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bakirkwold
Guest
I see guys. I am going to ask a bike builder and see what he thinks.
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Dude...theres guys here that have been in the drag racing scene for more than 25 years, owned dealerships, have built more bikes than a dog has fleas, have more knowledge that they have forgotten than most people actually learn in a lifetime. So, in summation..if the concensus is to replace it with an unbroken part and NOT to JB Weld or glue it otherwsie I would listen and save the time and trip to "a bike builder"..just sayin.
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JJ
Guest
OK, don't listen. When your engine ingests the broken parts and grenades itself, please post up pictures for us to see. Some of the users here are the best GS experts you will find anywhere. Listen to them and replace that POS worthless part with at least a decent used part.
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Billy Ricks
Guest
I'm not sure JB Weld would even stick all that well. The part is most likely impregnated with oil by this time. I wouldn't try it anyway.
Steve
GS Whisperer
That may be true, but I'll bet that they didn't use JB Weld on oily parts to start with.
And, there is also quite a difference between butt-joining a piece that is expected to hold an important part and layering two pieces with a much larger surface area just to keep them from sliding.
.
7
7981GS
Guest
This looks an awful lot like that same part. It is from a 4 cylinder GS not sure of the model.
It is held by screws from the top. It also shows very little wear.
I believe that it is used in conjunction with a lower guide that mounts in the head.
Its purpose is to limit cam chain slap when the throttle is snapped shut on deceleration.
In this close-up, you can just barely see any wear.
I would think that if you turned it 180 degrees, used a thin plate of steel to wrap around the broken joint shaped
like a "C" and glued it all down with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and the original screws, you would be just fine.
Although, I would just get the $20.00 used part that was linked myself.
Daniel
It is held by screws from the top. It also shows very little wear.
I believe that it is used in conjunction with a lower guide that mounts in the head.
Its purpose is to limit cam chain slap when the throttle is snapped shut on deceleration.
In this close-up, you can just barely see any wear.
I would think that if you turned it 180 degrees, used a thin plate of steel to wrap around the broken joint shaped
like a "C" and glued it all down with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and the original screws, you would be just fine.
Although, I would just get the $20.00 used part that was linked myself.
Daniel
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bakirkwold
Guest
Thats pretty much what I did. I just used JB weld. Mine had no wear on it. And I think its a safety if the cam chain tensioner looses tension it keeps the cam chain slap from hitting the valve cover.
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Billy Ricks
Guest
If the tensioner loses tension there will be more than the chain slapping things. You'll have valves hitting pistons.
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Guest
Guest
Love these people who ask what they should do , and then just disregard all the advice from people who have been doing this for years and do what they are told is wrong anyway. Why waste our or your time . Do what you want you will anyways
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JJ
Guest
So, what did your "bikebuilder" buddy tell you?
Just spend a few bucks, get a good part, and replace that grenade pin that you are so hellbent on destroying your engine with.
Damn.....
Its just a safety thing in case the cam chain tensioner should let the chain slap against the cases...
J
JJ
Guest
Would you run a broken/glued one in any of your bikes, Chuck?
I was paraphrasing his earlier post..not a million chances in hell that would go in any bike of mine!!!! See post 27
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JJ
Guest
LOL! I didn't think so. I wouldn't use it on mine, either. If it came off my bike, it would already be in the landfill.
Wrap some wire in the other hole and use it as a catfishing weight.
J
JJ
Guest
Only in still water. Not heavy enough for river fishing.
We can getb some rods and pistons to add to it once the thing lets loose..patience grasshopper!!!!!
