• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Crack in bottom cover @ drain plug

  • Thread starter Thread starter MidWestCoast442
  • Start date Start date
M

MidWestCoast442

Guest
So I have a '79 GS425 with a crappy motor. I also have a spare motor that is in much better shape...except for a small crack in the bottom cover that starts @ the threads of the drain plug. I didn't do it. The bonehead previous owner caused the crack.

So, as I see it, there are two options:

1) Remove the bottom cover and have the crack welded-up.

2) Remove the crappy engine from the bike, pull the bottom cover, and install it on the good motor.


Sound correct to you all? What do you suggest? How difficult is it to remove and reinstall the bottom cover?

I know know nothing about these motors. A friend was saying that it's a split-case design and replacing the bottom cover would involve disassembling the entire motor...and then the other one may not fit because they were often file-fit during production. Please tell me that he is mistaken.
 
Well your friend is right in that the engine block is a two piece assembly. But hes full of squat when it comes to changing the oil pan. If you want to replace the oil pan on the one out of the bike you can just get one off ebay and an oil pan gasket and change it in about an hour.

But lets back up stream a little first. You say the engine in the frame now is junk. Explain this. Just whats it doing...sounds, rattles, squeeling, metalic clanking noises...what??? Doesnt run??? Maybe what you need is to do the maintenance on the engine first. Get the thing sorted and do a full carb tear down and rebuild before determining the engine is junk.

I had to change an oil pan on my 78 1000E once because of stripped threads. I drained the oil, took off the right side frame cover and the tank. Then just layed the bike over onto an old tire and removed the pan...simple.
 
Last edited:
Where in California are you. Lots of members out there and I would bet some gas money, few beers and a few brats on the grill and your in for some expert help and one great day of learning about your bike...just takes an asking and someone will respond.
 
Thanks, Chuck. I'm near Healdsburg, CA. About 1.5hrs north of San Francisco. 100% interested in having a motorcycle/beer/brats cookout. Anyone?

That info is very helpful! Thank you! I'll start looking into changing-out the oil pan.

To answer your questions - the motor that is out of the bike is the original motor with about 10,000mi on it. That one has the oil pan that the previous owner cracked. The motor that in in the bike is an eBay replacement motor that previous owner installed, instead of attempting to repair the motor with the cracked pan. This replacement motor leaks oil into both combustion chambers (not sure if it's from leaky valve seals or piston rings), needs valves adjusted, has unknown # of miles, and is visibly more worn/weathered. It isn't completely busted. But it has seen better days. A rebuild would cure what ails it.

-Ryan
 
Take the engine out of the bike and get a oil pan gasket on order. Swap the pans and then put the original engine back in. But I would also refresh the valve stem seals, lap the valves, adjust the valves while the original is on the bench. freshen it up and stuff it back in.
 
Yeah. That's more-or-less what I had in mind.

I had another look at the motor. Are you sure about the "oil pan"? It looks like the "oil pan" is actually the lower 1/2 of the crankcase. It really does look like I would have to completely dismantle the engine to replace the "oil pan" or lower crankcase or whatever it is.
 
So no sub cover on the bottom with a bunch of bolts holding it to the bottom of the engine....I didnt see an oil pan in the parts fiche either. I stand corrected then.

Well then, why cant you just take the engine to a shop and have them weld the crack by flipping the engine over??? Seems like that would be a viable option.
 
I talked to a shop. They said that they would need to weld the crack from both sides. Part of the problem is that the crack originates in the drain plug threads. Welding from both sides means dismantling the whole engine...
 
Not technically disassembly of the entire engine. Take the side crankcase covers off and remove the bolts holding the halves together and split the cases. Pain in the azz to have to do it but not at all a daunting task. Reseal the cases with some threebond 1184 or one of the many other cases sealers folks here have used with success. Just split the cases and dont disturb the tranny.

And for the drain thread situation. They make a PLUS 1 drain bolt that you can get at most auto parts places. Its designed just for stripped pan threads. I might even have one laying around.
 
The bolt in the bottom of the filter cover is just for draining the filter sump..not the entire engines oil supply.
 
I'd vote for a gob of JBweld (an epoxy) on a surface roughend with coarse sandpaper and well-cleaned with alcohol ...it isn't much good if there is ANY oil on the surface... Being upside down will likely mean a fail with oil seeping out and so drain oil,Tip the bike on it's side and clean clean clean.. two gobs as it runs a bit.Clean and roughen up with sandpaper between gobs.

JBweld comes off fairly easily with a file or sandpaper if it's a total fail and you can go back to the intensive solutions.
 
chuck hahn said:
So no sub cover on the bottom with a bunch of bolts holding it to the bottom of the engine....I didnt see an oil pan in the parts fiche either. I stand corrected then.

Well then, why cant you just take the engine to a shop and have them weld the crack by flipping the engine over??? Seems like that would be a viable option.
Click to expand...

I would do this, then make sure the flat where the drain plu g sits is filed smoothly and use a dowty bonded washer/seal just nip it up and it will be fine.


 
I like that idea, tatu. Forgot about dowty washers. I have thought about JBweld...but it will not prevent the crack from spreading like a TIG welder will. The dowty washer would prevent the cracks @ the threads from being a leaking issue.

I'll call a local motorcycle shop and see what they think about going through with this plan.
 
I PM'd gspower about his cracked lower case which sounds identical to mine. Thanks, Chuck.

So this is what I have in-mind for fixing the issue without removing the lower case:

TIG weld the crack together, TIG weld a strap of 1/8" aluminum over the location of the crack to reinforce & prevent future cracking, smooth/file the drain plug flat, and use a dowty washer to seal the plug to the flat.

Thoughts?
 
I was trying to wrap my head around why the one shop had told you they needed to weld it from BOTH sides.....when just welding it from the outside would seem sufficent to me. Like you just said..if it doesnt leak and it doesnt spread...done deal.
 
Took the motor to a welding/fab shop in Santa Rosa. The owner seems to know his sh*t. He also rides and has done this procedure before.

The plan is to weld-up the crack, threads, hole, etc. Then drill & tap a new threaded hole for the same plug. He's also going to machine a groove into the plug and the flat of the lower crank case so that I can use an o-ring to seal it. Compressed air will be pushed into the crankcase during drilling/tapping so that metal shavings don't go in.

Will report after I pick it up...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
1982 GS1000 Z US Version
Replies
10
Views
212
slayer61
slayer61
oldGSfan
A bit of help needed, GS1100E won't shift into gear and lever travel is excessive
Replies
5
Views
139
bonanzadave
bonanzadave
Tashields21
New Coils, no spark at 1 and 4. Narrowed down to CDI (maybe?)
2
Replies
33
Views
599
gs scott
gs scott
E
'83 1100E assorted newbie questions - what am I dealing with?
Replies
9
Views
153
eldevigo
E
E
'83 1100E very hard starting, starter motor switching directions
2
Replies
31
Views
621
eldevigo
E
Back
Top