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Correct clutch cable for clip ons?

  • Thread starter Thread starter claygs750e
  • Start date Start date
The Katana 550M clutch cable is the one I have seen recommended in the past for this situation.
 
Ok so I found a clutch cable for a 1982 Suzuki GS1000S that looks very similar and has clipons...do you think this would work?

While I'm going to buy something it's a little off topic, but I want to buy a gas cap, but the round syyle instead of what the stock one uses for the E model. Do you know if any gs gas cap will work?
 
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claygs750e said:
Ok so I found a clutch cable for a 1982 Suzuki GS1000S that looks very similar and has clipons...do you think this would work?
Click to expand...

Didn't you say you were having the same shifting problems before you installed the current bars and cable?
 
The bike was given to me and I literally rode it for a couple hours after it sat for 5 years so the cable, oil, ect was old. I started tearing the bike down shortly after so its hard to say since it had 5 yr oil in it.
 
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One thing I am curious about. In the picture that is attached, is #21 supposed to be loose when putting the cover back on? I do remember it being really loose, but thinking it was normal since there was only one way to put it back together. I wonder could it have went to far in and grabbed one less tooth and is not pulling it far enough out?




this is exactly what mine does, is this normal?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qo6PJ4xpJbQ
 
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SO I removed the basket agaain last night and everything apears to be in really good condition. I adjusted the cable to get as on the shaft as possible, but after riding it this morning it's still the same thing. I've noticed that its always harder to shift into 2nd gear and after about 15 mins everything is much better? WHat am I missing here?

 
Try taking the arm off the spline and moving it clockwise a notch or two. Looks like you have enough room on the adjuster threads to adjust the cable out.
 
I've had this exact same problem on my 650E since I bought it a year ago. Just got new fibers in the mail yesterday and will have them installed tonight or tomorrow night. The clutch working better when warm, in my oppinion, is from the viscosity of the oil when warm. My guess is that the fibers are old and crappy from sitting and the cold oil keeps them stuck together. One way I tested this was to start the bike and when cold, I put the front end up against a wall in my garage and gave some throttle while in first gear to "break" the plates apart. This worked for me so I'm 95% positive its the plates. Hopefully the new fibers help and I don't have to buy new steels too
 
I moved the spline clockwise until it would not move any longer when I put the lever on. I think it has enough pull because after 10-20 mins it shifts ok.
 
claygs750e said:
SO I removed the basket agaain last night and everything apears to be in really good condition. I adjusted the cable to get as on the shaft as possible, but after riding it this morning it's still the same thing. I've noticed that its always harder to shift into 2nd gear and after about 15 mins everything is much better? WHat am I missing here?

Click to expand...

This is what mine looks like:

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Seems the same as yours.
 

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Huntb...let me know if the new fibers work for you because even though they are in spec and even though they look fine that's the next option I've been leaning. I agree that it seems that when the oil gets warm it runs better, but I've already lowered the weight to 5w/40 so all thats left I would think are the fibers.
 
claygs750e said:
Huntb...let me know if the new fibers work for you because even though they are in spec and even though they look fine that's the next option I've been leaning. I agree that it seems that when the oil gets warm it runs better, but I've already lowered the weight to 5w/40 so all thats left I would think are the fibers.
Click to expand...

Clay - just wanted to let you know the new fibers fixed the problem (cable could be adjusted a little still) check out the pics of the old vs new. Old fibers are on the left (purple one). They must have been aftermarket or something. The fiber material is much thicker than the metal in the middle, the contact patches on the fibers are larger and the grooves are more shallow than OEM. Both the old and new plates measured the correct thickness.

IMG_20150603_181925.jpg


IMG_20150603_181831.jpg


IMG_20150603_181945.jpg
 
When you say the old fibers on the left, do youy mean the ones that look a brown/gold type color because mine look exactly like those. The darker ones on the right don't look like mine.
 
claygs750e said:
When you say the old fibers on the left, do youy mean the ones that look a brown/gold type color because mine look exactly like those. The darker ones on the right don't look like mine.
Click to expand...

Well left being left... yes the brown/red/gold fibers are the ones that I took out (old). The black ones are the new ones that I put in
 
So if your saying the OEM that you put in are the ones on the right they look like a darker color and thicker. I have the ones that are on the left that look brown/gold and appear to be thinner than the ones on the right. I would think the thicker ones would cause even more problems with the plates seperating since there is less space.
 
claygs750e said:
So if your saying the OEM that you put in are the ones on the right they look like a darker color and thicker. I have the ones that are on the left that look brown/gold and appear to be thinner than the ones on the right. I would think the thicker ones would cause even more problems with the plates seperating since there is less space.
Click to expand...

The old and new plates are the same thickness, but the difference in total groove area might be part of the solution (OEM, more grooves, and more room to squeeze oil out of the clutch pack), plus new OEM fibres might be all it needs. Also, who knows what a PO has dosed the engine oil with - some squirrelly snake oil additive could have messed up the plates.
 
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