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compression diminishes to nothing from 1 to 4

  • Thread starter Thread starter Paul's Zuki
  • Start date Start date
Those always seem a bit off on the 550s that I've seen pictures of - and mine. Maybe it's wear to the forward chain guide or chain stretch? If it were a whole tooth counter-clockwise what would probably way too far. The T mark looks a degree or two counter-clockwise to the timing mark. It would probably line up better if dead on.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
I think your timing is on OK. Like I said, gssuzuki.com has the OEM rings for $25 per set +S/H, or about $26 each at DeLand Suzuki: both pretty good discount OEM sources.
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oh yeah, sorry about that. I googled and got something else, then just typed like you did and it turned up. thanks ordering tonight.
 
tkent02 said:
The spacing between the cams looks correct, but isn't the #1 on the exhaust cam one tooth up from the head's top surface? The arrow should be flush?
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Agree. Exhaust cam might have to come down one tooth.
 
Paul's Zuki said:
should I hone the bore again?
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no.... only reason to hone in this case is to break the glaze.... and as this motor hasn't run, or even if it had been started, the hone marks will still be visible.... so no reason to do that

get an oem base gasket while you're there. little cost for complete peace of mind....
 
Nessism said:
Agree. Exhaust cam might have to come down one tooth.
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You know before all these issues and when I came to timing everything right the very first time, I did notice that it could come down what I thought one more notch but then the arrow just went past the head's top surface. I will try again when I reassemble to see what that does.
 
Well, I ordered those rings and new gaskets a few days ago and hopefully they come in this weekend so I can work on it some. I really do hope that putting in the wrongs rings was causing the low compression. we'll see. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
Paul's Zuki said:
Well, I ordered those rings and new gaskets a few days ago and hopefully they come in this weekend so I can work on it some. I really do hope that putting in the wrongs rings was causing the low compression. we'll see. I'll keep you guys posted.
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I'm positive it would.
You'll be up and running with the right rings.
 
Damn, what drama, i've just reviewed this from start to finish. I hope to read about a running motor soon. Keep working at it!
 
Okay, finally, I'm getting those rings in. There was some delay in ordering. Should have them by Friday and I will start to reasseble to attempt to turn on.
 
Shame Paul, I feel for you, you have the patience of a saint and some true grit, I really hope to see you fire it up shortly.
 
Good News! Good News! Good News!

Good News! Good News! Good News!

Got the piston (standard rings this time) last night and installed reassembled the top end. I still need to get carburetors installed, which I know are perfectly cleaned and delivering fuel flawlessly. My compression across all 4 cylinders is between 125-130, and I've yet to seat the piston rings by running it hard. that will be today once i get her on.

The Black Dahlia will live again!!!

story behind my bikes name: Elizabeth Short ( a.k.a The Black Dahlia) was a brunette who was an aspiring actress that was the victim of a gruesome murder in which she was chopped up. This is were it gets a little demented. I interpreted the name to my bike as follows. My tins are painted a bronzemist that to me resembles a brunette along with a nice brown handstiched leather seat (Brunette). And,, my GS550 went thru a chop and rebuild. She's been all chopped up. See the resemblence.:lol:

Anyways, thanks to all who have helped with the troubleshooting and I will not forget you guys. I will post photos soon of the finished product and even a video of her running.
 
I don't want to leave the doubt of leaving something out. I have the whole top end reassembled. Compression is good, about 120. Fuel is going to down to float bowls. I dipped and clean the carbs of all kind of build up, bench synced the carbs. So I try to turn on and I can hear it want to turn over. nothing really happens. I spray some carb starter fluid and and a few seconds of turning the starter the bike fires up for about 3 seconds max and then just dies. It will always start with some starter fluid, but won't stay turned on. oh, and when it does turn, I have throttle wide open so its revved up high. Any suggestions or do I just need to continue to work at getting it going? here are some other tidbits..........I do no have filters installed, the top of the carbs are not installed( the top covers where you would adjust to sync carbs, tops), tank is not installed, but fuel line has fuel in it, vacum hoses (this part I'm not sure what needs a hose or a plug. I running an aftermarket petcock with no vaccum line. also, when it does turn on for the few brief seconds, it sounds awesome.
 
The bike won't run without the airbox, unless you rejet for pod air filters.

Sorry, I'm too busy to read back though this thread...did you replace the intake boot O-rings and rebuild the carbs?
 
These are VM22SS carbs I'm assuming (mechanical slide carbs) with the accelerator pump (I think it had em on the 550? But maybe not) yes? If so they're a little less susceptible to the airbox being off and not starting thing. But even still, as Ed said, it wont run worth a crap off idle without the box or a rejet.
But, what you didn't mention are your air and fuel screw settings on the carbs.
For a start, the fuel screw (the one on the bottom) needs to be about 7/8 turns out. The air screw (the one on the side) should be about 1.25-1.5 turns out. I'd try it more on the 1-1.25 turns out side without the airbox on. You also need to assure that you bench synched the slides (they should all have roughly the same amount of gap when closed. I use a paperclip as a feeler gauge. Adjust the sync screw so that it's just closed on the paper clip for each slide). And your idle speed adjustment screw needs to have a touch of pressure on the spring. With choke the bike should start without the box, it may even run off choke without it, but it probably won't accept much throttle without it. And I wouldn't try much as you're going to be lean and hot and that's bad for the valves.
And as Ed said, if you didn't replace the intake boot Orings, you NEED to do that as it will suck air around the boots.
 
TheCafeKid said:
These are VM22SS carbs I'm assuming (mechanical slide carbs) with the accelerator pump (I think it had em on the 550? But maybe not) yes? If so they're a little less susceptible to the airbox being off and not starting thing. But even still, as Ed said, it wont run worth a crap off idle without the box or a rejet.
But, what you didn't mention are your air and fuel screw settings on the carbs.
For a start, the fuel screw (the one on the bottom) needs to be about 7/8 turns out. The air screw (the one on the side) should be about 1.25-1.5 turns out. I'd try it more on the 1-1.25 turns out side without the airbox on. You also need to assure that you bench synched the slides (they should all have roughly the same amount of gap when closed. I use a paperclip as a feeler gauge. Adjust the sync screw so that it's just closed on the paper clip for each slide). And your idle speed adjustment screw needs to have a touch of pressure on the spring. With choke the bike should start without the box, it may even run off choke without it, but it probably won't accept much throttle without it. And I wouldn't try much as you're going to be lean and hot and that's bad for the valves.
And as Ed said, if you didn't replace the intake boot Orings, you NEED to do that as it will suck air around the boots.
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watch this guy...he rides a green motorcycle and we all know green is an unlucky color for motorcycles!:)
 
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