown, grey and beige)didn't match up with any diagram. Well imagine my surprise when I peel back the covering and find the connectors had been soldered on. But my confusion continues.

The wires coming from the stator on mine are white with green tracer, yellow and white with blue tracer. Now all the diagrams I look at call for the white/green tracer to be green/white tracer. The connecting wire in the harness is green/white tracer.

So my questions are: Does it sound like my white/green should actually have been green/white and if i go ahead and join this to green/white coming from the harness am I going to fry anything if its the wrong connection.

Sorry if this is confusing but it is to me too.

Any comments are, as always, appreciated.

Cheers,
Spyug

 

[Nessism]

white with green tracer, yellow and white with blue tracer are correct for the stator wires. I suggest wiring directly into the R/R and bypassing the factory wiring which uses a stupid out and back loop to the hand control - which can overheat and burn.

 

[850 Combat]

The three stator wires are interchangeable. It does not matter which is which.

 

[Steve]

The three stator wires are interchangeable. It does not matter which is which.

Yep. :-\\\

Ya gotta remember just TWO things here:
1. Electrons are color blind, they can't tell what color wires they are running through.
2. It's DARK inside those wires, they couldn't see the color anyway.

Besides, if you had an aftermarket stator, you would have one heck of a time sorting out which yellow wire to connect to the white with green tracer, etc.

.

 

[tfb]

It's one of the great enduring mysteries of Suzuki wiring: why they had all these fancy colour-coded wires for the 3 wires which have the same output.

 

[spyug]

I suggest wiring directly into the R/R and bypassing the factory wiring which uses a stupid out and back loop to the hand control - which can overheat and burn.

How exactly would you go about that? Would it mean changing the R/R to one with a third connection already wired as the stock one only has the two leads yellow and white/blue.

I'm always leery about these things as I hate to fry anything.

Thanks for all the input also guys.

Cheers,
spyug

 

[Nessism]

How exactly would you go about that? Would it mean changing the R/R to one with a third connection already wired as the stock one only has the two leads yellow and white/blue.

I'm always leery about these things as I hate to fry anything.

Thanks for all the input also guys.

Cheers,
spyug

All R/R's have three inputs, just feed your stator wires straight in. You will have to cut the wires and either solder or get some crimp-on terminal ends.

 

[Steve]

How exactly would you go about that? Would it mean changing the R/R to one with a third connection already wired as the stock one only has the two leads yellow and white/blue.

I'm always leery about these things as I hate to fry anything.

Thanks for all the input also guys.

Cheers,
spyug

Really not much to change, there. Your stator (stock or aftermarket) will have three wires coming out of it. In the stock configuration, two of them go directly to the R/R, the third one disappears into the main wiring harness. There is another wire that comes out of the main wiring harness, then goes to the third input of the R/R. Simply disconnect the third stator wire from the main harness, disconnect the third R/R input from the main harness, connect the stator wire to the R/R input. All the connectors match, the wire lengths match (the colors don't match, but electrons are color-blind), so there is no problem doing this.

.

 

[spyug]

Sorry guys but I'm as thick as a brick on this stuff.

When I look at my R/R it has a yellow lead, white with blue tracer, white with red tracer, red and black with white (ground of course). The white with red seems to go into a white with red that goes into the harness. Is it this lead that I should plumb into and if I do should I not plug it into the harness? Problem as i see it with that is that the white/red goes to the handlebar controls and is part of the lighting circuit so I don't see how you can leave that out.

Man this is unecessarily confusing.

Thanks for the help guys.

spyug

 

[Nessism]

Sorry guys but I'm as thick as a brick on this stuff.

When I look at my R/R it has a yellow lead, white with blue tracer, white with red tracer, red and black with white (ground of course). The white with red seems to go into a white with red that goes into the harness. Is it this lead that I should plumb into and if I do should I not plug it into the harness? Problem as i see it with that is that the white/red goes to the handlebar controls and is part of the lighting circuit so I don't see how you can leave that out.

Man this is unecessarily confusing.

Thanks for the help guys.

spyug

Trace that wire going to the hand control, you will see that as soon as it gets to the plug on the control it turns around and comes right back - thus a wasted trip (for the US model anyway). That wire sometimes overheats and melts down which is a real waste. Check this thread for more info... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=151060

 

[Steve]

If you look real carefully at that picture, you will see that the looped white/red wire goes back to a white wire with a green tracer.
(You can just barely see the green tracer to the right of the thumb.) That white/green wire is the one that goes back down to the R/R.

Now, for the steps that you need to do:

1. Break the connection of the white/red wire before it goes into the harness.
2. Break the connection of the white/green wire where it comes out of the harness.
3. Connect the white/red stator wire to the white/green R/R wire.
4. Measure your charging output to see if it has improved.
5. RIDE.

Now if that is not clear enough, I'm afraid you just need to put down the tools, back off and just hand your credit card to your local mechanic. .

 

[spyug]

The more I look at this the more confusing it gets. I agree with you that the wiring diagram on Cliff's site for the SZ shows the white/red becoming white/ green at the handlebar. In my manual, it shows both those entering the right handlebar control and coming in contact with a switch for "lights".

I just dissassembled the control and sure enough thats how it goes. The wires are soldered to some brass contact strips that would be connected when the light switch slider is moved into position.

So that seems to put me back to square one. I don't know now what to join the white/green from the stator to as the only thing available seems to be a green with white tracer coming from the harness.

I don't understand why this has to be so difficult. Just have three wires in and one out with a groundlead like every other R/R.

thanks for all the help guys.

cheers,
Spyug.

