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Cracked...Need to replace stator rotor?

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheDuke
  • Start date Start date
T

TheDuke

Guest
I spent the evening tearing down the motor and noticed this out of the corner of my eye.

8xms.jpg

0tok.jpg


Will I need to replace the rotor...or the plate it is mounted to?
 
That is the starter clutch which is bolted to the rotor with very strong loctite if I remember correctly and was very difficult to remove when I replaced my rotor last January. I would put up a post in the parts wanted section for at least a new clutch and possibly the entire assembly. Also check EBay for old ones.

Please put your bike information in your signature file though; it will help someone say they can send you one if they know what you have.
 
Nothing to replace. Just pull the rotor and remove the starter clutch and the dowels and springs inside. Weld the cracks shut and grind them and file the area so its relatively smooth again.

Be sure to degrease the bolts and the threads of the holes with carb or brake spray so the red loctite will adhere solidly when yo rebolt it to the rotor.

All that hole is for is to stick a papewr clip into to hold the spring plungers abck while sliding it back over the rotor. I never use them. You can just app,ly some pre4ssure and wiggle then starter clutch around till the dowels pop over the rim. So what I am saying is that IF you want to puddle the hole full of weld also you wont be screwing yourself here. Weld and grind it back to shape and be done with it.
 
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Personally. I would replace it the starter clutch, and the bolts holding it to the stator. I don't like the idea of a cracked thing, or an unbalanced welded formerly cracked thing spinning around on the end of my crank shaft. It would take a lot of grinding to chase the whole crack out, and if you don't, its still cracked. The starter clutch is expensive, but I think you need a new one. I would replace the bearing(s) under the idler gear on the crank shaft too. Last one I replaced, I replaced the idler gear as well. The original seemed too loose of a fit on the bearing.
 
Which is why i said to grind and reshape it..maybe i should have more accurately said this..Grind the welds down and leave slightly high. Finish detailing with files till its smooth and contoured to match the original facing.

Its not gonna make the bikes crank wobble. shimmy or anything else Youve got a point though if someone just left a big glob hanging there. Little common sense needs to be applied. I fully feel the sentiment in your response, but its really NOT a big deal if you take your time and THINK a little along the way. If one is worried about the detents weight being filled, all you need is a drill and take a little dimple out when its done.

Ive also observed the crank bolt heads on bikes spinning out of perfect round and theres no issue there..just sayin.
 
The bolts too. Mine were kind of chewed up. They are prone to failure. Those bearings don't come with the kit, at least for the 1000. Hopefully, everything will be great.
 
I replace the bolts with GRADE 8 hardened ones from Fastenal. Like he said..the OEM ones get chewed up easier than real hardened ones do.
 
the S/C has a tin shield over it.
welding will not work because it is also broke on the inside.
it should be cheap to replace on a smaller GS.
 
I cant SEE into the inside hub area..but based on the second pic I dont see anything that I couldnt fix in 10 minutes with my MIG. But then aqain I am skilled like that to be able to repair things myself rather than waste time and money.

He already said he doesnt have the equipment or welding skills so the point is irrelevant for him anyway.
 
I am amused and find it rather funny how much pussyfooting goes on when it comes to just fixing stuff. For gad sakes its not the space shuttle or anything!!! Just grab a pair and do the work!!!!

Bunch of tippy toeing like folks are walking on eggshells or something.
 
BALLLSSS!!! Man up and just take the by the horns and repair the damned thing!! Folks sit around here and over analise wiping thier azzes most of the time. Just my observations and opinion of course.

So much can be done and repaired rather than wasting down time and money. That little crack is probably just in the cover and in reality the bike will have run another 50,000 miles with it as is and he wouldnt have even known unless he took off the cover...for something really seriuos that is.

Useless perponderance of evidence thats of no consequence what so ever.
 
