• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Correct way to adjust clutch at the case and the lever?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Detman101
  • Start date Start date
D

Detman101

Guest
Bike = 1981 GS750 L

Clutch = Slipping when I go to take off FAST.

Cause = About maybe 8 months ago I went out to the bike one morning and started it up like usual. The bike hadn't had any problems before that day with the clutch. When I started it up and let it warm up and dropped it into first with the clutch pulled in the bike lurched and stalled! I was like WTF? maybe it's not warmed up enough? So I shifted it back to neutral and warmed it up another 5 minutes. Went to drop it into first and it lurched and stalled AGAIN! So I got pissed and put it back in neutral and adjusted the clutch lever at the handlebar thinking that maybe somebody messed with it. I screwed the screw all the way out and tried shifting into first again and WHOMP!! It lurched and stalled again. So after that I adjusted it at the case and went too far. The bike would slip like crazy in first gear...in any gear. So I pulled to the side of the road off and on...adjusting the case adjuster in a little more until the clutch worked close to how it used to.
But now summer has come along with all the things that summer brings.
And my little slipping problem has come back too at any attempt at a high speed takeoff.

I know I can just adjust the screw on the case adjuster in more but I want to do it right this time. Someone please instruct me as to how to go about this correctly.

Thank you.
 
the way I do mine, is to screw in the clutch hand lever adjustment all the way in. then go to the case, and turn the adjustment rod until you get the 2-3mm of 'play' at the clutch hand lever. Squeeze it a few times and check it again. then, as the clutch cable stretches/wears, I then fine tune the adjustment at the hand lever only until I get the 2-3mm again. I have never had a problem adjusting it this way.

In other words, adjust at the case only initially. Then adjust only at the hand lever after that. I use Mobile one 15w-50, and have noticed no difference of adjustment or 'play' with engine hot or cold.

Hope that helps.
 
Wait, I'm a bit confused. Are you saying that I should just screw in the handle adjuster all the way? Or only mess with the case adjuster?

You never specifed which action to take first... :?:
 
1. Screw in Hand lever adjustment all the way in - No threads showing
2. Adjust the case adjuster until you get 2-3mm clearance at the handle.
3. As the cable wears/stretches/or needs further adjustment, THEN adjust only at the lever.
 
You also have an adjustment at the push rod itself? At least my '83 does. I have to loosen the jam nut, turn in the push rod screw until just snug, then back it out about 1/4 turn. Then tighten the jam nut. I do this AFTER the lever adjustment.
 
propflux01 said:
1. Screw in Hand lever adjustment all the way in - No threads showing
2. Adjust the case adjuster until you get 2-3mm clearance at the handle.
3. As the cable wears/stretches/or needs further adjustment, THEN adjust only at the lever.
Click to expand...

Schweet, thanks!!
:D
 
If there is an adjuster on the countershaft cover with a slotted screw and locknut arrangemnet it has to be adjusted as DMPLATT outlined.
 
I want to thank everyone for the awesome advice on adjusting the clutch.
It all worked out PERFECTLY and I once again have a FAST bike. :D
Man, to think that I just dealt with that crap for months instead of just opening my mouth and asking you all. Honestly I felt a little stupid but it's all good now. :D

Well, looks like the bike is all tightened up and rideable just in time for the rainy weather....Great. :roll:

Ah well...
 
Billy Ricks said:
If there is an adjuster on the countershaft cover with a slotted screw and locknut arrangemnet it has to be adjusted as DMPLATT outlined.
Click to expand...

Would somebody please elaborate on this extra adjustment? I'm not looking at the bike right now, but I'm having trouble visualizing what the heck is being talked about here! I'm familiar with the cable adjustment at the lever and at the clutch, but not with these other adjustments. Do you have to remove the cover?
 
Follow-up question: do all bikes have these extra adjustments??? I've read about some years/models in which the clutch cable goes all the way into the case and some (like mine) that have a lever outside of the case to which the cable attaches. Does this make a difference?
 
There are two different setups at the gearbox end, depending on year, but each has only one method of adjustment.

In either case, dial the handle adjuster completely out, and adjust the box-end adjuster to get it right. If it won't come right, either your cable or your clutch is at fault.

Use the handle adjuster to take out slack whcih develops with subsequent use, until you run out of adjustment, then dial it out again and re-adjust on the box end.

When none of the above works, start with a new cable (cos it's cheaper and you will need it anyway), and if that don't work, worry about the clutch springs/plates. And while you're in there, stick a new basket in, too.

(Well, it worked for my Daddy :D )
 
Well I'm familiar with both of the cable adjustments you described. My question is people seem to be referring also to an entirely different adjustment (not directly relating to the cable).
 
Difference of terminology.

There are only two ways of adjustment at the box end. Pre-TSCC models (1979) had no adjustment on the cable at the box end, instead, they had a screw through the clutch cover that loaded the internal pushrod, held in place by a locknut.

The race guys didn't like that, cos it took too much time to adjust or something, so they had the factory change it on the post '79s to an external adjuster on the cable.

There's just the two ways.

The terminology difference is because the earlier method didn't adjust the cable as such - it moved the internal pushrod.

I can scan the Clymer pages for you if you want or it helps.

"There is no Third Way" - Ooops, sorry, that belongs under "Politics" :D :D
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top