 

[posplayr]

If you look real carefully at that picture, you will see that the looped white/red wire goes back to a white wire with a green tracer.
(You can just barely see the green tracer to the right of the thumb.) That white/green wire is the one that goes back down to the R/R.
Now, for the steps that you need to do:

1. Break the connection of the white/red wire before it goes into the harness.
2. Break the connection of the white/green wire where it comes out of the harness.
3. Connect the white/red stator wire to the white/green R/R wire.
4. Measure your charging output to see if it has improved.
5. RIDE.

Now if that is not clear enough, I'm afraid you just need to put down the tools, back off and just hand your credit card to your local mechanic. .

I'm a little confused. On my ED, that connector is in the headlamp bucket. Don't most of U guys just remove the connector at the end of the R/R?

Having just done this day before yesterday on an ED parts bike Cheff and I got running yesterday, it can be a little confusing as after cutting all the wires off both sides of the male and female R/R connectors there seems to be too many wires .

Anyway, after looking for a moment it is very simple:

• I chased down the 3 wire harness coming from the stator in the W/R, Y and W/B; snipped off it's bullet connectors and soldered those three right into the R/R.

• As mentioned for the n'th time, the 5 wire R/R will have a RED and Black wire which are the output side of the R/R. Connect your stator harness wires (W/R,Y,W/B) into the remaining three wires on the R/R (directly; I like twist and solder witout even spades).

• When done you will be left with several open wires (6 IIRC); you can group them or not they should all be unpowered. There was never any reason to strip any of them back.

Hopefully this was not even more confusing

 

[spyug]

Thanks guys but it now seems clear to me that I don't have the same wiring layout as those that you are referring to. There is no loop back of white/red to white green as you show. There is ( in the right handlebar control) a sliding switch marked "lights" that will connect the white green to white/red when moved to the on position. This is part of the confusion for me. If one leg of the stator is pushing voltage ( and AC at that) down to the handlebar control and thence down to the R/R it wouldn't work if the switch were in the off position. It makes no sense to me.

I've been pondering this all day and I just don't follow the logic. It would make more sense to join the white/green and white/red directly as you suggested ad nauseum ( i.e. stator to R/R) but what then happens at that silly switch and how can the damned thing do anything if it was getting AC juice from the stator anyway?

I'm sure there is something simple here that I'm missing but the light bulb hasn't gone off yet.

Thanks for hanging in there with me.

Spyug

 

[posplayr]

Thanks guys but it now seems clear to me that I don't have the same wiring layout as those that you are referring to. There is no loop back of white/red to white green as you show. There is ( in the right handlebar control) a sliding switch marked "lights" that will connect the white green to white/red when moved to the on position. This is part of the confusion for me. If one leg of the stator is pushing voltage ( and AC at that) down to the handlebar control and thence down to the R/R it wouldn't work if the switch were in the off position. It makes no sense to me.

I've been pondering this all day and I just don't follow the logic. It would make more sense to join the white/green and white/red directly as you suggested ad nauseum ( i.e. stator to R/R) but what then happens at that silly switch and how can the damned thing do anything if it was getting AC juice from the stator anyway?

I'm sure there is something simple here that I'm missing but the light bulb hasn't gone off yet.

Thanks for hanging in there with me.

Spyug

The generally accepted modification is to remove any connection between the charging and the light switch.

The light switch is a quick and dirty way to reduce the power coming out of the stator when the lights are not on.

The AC is NOT USED TO POWER THE HEADLAMP or ANY OTHER LIGHTS.

There is a ganged switch on the left hand control.

When the lights are off , the 1st of 2 ganged switches removes the 12V from the headlamp. The 2nd of the ganged switches opens up 1 leg of the stator.

When the lights are on. 1st switch closes 12V to the light and 2nd switch closes completing the 3rd stator leg so it can provide power to the R/R.

After removing the stator circuit wires to the left hand switch they are not used and are actually free for other uses (like coil relay mod). Otherwise You can just leave them alone

 

[Nessism]

The Suzuki wiring sends two legs of the stator voltage directly into the R/R, and the other leg goes up to the handlebar switch. If the headlamp is on (like in the US where the lamp is on all the time), that extra stator leg turns around at the plug and then feeds into the R/R. On bikes where there is a manual headlamp switch, but if the headlamp is off, I think the voltage goes nowhere.

I'm pretty sure it's okay to feed the voltage straight into the R/R but it's recommended to keep the headlamp on all the time. I'm not certain if bad things would happen if you kept your headlamp off but it should be on for safety sakes anyway.

Edit: Jim posted while I was typing.

 

[spyug]

Still confused but getting a tad clearer. I should have mentioned that this bike might be a German model imported to Canada and looking at the schematic it seems that switch has an always on component (i.e. the white /green connects to the white/red). In addition, the white/green coming from the stator is shown as being Green/white tracer and it does indeed go into the green/white lead coming from the harness. Where the connector from the harness to the controls join, the Green/white becomes White/green. What a dogs breakfast.

So I guess I'll plug that stator lead into the green/white.....and pray that it all works.

Thanks for all the input guys and sorry for all the confusion.

Cheers,
Spyug

 

[Nessism]

I think you want the White w/green tracer, not Green w/white tracer although I don't have a Can/Germ wiring diagram.

 

[spyug]

Well this is where all the confusion is coming from. I have the factory manual and there are 6 different wiring diagrams but they all show Green/white tracer coming from the stator going to Green/white (through the harness) and then becoming White/green at the connector to the right hand controls.

When I actually have the stator wire in my hand it looks white/green tracer to me.

If they had the same colour in reality and in the manuals we wouldn't have wasted half a day ( or more). Time we'll never get back

Thanks for all the help, hopefully I won't need to bug you folks again for awhile but somehow I doubt that.

Cheers,
Spyug