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Crank Balance and weld

  • Thread starter Thread starter spirit
  • Start date Start date
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spirit

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I am thinking of a one-time-only opening up of my '85 GS1150 and having the crank balanced and completely welded. I already know that the wear and tear factors are improved, but what I was really wondering was does it make the motor smoother or just move the resonances to another rev area?
 
There is more to vibration than just the crank. I had my crank balanced and welded, totally rebuilt years ago and hoped for less vibration, it was about the same. But I used my used 1229 Wiseco pistons. I have now switched to a 1260 Wiseco kit and still have the same amount of vibration.
Im not an expert and this is a one time experience so I will be curious to see what someone with some expertise has to say, I always wanted less vibration.
Also I believe the 1150 crank was welded from the factory and I believe many have used stock 1150 cranks for application under 150hp with good success, again Im not an expert (at all) this is only what I have been told in the past.
 
No one balances roller bearing cranks. It IS a good idea to have it disassembled, inspected, indexed & welded together CORRECTLY. The factory welds are ok but not great for a performance build.
Ray.
 
Anal flow balancing of the Head seemed to reduce the vibration on my 1166
 
Thats Funny;
I had my crank rebuilt in '99 and I remember the mechanic who was working with me on it told me they were great from the factory and unless I was going for much more hp than I was planing the stock was fine. Once we got it out one rod had excessive side play so I said have it "balanced and welded". He scoffed at the balancing and was a bit ****ed I questioned him so much on balancing. He keep saying they are always balanced it the way they are! He sent it to someone in Ohio and said don't worry it will be "balanced" re trued and re-welded! I always wondered if they balanced it or not, because you here so much about balancing.
That is one reason I was so interested in this post, I never knew if he was right or wrong, it all worked when it was back together and all is still well with my crank 15 years latter!
Should not have doubted him! He spent ALLOT of time with GS Suzuki's, I think I owe him an apology!
 
i worked at a crank shop...no i didn't do the crank work but i seen it 5 days a week for a year.
true and weld only.
how do you balance a press pin crank with the rods spinning around?
you can't.
you can balance the rods and pistons which really helps depending on how far off they are to start with.
 
Yes you can get a 1100/1150 crank balanced it is expensive but it can be done. Is it recommended NO. They are so close that unless you building a Pro Mod bike there is no need to do this. to rebuild a crank you only need to true it Most excessive vibration is caused by a crank going out of true or rod bearing or main going bad. If your going to get your crank done just have the rods balanced and have the crank trued and welded up properly then make all your pistons weigh the same and your motor will be smoother. I had my 85 1150 crank balanced many many years ago and I find out later that the cranks are so close to being balanced that they really don't have to balance them. When they balance them they have to assemble the crank without the rods balance the crank then disassemble the crank and reassemble the crank to put the rod back on. Basically assembling the crank twice. Expensive!
 
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stetracer said:
When they balance them they have to assemble the crank without the rods balance the crank then disassemble the crank and reassemble the crank to put the rod back on. Basically assembling the crank twice. Expensive!
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That is along the lines I was thinking. Dis-assemble the crank, add bob weights to the rod journals, press it together, index, balance it, dis- and re-assemble with the rods in place. That's a boat load of work you'll pay good money for.

As a side note, Do any of you think it's good idea to send a stock 8V 1000 out to be straightened (checked?) and welded if its never almost never going to be ridden hard?
 
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rustybronco said:
As a side note, Do any of you think it's good idea to send a stock 8V 1000 out to be straightened (checked?) and welded if its never almost never going to be ridden hard?
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if your motor is stock and you don't ride hard then I would say it is not needed.
 
Then I might see if I can get someone to machine a rod in order to check the crank for proper indexing. Unfortunately the crank I'm using is an unknown quantity and it has me wondering what state it's in.
 
rustybronco said:
Then I might see if I can get someone to machine a rod in order to check the crank for proper indexing. Unfortunately the crank I'm using is an unknown quantity and it has me wondering what state it's in.
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If you are not sure of the condition of the crank and it out of a motor then I would send it to Stanley Gardner he is a really good guy and not to far from you in Maine. His # is 207-664-0377. It is around $800 to a complete rebuild on a 4 cylinder crank but it will be better than new.
 
blowerbike said:
i make a funny...lol
i'm good...there's a few good head building guys local to me
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Do you know a guy name Gary Dye he is a good head builder in Ohio he does the heads for Dale Walker Holeshot Preformance now. Not quite as good as me but I am the best. Did I mention I got a big ego too.
 
There was a guy by the name of Ray Belluci that did it. I talked to him about it when I first got our balancer. All I remember is it was a PITA to do, so I decided against it and stuck with plain bearing cranks.
 
stetracer said:
Do you know a guy name Gary Dye he is a good head builder in Ohio he does the heads for Dale Walker Holeshot Preformance now. Not quite as good as me but I am the best. Did I mention I got a big ego too.
Click to expand...

yes the name is familiar but i have never met the man.
 
The 1150 crank isn't really "welded", it has spot welds on it to keep the throws from shifting. When you get a Falicon or comparable job done they weld completely around the join between the throws and the crank pins. The older GS motors didn't even have that. I still think making sure you have enough clean oil that doesn't get too hot is the real problem with this and most oil cooled motors. I sure would like just a little less "buzz in the bars" though, since my 1150 is so supple in other rev ranges.
 
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