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Couple issues since carb overhaul and valve adjustment?

  • Thread starter Thread starter slyone
  • Start date Start date
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slyone

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Engine rpm's are very,very..very slow to drop back to base idle after releasing throttle BUT it idled great and accelerated great! I checked and adjusted throttle cables at carbs so there's 1/16" cable flex/play at stop. Though I did apply a wee bit of vaseline to slider bores for lubrication but now think I maybe shouldn't have:rolleyes: I think I'll pull the carbs and sliders and clean out that lubricant on bores? Then while I'm at it, I'll have to pop off the camcover and do something with those 1/2 moon plugs! I posted them in the maintainance section. What a PITA! feedback/suggestions welcomed :)
 
I've got the fuel pilots from 1.5 down to 1 turn out and the air pilots from 1.5 opened up to 2 turns out which didn't effect it other than to "maybe" improve base idle characteristics? The only vacuum lines is just the 1 to petcock?
The upper rubber hose on gas tank is just an overflow correct?- which just drops down behind air box as well as the 2 carb overflow lines...
 
When you open the throttle and let it go (engine off) you should hear a loud "Clack" as they slam shut. If you don't hear this clack that is the problem. If you do hear the clack and the idle is high anyway, it's a vacuum leak thing, o rings or whatever.
 
Are the throttle cables adjudted just so theres a slight bit of slack as you engage the throttle? Take the tank off and observe the cables right where they go into the linkage. Wiggle the throttle a bit and assure theres just a little slack down there. Do the major adjustments at the carbs and fine adjutments at the trhottle grip with the 10 MM jam nut system up there.
 
You are too lean. You must use the fast idle method on VM carbs. What you have are initial settings to get the bike running. Now you need to fine tune it. Nothing else will work.
 
Agreed Tom...1 out should be just a tad rich. I say the problem is in a hanging up throttle cable ( which you eluded to with the clack statement ). Antoher possibility is the initial ebnch sync has the slides open just a bit too far. I once took off the tops, started the bike and loosened all the jam nuts and lowered the slides with the adjustment screw and like magic, they settled down. Mind you i had turned the big idle knob till it wasnt touching the throttle linkage anymore and it was still way up there. Then there was that thread where the guy discovered the 8MM bolts that go thru the slide linkages to the throttle rod had come loose and the slides were " floating" as it were. Lesson here is to recheck EVERYTHING and then see what happens.
 
tkent02 said:
The fuel pilot one turn out should not be lean.
Click to expand...
I have highlighted the operative word in your statement. I am not disagreeing, I am merely stating that they MUST be fine tuned. There is a difference between being in the ballpark and being on home plate. Right now he is in the ballpark.
That is why those screws are adjustable. There will be variances between carbs, between cylinders and between engines.
 
koolaid_kid said:
I have highlighted the operative word in your statement. I am not disagreeing, I am merely stating that they MUST be fine tuned. There is a difference between being in the ballpark and being on home plate. Right now he is in the ballpark.
That is why those screws are adjustable. There will be variances between carbs, between cylinders and between engines.
Click to expand...

Absolutely correct, my point was that after fine tuning the fuel screws on VM carbs are always less than one turn out in my experience. At one turn he is not lean unless something is wrong someplace else.
 
I cannot disagree. So where is someplace else? Rubber fittings?
 
I had a lot of problems with cables and slides interfering with my idle.

The slides don't need much of a snag to really give you fits. Even if the cable feels responsive and has little to no play, if your idle is sticking (staying steadily higher than it should), check those slides again.

One way to do this is pull the tops from the carbs like you were going to vacuum synch them. When the idle hangs/sticks, gently press the slides with your fingers - nothing heavy, use the same pressure you'd give to the horn button. If the idle drops then, you have a sticky patch in the slide.

If you can recreate the idle snag in the garage, do it there. If not, you can ride around with not tops on the VMs, as they are basically dustcovers. Then at the light when the idle has climbed, do the touch test there.

HTH
 
That is true. Can you feel the backs of the slides to see if they are going down all the way?
 
Lot of good stuff guys, Thanks! I'm just kinda checkin in because I'm also doing a 4 whl brake job w/cables too On my brother's Plymouth van which sat for 2 yrs.:eek: and some other stuff to get her inspected:rolleyes: The Bike also blew out the 1/2 moon at camcover so I can't run it and will take it apart either tonight but probably tomorrow. I did just check throttle and she does not snap back so I'll check everything. I did not feel the need to sync carbs-which I never did...because I didn't touch those adjusters on type of sliders-just loosened the screws to shaft and slid shaft out?? guess I gotta lot of issues to attend to?
 
Pulled carbs and camcover tonight to reset 1/2 moons & clean out slider bores. Did someone say "throttle snap-back? lol, mine takes 7-8 seconds to close off the engine! guess that's the culprit...:rolleyes:
 
If you pulled the shaft you need to synch. Any disruption of the slides requires a synch. At least at the bench.
 
I can't seem to get the shaft to move easily or at all for that matter:rolleyes: I may have to remove the plate to loosen up the carbs..tomorrow! I found the #2 carb slider binding bad. In fact, I had to gently pry it just to get it to move! Hellooooo! WTF! can't wait to get that working again:rolleyes:

I still have to make a decision on how exactly to go about sealing and reusing cam 1/2 moon plugs which I think I might try reversing them, I'm not using Hondabond, that's goin back! how bout GM silicone sealer or even plain rtv?

Also my cam cover gasket which stay attached to cover but has a pretty descent impression of mating surface-hopefully it'll be fine. I never knew of putting grease(what kind) onto gasket surface?
 
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