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compression diminishes to nothing from 1 to 4

  • Thread starter Thread starter Paul's Zuki
  • Start date Start date
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The special tools are for the valve guides. Leave those alone. The valve guides have oil seals on the end inside the spring (No. 14 in the fiche image) that should be pulled and replaced. They pull straight off like a cap, but can be tough to yank out of there. Some needle-nose pliers and arm strength will do the trick.

Note that the oil seals will not survive removal, even brand-new ones. So when you replace the seals, make sure the valve spring seat is in position, or you will waste a new oil seal, when you have to pull it apart to install the seat.
 
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So, let me get this straight, the valve guide isn't in this diagram, right? its attached to the valve cylinder head?
 
Correct. The guide is the bullet-like tube attached to the head.
 
I would strongly suggest at least lapping and leak testing the valves when they are out. If the seats are real bad you might need them recut.
There is an old saying: "do it right or dont do it at all" What my dad always told me.
 
gearhead13 said:
I would strongly suggest at least lapping and leak testing the valves when they are out. If the seats are real bad you might need them recut.
There is an old saying: "do it right or dont do it at all" What my dad always told me.
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Yeah, pulling all that crap apart makes it worth doing everything inside. Once you have the valves and springs out, check them, tighten them up, etc. Putting them back together is pretty maddening, so you won't want to do it again for a long time.
 
can someone explain lapping to me. I understand its for the valve seat, but that's it.
 
I just saw an explanation. Can I find the compound at an auto store?
 
any autoparts store should have a lapping compound. Course and fine usually in the same package. Start with course and finish with a few turns of fine depending on how bad the seats are.

Nic
 
alright, so far I have replaced the valve guide seal on chamber #4 and lapped both the intake & exhaust valves seats. Only got around to do one b/c I had to tear down, but after I was done I did the wet test by flipping them over and putting some lighter fluid in the dome to fill it up let it sit over night and no leak what so ever. So I feel that one has sealed correctly. Now, I did notice that my intake valve #3 had absolutely no seal at all. I did the light test and could see a gap of about 1/16 halfway around. Possible replacement of valves on that chamber?
 
You need to tear down further before you'll know. You probably should replace those valves. Considering #3 is where you had a holed piston I'd say that seat has a good chance for damage as well. You may be headed to a machine shop to grind some seats, or pick up a good used head somewhere. If you grind the seat down that far then you'll need to shorten the valves some as well so you can get shims to fit it.

Paul's Zuki said:
alright, so far I have replaced the valve guide seal on chamber #4 and lapped both the intake & exhaust valves seats. Only got around to do one b/c I had to tear down, but after I was done I did the wet test by flipping them over and putting some lighter fluid in the dome to fill it up let it sit over night and no leak what so ever. So I feel that one has sealed correctly. Now, I did notice that my intake valve #3 had absolutely no seal at all. I did the light test and could see a gap of about 1/16 halfway around. Possible replacement of valves on that chamber?
Click to expand...
 
Paul's Zuki said:
Now, I did notice that my intake valve #3 had absolutely no seal at all. I did the light test and could see a gap of about 1/16 halfway around. Possible replacement of valves on that chamber?
Click to expand...

Something seriously wrong there. Maybe the valve is bent?

As an aside, it's assumed that you will replace all the gaskets while the engine is apart. Suzuki OE gaskets are far superior to aftermarket. In particular, the base gasket and rubber O-ring seals on the base gasket are critical.
 
I do have a new gasket set (oem). I do believe the valve is probably bent, I did look at the seat on the cylinder head and it looks pretty good, even the valve seat, but i do believe it is bent. I am going to order another. It was getting late last night, and only had a chance to work completely on #4, will start on the other three today and probably go ahead and order the valve tonight to once i see what else is there.
 
You ought to be able to put one of the other intakes in there temporarily to see if the sliver of light goes away.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
You ought to be able to put one of the other intakes in there temporarily to see if the sliver of light goes away.
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I actually thought about that last night, but because it was getting late and I was getting tired, I didn't want to screw anything up, really didn't want to lose any small peices b/c of clumsiness, so i just wrapped it up and went to bed. all seriousness aside, I had a dream the other night that I had the bike running. Since I've purchased it 3 years ago, it has not been turned on once. It's hasn't ran even before I bought and who knows how long before that. :)
 
Ok just lapped all the valves and replaced two exhaust valves. I know I still need to get correct shims for at least 3 of the exhaust valves to adjust and will test compression then.
 
Hypothetically speaking, as I have one more step to do before I test compression again and get a reading, If you have installed new piston rings, lapped and made sure valves seat good, new cylinder head gasket, and your compression is still low, what's the deal? Again this is just a hypothetic questions. I still need to install proper shim sizes.
 
Ok. So no hypothecial anymore. I just replaced the shims that needed replaced and my valve buckets spin freely with the proper clearance as per the manual. I go to check the compression and this is what I get: #1-78psi, #2-20psi, #3-26psi, #4-30psi. What gives. I at least now have gotten my #3 to read now, but it seems there was no change on the others. I have lapped and made sure the valves seated good. new gaskets. new piston rings. Does anyone have an idea? what else I could do to troubleshoot?
 
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