Ho hum

There is a reason that there is an off topic area and a technical area. Some people understand it.
 
the part is somewhat balanced..or was till you feed goose shlt weld all over it...hahahhaha
back to the OT area charles!:D
 
And it would be when i was done too....sorry but this aint my first redeo. Ive been a die maker / machinist and welder for over 26 years and I know my personal capabilites.

Thats a 10 minute fix tops.

Like i said, had he not opened the cover for "whatever" the original rebuild intent was, the bike would have went another 50,000 miles and he wouldnt have ever known the difference. The only thing the cover is used for is so the dowels dont fall out the back side.
 
It's not a matter of not having the balls Chuck it's more the fact not everyone has the skills or the equipment. Not to mention it still takes time to pull off the part, do the repair, and put the part back - so how much time are you really wasting to buy a replacement and put it on?
 
I am referencing all the tippy toe around it just because of a little crack that really of no circumstance responses Scot.

Hell Yamaha was smart enough to realise all they needed was a backing plate..so they made one that is held to the back with a thick washer on the crank.

Even if he wasnt doing a rebuild tear down, checking the bolts tightness etc etc, that can be welded and done right where its at. No need to tear anything off. Some simple welds, some grinding till its ever so slightly still proud ( that means a little high to anyone uninformed) and some detailing with a file...done and move on really.

In all honesty, if it was mine, i wouldnt even bother with it. Notice that the covers are usually always spun from their original placement even though Suzuki dimpled the covers?? That right there should tell anyone that logically its a non issue. If the covers move out of place, then what the heck does any balance or anything else matter. I see too many responses..that to me..are simply way over thought and useless in the big picture.
 
Nothing to replace. Just pull the rotor and remove the starter clutch and the dowels and springs inside. Weld the cracks shut and grind them and file the area so its relatively smooth again.
If only everyone had a welder at their disposal. :-\\\


I've got zero welding skillz, nor do I have the equipment to even give it a try.
Join the club, neither do most of us. :D


... welding will not work because it is also broke on the inside.
it should be cheap to replace on a smaller GS.
It's basically the same part (although different size and all), why is it any more expensive on a larger bike? :-k
Besides, there aren't many clues to the size of the bike in question.


I dont see anything that I couldnt fix in 10 minutes with my MIG. But then aqain I am skilled like that to be able to repair things myself rather than waste time and money.
If I had a MIG, I could probably fix it in 10 minutes, too. I, too, would rather fix than replace, on most things, but since I don't have a welder (like most of us), there is no choice in the matter.


I am amused and find it rather funny how much pussyfooting goes on when it comes to just fixing stuff.
I agree, but we all tend to work within our capabilities and comfort zones.
I pretty much feel the same way when I see newbies post about how complicated or intimidating carbs and valve adjustments seem to be. :rolleyes:

So much can be done and repaired rather than wasting down time and money.
True, if you have the skills and the tools.


Ive been a die maker / machinist and welder for over 26 years and I know my personal capabilites.

Thats a 10 minute fix tops.
For me to get anywhere near that capability, I would have to take a class and either use the part as a class project or get the equipment and do it at home.
It's much quicker for those of us that don't have a welder sitting in the corner of the garage and years of experience to back it up to simply replace the part.
Shall we send you all our broken parts so you can weld them up for us?


... Chuck it's more the fact not everyone has the skills or the equipment. Not to mention it still takes time to pull off the part, do the repair, and put the part back - so how much time are you really wasting to buy a replacement and put it on?
Most of the mechanical work will take the same time: remove the stator cover, remove the rotor/stater clutch assembly, remove starter clutch from rotor, re-attach starter clutch, re-install rotor assembly, re-install stator cover. The only difference will be whether you take "10 minutes" to weld the crack or order a part and wait a few days for its arrival. You probably needed to order a gasket anyway, so there is no extra time there. The difference is whether you take off a cracked piece, weld it, re-install it or take off a cracked piece, set it down, reach for a replacement and install it. :o

Chuck, we appreciate your welding skills, but not all of us have them.

.
 
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