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Completely unable to remove pilot jet

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike
  • Start date Start date
M

Mike

Guest
Whoever got in there last left one of the pilot jets with half of the top missing, making it impossible to remove with a screwdriver. I soaked it with PB Blaster and tried an easy out, and all it did was hollow out the jet. Any suggestions to get it out without destroying the float bowl as it doesn't seem like any place sells just the float bowl?
 
What type of carburetor has the pilot jet in the float bowl?
Mostly they are threaded into the carburetor body?
 
Why would you destroy the float bowl? The jet is up in the carb body. Soak it again in PB blaster, apply some heat to it with a little propane torch (make sure it's free of gas), then try a left hand drill bit that's bigger than the hole in the middle of the jet, but smaller than the outside diameter of it. That worked for me when I couldn't get one of mine out. The left hand drill bit turns to the left and should grab hold of the jet and twist it out if you soaked it long enough and put enough heat to it. Good luck. I know it's frustrating, but when you see it come out, you get a real nice warm and fuzzy good feeling. Stay with it, it'll come out.:dancing:
 
You can use a slightly larger left handed drill bit, larger than the easy out and see if it will grab hard enough to catch the remaining portion of the jet...
 
Lunchbox88 said:
Ive never had good luck with those easy out things. Usually my approach would be to drill it out Im not sure if carbs would be to delicate, but if nobody can thing of anything else it may be your only option.
Click to expand...
I've used this technique on some carbs and occasionaly the "smashing a screwdriver into brass" technique as well. Now what in the world has a pilot in the bowl itself?
 
post a pic of what your working on please.
The alloy of a carb body will not forgive much abuse much like a brass jet.
 
Still have not seen what bike we are working on, but aren't the jets for the 450 carbs in the bowl? :-k

I know I have seen a set of carbs recently that did, I think they were on a 450. :o

.
 
Yes - it's on a 450.

In the link I just posted, it has pictures showing exactly what I'm looking at.
 
From the sounds of it i am interpreting this as they are referring to the "inside" of the float bowl area, and thusly "inside the float bowl". This would logically go on to mean that the pilot jet is in it's usual spot. I cannot fathom the inefficiencies of a carb layout with fuel paths heading down to the bottom of the bowl, that just doesn't make sense.

And while i'm at it, which easy'out are we talking here?
This?
Easy%20Out.jpg


this?
Easy%20Out%202.jpg


or this?
51eIzpA3YfL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


I've used all three and the square punch ones (you only lightly tap them in when in light metals like this) grip far better than the helical ones, which grip far better than the "thread" ones.
 
Last edited:
Mike said:
Yes - it's on a 450.

In the link I just posted, it has pictures showing exactly what I'm looking at.
Click to expand...

Having viewed the picture I'd say, left hand drill bit or ezout. Nice and slow. Good luck. Have I told you how much I detest soldered floats?
 
mike-s said:
From the sounds of it i am interpreting this as they are referring to the "inside" of the float bowl area, and thusly "inside the float bowl". This would logically go on to mean that the pilot jet is in it's usual spot. I cannot fathom the inefficiencies of a carb layout with fuel paths heading down to the bottom of the bowl, that just doesn't make sense.

And while i'm at it, which easy'out are we talking here?
This?
Easy%20Out.jpg


this?
Easy%20Out%202.jpg


or this?
51eIzpA3YfL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


I've used all three and the square punch ones (you only lightly tap them in when in light metals like this) grip far better than the helical ones, which grip far better than the "thread" ones.
Click to expand...

it was the first one. i'll grab a square one tomorrow and see if I have any better luck.
 
i have posted it before.
here it is again.
us a TORCH..not melting it but heat it good.
penetrating oil of any type has no effect on stuck jets.
an easy out is fine to use once you heat it up good.
 
Mike said:
Yes - it's on a 450.

In the link I just posted, it has pictures showing exactly what I'm looking at.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but the link you posted was for the entire document. If you don't have a quick internet connection, the time it takes to load the entire document is not worth the wait.

.
 
Steve said:
Yeah, but the link you posted was for the entire document. If you don't have a quick internet connection, the time it takes to load the entire document is not worth the wait.

.
Click to expand...

Good point. My apologies. In the future, I'll try to just take a picture of my set up, or a screen shot of the relevant part of a large document.
 
Mike said:
Whoever got in there last left one of the pilot jets with half of the top missing, making it impossible to remove with a screwdriver. I soaked it with PB Blaster and tried an easy out, and all it did was hollow out the jet. Any suggestions to get it out without destroying the float bowl as it doesn't seem like any place sells just the float bowl?
Click to expand...




does the term DENTAL WORK seem unusual ? Not in a situation like you have..

I have sucessfully removed a few mangled pilot jets in my time. I have one and the fragments in a glass jar to show my customers what a worst case senerio can look like.


small porting files, left hand drills, dremel tool, precision drill bits. oh and a truck load of patience.

the easy out removers put pressure on the stuck jet and push it outward only making it stick as hard as you push and twist. #1 way to crack and break the aluminum. You need to remove the brass material from the center out and do not hurt the threads on the inside of the pilot jet channel.
 
trippivot said:
does the term DENTAL WORK seem unusual ? Not in a situation like you have..

I have sucessfully removed a few mangled pilot jets in my time. I have one and the fragments in a glass jar to show my customers what a worst case senerio can look like.


small porting files, left hand drills, dremel tool, precision drill bits. oh and a truck load of patience.

the easy out removers put pressure on the stuck jet and push it outward only making it stick as hard as you push and twist. #1 way to crack and break the aluminum. You need to remove the brass material from the center out and do not hurt the threads on the inside of the pilot jet channel.
Click to expand...

As trippivot said.:)

I removed two stuck pilots a couple of weeks ago. Drilled the center hole larger in small increments, by using a drill press. It is very important to drill exactly in the center of the stuck jet and exactly perpendicular and not deeper than the end of the jet.

Inspect the hole carefully with a light and magnifying glass after every step. Once you have most of the brass drilled out with a 4mm drill bit, then collapse the remains of the brass inwards from the threads using a small watchmakers screwdriver and a tiny hammer. Then remove the brass carefully.
Try not to damage the threads in the body as they are very soft.
You can clean the threads by carefully and lightly running a tap through it. Blow and clean out properly and use a long screw with the same thread with some anti seize to check the threads.
Having a spare pilot jet in hand to compare depth and thickness helps a lot.
 
Matchless said:
As trippivot said.:)

I removed two stuck pilots a couple of weeks ago. Drilled the center hole larger in small increments, by using a drill press. It is very important to drill exactly in the center of the stuck jet and exactly perpendicular and not deeper than the end of the jet.

Inspect the hole carefully with a light and magnifying glass after every step. Once you have most of the brass drilled out with a 4mm drill bit, then collapse the remains of the brass inwards from the threads using a small watchmakers screwdriver and a tiny hammer. Then remove the brass carefully.
Try not to damage the threads in the body as they are very soft.
You can clean the threads by carefully and lightly running a tap through it. Blow and clean out properly and use a long screw with the same thread with some anti seize to check the threads.
Having a spare pilot jet in hand to compare depth and thickness helps a lot.
Click to expand...

Holy Crap! that sounds both tedious and stressful.:(
 
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