Confirmation of diagnosis on GS1100E charging system

[dweller]

I have a no charge condition on my recently acquired '82 GS1100EZ (brand new battery, full charge, reads 12.7 at rest and 11.7 with bike running at any engine speed). I've done a ton of reading (stator papers, forum, bikecliff, etc.) and have just completed testing. The OEM connector to the OEM R/R was completely melted and wires fried. I wasn't too concerned about checking the R/R because I intend to install a series unit, most likely the Compufire. I did all the stator tests and I believe it is fried. Resistance between the three outputs with the bike off are all between 5 and 12 ohms. Resistance between each of the three outputs and the engine casing are all 0L. Output with bike running at 5000rpm from each is 70-71 volts. At 5000rpm, voltage from each output is at 35 volts testing through the battery ground terminal. If I read the fault finding chart correctly, this last test is the sure indicator that the stator is fried.

Am I correct? Thanks for the help.

 

[bonanzadave]

Output with bike running at 5000rpm from each is 70-71 volts.

That seems OK. Get the new RR and wire it straight in with some good butt splices and a proper crimper. Ground it straight to the - batt terminal.

 

[glib]

Output with bike running at 5000rpm from each is 70-71 volts. At 5000rpm, voltage from each output is at 35 volts testing through the battery ground terminal. If I read the fault finding chart correctly, this last test is the sure indicator that the stator is fried.

Am I correct? Thanks for the help.

Stator is toast.

I have installed two Electrosport stators and two Compufire R/Rs on my two 1100's. No more charging fears. Electrosport ESG024. Shop around. I got mine for about $85. Compufire 55402 best price at Amazon $153.

Edit: I would not know the first thing about this if posplayr had not patiently taken me through the same process. My numbers were similar but not as uniform.

 

[dweller]

Thanks guys

 

[JTGS850GL]

I'd go with an SH775 regulator. The Compufires are over priced. You can pick up a good used SH775 for around $40. They almost never fail so buying used is not an issue.

 

[posplayr]

I'd go with an SH775 regulator. The Compufires are over priced. You can pick up a good used SH775 for around $40. They almost never fail so buying used is not an issue.

It depends on how much room you have. On the GS1100E there in not a whole lot; with minor modification teh CF can fit in the stock location. There is a small performance difference but it is size difference that is the overwhelming factor.

 

[dweller]

The size difference was the main reason why I was thinking Compufire. That and it seems to run cooler according to what I've read...

 

[glib]

Tight but it fits.

 

[dweller]

One last question guys. I've modified my electrical plate to accept the new Compufire R/R. New Electrosport stator is installed. I'm following advice from previous work by various members on wiring and grounding. Since I'm wiring the three stator wires straight to the Compufire, what is the consensus on what size fuse to use in the OEM fuse block for the main power circuit now that the current path is altered? Thanks

 

[posplayr]

One last question guys. I've modified my electrical plate to accept the new Compufire R/R. New Electrosport stator is installed. I'm following advice from previous work by various members on wiring and grounding. Since I'm wiring the three stator wires straight to the Compufire, what is the consensus on what size fuse to use in the OEM fuse block for the main power circuit now that the current path is altered? Thanks

Fuse size has nothing to do with the stator connections.

 

[Who Dat?]

The only "alteration" that you have done is to bypass a useless loop of one stator output wire that goes to a connector under the tank and loops back down to the R/R. Wiring the three stator output wires directly to the R/R input wires eliminates all the potential corrosion points in all those connectors along the way.

Hopefully you have wired the red output wire from the R/R back to the red wire in the stock location on the bike. If you did that, there is no need to change any fuses.

 

[posplayr]

The only "alteration" that you have done is to bypass a useless loop of one stator output wire that goes to a connector under the tank and loops back down to the R/R. Wiring the three stator output wires directly to the R/R input wires eliminates all the potential corrosion points in all those connectors along the way.

Hopefully you have wired the red output wire from the R/R back to the red wire in the stock location on the bike. If you did that, there is no need to change any fuses.

+1 ...............

 

[dweller]

Yes, after I though about it last night I realized there is only a need to change fuse size if I wired the R/R output directly to the battery. Thanks for confirming this. And for the help and advice!

 

[posplayr]

Yes, after I though about it last night I realized there is only a need to change fuse size if I wired the R/R output directly to the battery. Thanks for confirming this. And for the help and advice!

+2...............