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couple gs750es questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter james22
  • Start date Start date
J

james22

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hello again, once again i want to thank all the people who helped get my bike running again asking questions now i have 2 more i have a 1983gs750es i bought from a buddie for $50 bucks who lost total interest saying the bike would never run again so i said ill give you a 50 spot for it joking and he took the offer(lol) but i have used this site for technical help and got the bike running pretty good i re-did the carbs and some other nickle and dime things to it got it running and back to life now this is my first bike im doing ever but good so far now heres my question my clutch shifts fine when i drve smooth through them but when i try to punch it it sorta slips in all the gears but when im just cruising its fine do they maybe need to be adjusted?and second qustion(maybe a dumb one)is there any fluid tha lubes the clutch at all ??ooooo im sorry one more my front brake have no pressure running through it when i tried to bleed the brake to get pressure in my brake lever back there was no pressure at all anyone have any ideas on my question would be greatly appreciated.....:-D
 
I have heard that there are only three types of people in this world. Those who can count and those who can't. 8-[


Now for your questions:

my clutch shifts fine when i drve smooth through them but when i try to punch it it sorta slips in all the gears but when im just cruising its fine do they maybe need to be adjusted?
Yes, you can check the adjustment. Loosen the cable at the left hand grip, then loosen the end that is down on the engine. Adjust the lower adjuster until there is just a bit of play (the book calls for 2-3 mm) at the clutch lever. Tighten the jam nuts at both ends.
If that does not take care of the problem, you might also need to try cleaning the clutch plates. Do this just before an oil change. Drain out about a quart of oil. Top off the crankcase with Marvel Mystery Oil, go for about a 50-mile ride. Drain out the oil, change the filter and put in fresh oil. Make sure the oil you are using does NOT say "Energy Conserving" on the API seal on the back of the bottle. Using a 40 or 50 weight oil should be good, so look for a 10w-40 or 20w-50.
If that does not help, you will need new springs in the clutch. Simple fix, shouldn't take over 1/2 hour.

and second qustion(maybe a dumb one)is there any fluid tha lubes the clutch at all ??
Well, the clutch is sitting in engine oil, does that count? That is why you DON'T want "Energy Conserving" oil in there. They have friction modifiers (reducers) that will affect your clutch.

ooooo im sorry one more my front brake have no pressure running through it when i tried to bleed the brake to get pressure in my brake lever back there was no pressure at all anyone have any ideas on my question would be greatly appreciated.....
Sounds like time for a major bleeding, and maybe a cleaning, too. Do you have a Mity-Vac pump? Now would be a good time to get one. Only about $30-35 at most auto parts stores, will pay for itself in NO time. Suction the fluid out of the master cylinder, fill it with fresh fluid. Attach the Mity-Vac to the bleed nipple on the front caliper, open the bleeder a bit and suck the fluid through. Keep an eye on the level in the master cylinder. If you suck it dry, you will have to start over. :oops: Do this for both front calipers and you should be good to go (and stop).


.
 
Additionally, you should (before adjusting the cable) adjust the clutch lever behind the clutch plate. the book for my 78 calls for loosening the cable and loosening the lock nut on the clutch lever (behind the clutch plate). You do have to pull the clutch plate ( three screws)

Then adjust the screw in until there is some tension and back off the screw about 1/2 to 1/4 turn. set the lock nut and replace the cover and set the cable adjustments as was mentioned above.

As i said, this applies to my 78 750
 
Bopi said:
Additionally, you should (before adjusting the cable) adjust the clutch lever behind the clutch plate. the book for my 78 calls for loosening the cable and loosening the lock nut on the clutch lever (behind the clutch plate). You do have to pull the clutch plate ( three screws)

Then adjust the screw in until there is some tension and back off the screw about 1/2 to 1/4 turn. set the lock nut and replace the cover and set the cable adjustments as was mentioned above.

As i said, this applies to my 78 750
Click to expand...
This does not apply to his clutch.:-D
More than likely you do need new clutch springs. EASY job. Don't over think this one. While the clutch is apart I'd pull the clutch plates and use a brillo pad on the metal plates. Also look for cracked friction plates and worn pads. You can do this job with the bike on its side stand and lose just a few drops of oil.

On the master cylinder take the lid off, remove the brake lever and push the piston in with a phillip screw driver and see if you get any bubbles to come up. It's really hard to get the air out of the master cylinder by just bleeding.
 
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Bopi said:
Additionally, you should (before adjusting the cable) adjust the clutch lever behind the clutch plate. the book for my 78 calls for loosening the cable and loosening the lock nut on the clutch lever (behind the clutch plate). You do have to pull the clutch plate ( three screws)

Then adjust the screw in until there is some tension and back off the screw about 1/2 to 1/4 turn. set the lock nut and replace the cover and set the cable adjustments as was mentioned above.

As i said, this applies to my 78 750
Click to expand...

This does apply to his clutch, but a little differently. You set the adjuster on the handle bar all the way in and loosen the adjuster at the clutch end until the cable is slack. Then you loosen the lock nut on the clutch cover and turn the screw until it meets resistance. Turn the screw out 1/4 turn then tighten the lock nut. Then take enough slack out a the bottom cable adjuster to get about a 1/2" of play at the end of the clutch lever. Use the adjuster at the handle to get the action where you want it.

When bleeding the front master cylinder put the bike on its side stand. Turn the bars to the left and then try bleeding. Did you put a kit in the master cylinder? If you didn't and fully squeezed the handle when trying to bleed it you may have to put a kit in it now. A lot of stuff will accumulate at the bottom of the cylinder where the piston doesn't travel in normal use. If you push the piston to the stuff when bleeding it will tear up the seal. When I bleed mine I pull the anti-dive activators off and hold them up to allow air to escape quicker. You can sometimes get air out by letting it settle to the top and bubble through the master cylinder.

I've had my GS since 83 and have the Ma Suzuki manual for it. Let me know how it goes?
 
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When you bleed your front brakes dont forget to bleed the anti dive units if these have ANY air in them your front brakes ...well just won't.
If when you get them right you can really lighten up the rear under hard braking every thing is fine if the front end dives in and the back end stays planted its time to freshen up the forks. I DONT recomend it but my 700E will loft the back end and not even upset the front
 
thnx for all the replies i will have to give them a shot on the weekend ill let u all know the outcome........:-D
 
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