Completed single point ground

[posplayr]

Posplayr, where do you get your electrical terminals/connectors. Lowe's, OSH etc don't have much of a selection in spite of their size and they seem cheaply made--nothing like the stock connectors.

Unless I'm desperate or just looking for ideas(I found a great solution for something I was working at Ace just last week in the hardware bins), I only buy what I need online. Digi key, Mouser, Amazon or Ebay.

 

[glib]

Blue E: After removing the extra harness from the R/R wiring, wiring the stator direct and installing the single point ground, I performed the revised Phase A test (quick test was good except 5000 rpm where it dropped off badly). The negative side test was .01 so that worked but the positive side bounced from .45 to .60.

My ES is down to .17 on the positive side so I swapped the fuse boxes to see if it would make the Blue E any better but it still tested .45 to .60. So if the fuse box isn't making a significant difference, where else do I look on the positive side for contact problems? BTW, I do like the SSPB idea and will probably get it for my ES at some point but I am going to sell the Blue E once it is safe to ride and it's already looking like I will break even at best. I would have done better to part it out but what fun is that!

 

[Vesmak]

How wrong i do if i do SPG in motor backside ground point? That point have allready strong cable to the start solenoid. I have my R/R bottom of the batterybox and that is not so good place to wiring.

 

[Brendan W]

How wrong i do if i do SPG in motor backside ground point? That point have allready strong cable to the start solenoid. I have my R/R bottom of the batterybox and that is not so good place to wiring.

In theory you can put the SPG anywhere you like. Is the ' motor backside ground point ' the point where the big cable comes from the crankcase to the battery negative ? I wouldn't put one there. My SPG is one of the starter relay mounting screws. The two harness return wires can reach there without modification. The r/r is close by, under the battery box so the return wire to the r/r can be kept short and the battery negative is close so that wire is short.

 

[Vesmak]

I mean that bolt. And that cable goes to the solenoid -. Dont know yet how air intake fit if i put some wires there.

 

[Brendan W]

The cable from that bolt should be going to the battery negative.

 

[posplayr]

In theory you can put the SPG anywhere you like. Is the ' motor backside ground point ' the point where the big cable comes from the crankcase to the battery negative ? I wouldn't put one there. My SPG is one of the starter relay mounting screws. The two harness return wires can reach there without modification. The r/r is close by, under the battery box so the return wire to the r/r can be kept short and the battery negative is close so that wire is short.

This is correct, I would only reemphasis the SPG can be anywhere as long as it is close (1 ft) to the R/R(-).

To Vesmak I would suggest trying your way and measure the voltage drops and then do it the recommended way and see what the difference is. Report back the answers. You would use Revised Phase A tests for voltage drops at 5000 RPM.

 

[posplayr]

Blue E: After removing the extra harness from the R/R wiring, wiring the stator direct and installing the single point ground, I performed the revised Phase A test (quick test was good except 5000 rpm where it dropped off badly). The negative side test was .01 so that worked but the positive side bounced from .45 to .60.

My ES is down to .17 on the positive side so I swapped the fuse boxes to see if it would make the Blue E any better but it still tested .45 to .60. So if the fuse box isn't making a significant difference, where else do I look on the positive side for contact problems? BTW, I do like the SSPB idea and will probably get it for my ES at some point but I am going to sell the Blue E once it is safe to ride and it's already looking like I will break even at best. I would have done better to part it out but what fun is that!

Excluding fusebox, there is a "T" wire crimp buried about 3" into where the R/R(+) red disappears into the harness. There is also typically a bullet connector in the wire from battery to fuse box.

 

[Vesmak]

Ok. Just installed tank. And battery. And testing start after all looking good. Nothing but solenoid say bzzz, when push start button. What i doing wrong...

How i need to do old R/R wiring bypass, is there my problem? There is now only tape over all color wires except red which i connect stright to new R/R brown (+). We tought that battery dont have much power and connect charger and starting, starter needle jump to the max current and stay there when i release start button, then like a flash i take charger plug off battery. All fuses still allright. Dont know, some kind of short circuit maybe..

Scary ****.

edit.
Old R/R color wiring is all together taped, not separately.

edit2.
I quote you posplayr from the another topic:
"Don't connect the starter solenoid to ground; it has been done before

"
Theeere i maybe have big misconnection, my solenoid has + straight from battery and - is now starter and ground..... I fix it tomorrow, that ground needs to be under solenoid frame bolt.. shet..

 

[glib]

I leave the coaching to posplayr but I will tell you that I did make the mistake of connecting my single point ground wire (that belonged on the solenoid bracket) to one of the posts and I'll credit the Grace of God that it did not destroy the system. It DID light up that wire and burn off all the insulation the moment I hit the starter button. Just careless because I knew where it belonged and just got sloppy.

 

[Vesmak]

Thanks for all helping me! Especially thanks for you posplayr! Without your help i would never have put it together.

Now i have running beast in garage. Just drove 15km (9.3 miles) test with jeans and little jacket and of course helmet, but pretty cold here 4celsius (39.2 degrees Fahrenheit).

 

[glib]

Back to posplayr or other electrical talent. I thought I had my ES at least to the point were I would not get stranded--charging consistently though not where it should be. Then yesterday I went to start it up and I could tell the battery was straining so I checked it and the battery was low after sitting only a couple weeks and the bike was not charging more than about 12.5 volts when it was up to 13.5 or so the last time I checked. The battery is only a year old. Is the stator going bad or is it the R/R?

 

[posplayr]

Back to posplayr or other electrical talent. I thought I had my ES at least to the point were I would not get stranded--charging consistently though not where it should be. Then yesterday I went to start it up and I could tell the battery was straining so I checked it and the battery was low after sitting only a couple weeks and the bike was not charging more than about 12.5 volts when it was up to 13.5 or so the last time I checked. The battery is only a year old. Is the stator going bad or is it the R/R?

If you do a Quick test it might provide a clue.

 

[glib]

If you do a Quick test it might provide a clue.

Yesterday I put it on the charger which had a green light just now so this is fresh off the charger:

Key off 13.04

Key on 12.00 after five seconds 11.75 after ten seconds (I thought that might be significant since it seemed to drop quickly)

1500 1216

2500 1245

5000 1322

key off 1289

 

[posplayr]

Yesterday I put it on the charger which had a green light just now so this is fresh off the charger:

Key off 13.04

Key on 12.00 after five seconds 11.75 after ten seconds (I thought that might be significant since it seemed to drop quickly)

1500 1216

2500 1245

5000 1322

key off 1289

I would suspect the stator.
Did you do the revised Phase B tests and especially let to ground at 5K?
Did you replace the stator already?
Did you replace the R/R to Series already?

 

[glib]

I would suspect the stator.
Did you do the revised Phase B tests and especially let to ground at 5K?
Did you replace the stator already?
Did you replace the R/R to Series already?

I've had the bike for two years and I think the PO replaced the R/R but it's stock. I think the stator is original.

 

[posplayr]

I've had the bike for two years and I think the PO replaced the R/R but it's stock. I think the stator is original.

Then the stator is probably well on it's way to being a "crispy critter". Do The Revised Phase B tests and see what they say.

 

[glib]

Then the stator is probably well on it's way to being a "crispy critter". Do The Revised Phase B tests and see what they say.

OK. I'll get started on that. Phase A, BTW, is positive .16 and negative .03.

 

[glib]

The readings between stator wires were 56, 60 and 45 and each wire to ground were 36, 16 and 14. (VAC). If I understand correctly, this stator is toast. If I am correct, what is a good value on a stator?

 

[posplayr]

Phase A (+) shows probable dirty fusebox. The phase b clearly shows that the insulation on the stator is toast. You also know that r/r is killing the stator and you need a series r/r.