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Cranks but won't start - at a loss

  • Thread starter Thread starter ekabil
  • Start date Start date
E

ekabil

Guest
Hi folks, got a 82 GS1100GL. Been a while since I've posted on here because my bike started working and charging nicely after I replaced everything in the charging system. Unfortunately, this morning, my bike would not start.

Yesterday I rode it to a job interview and back, about 30 miles each way. I live in SC, so it was very hot. But traffic was flowing and the ride was good. Bike did very well. I did gas it hard a couple times on some of the curvier parts of the interstate because its fun ( only when no traffic of course ). But had no difficulties.

Until this morning. I should mention that the starter motor and switch can be finnicky. If the bike has been running and is hot, it will not start because it cranks very very slow and the voltage on the battery drops down to 9 while cranking. For example, if I stop for gas after a bit of riding, I have to push start it. If the engine is cold, the bike will start on the first crank usually. And it cranks nice and fast, and the voltage drops to 10 or so. This is normal I believe.

SO anyway back to this morning, the bike just cranks and cranks and will not start. Voltage only drops to 10. (all voltages are across the battery terminals)

When I tried to push start it, I noticed that it was much harder to push than normal. Even in 2nd. Even with a friend, we could not get it rolling fast at all. Definitely not enough to get a good start - when we had it going in 2nd, I dropped the clutch and opened the throttle nearly all the way and only got a couple whimpers.

Note: sometimes when I am getting it started I barely open the throttle, and it seems to make it crank a little faster and get it started. This did not work today - it cranked faster but still did not start. When I had a honda shadow 750 I used to wail on the throttle to get it started in the winter with good results. I have heard not to do this on these bikes, and I haven't wailed on it, just opened a hair's breadth. But whats the difference in these and my old honda?

And what the heck is keeping my bike from starting and/or making it so hard to push in gear?
 
ekabil said:
When I tried to push start it, I noticed that it was much harder to push than normal. Even in 2nd. Even with a friend, we could not get it rolling fast at all. Definitely not enough to get a good start - when we had it going in 2nd, I dropped the clutch and opened the throttle nearly all the way and only got a couple whimpers.

And what the heck is keeping my bike from starting and/or making it so hard to push in gear?
Click to expand...

Are you saying your push starting it in gear?:confused:
 
nejeff said:
Are you saying your push starting it in gear?:confused:
Click to expand...
Let's hope not, but maybe he's training for the Olympics!

Mr. ekabil said
".... I should mention that the starter motor and switch can be finnicky"

Your starter motor is calling for attention- something is changing after it gets hot sitting in crankcase.
 
I agree, if your battery is in good shape and it is pulling that much current something is amiss in your starter. Perhaps a starter rebuild is in order? That question cannot be answered until it is pulled and disassembled.
 
tom203 said:
Let's hope not, but maybe he's training for the Olympics!

Mr. ekabil said
".... I should mention that the starter motor and switch can be finnicky"
Click to expand...
Well I am assuming he's not pushing it in gear but when he's says he and his buddy tried to push it and could not get it rolling fast enough and its hard to push it left me wondering. Check your calipers and make sure they are not sticking. Bike should roll fine if brakes are working correctly ( and its not in gear)
 
you need a few things to start, spark, fuel and compression, see which one is not working right and thats where your problem is
 
Sounds like your clutch might be dragging. When you're starting it and it turns over slow, are you in neutral or in gear with the clutch pulled?
 
My guess is that it's probably past time for a valve adjustment

ekabil said:
When I had a honda shadow 750 I used to wail on the throttle to get it started in the winter with good results. I have heard not to do this on these bikes, and I haven't wailed on it, just opened a hair's breadth. But whats the difference in these and my old honda?
Click to expand...
Not sure about that particular model, but many Honda have accelerator pumps on them. Twisting the throttle will add a little gas each time.

Your GS carbs do not have accelerator pumps. The "choke" is actually an "enrichener system", not a device that physically blocks (chokes) the intake throat. That system relies on the high vacuum of a closed throttle to work properly. If you open the throttle AT ALL, that high vacuum is destroyed, forcing the enginen to TRY to run on the stock jets.

.
 
Ah you aren't supposed to push it in gear to push start?

Whoops. I always heard to do it in 2nd but I could only get it to work in 1st. Harder to push it but more bang for your buck if you know what I mean.

Anyway I started the bike this afternoon after charging the battery and it started right up! The battery was fine this morning though so I don't think that was the problem.

The fact that the bike doesn't start while hot makes me think there's something up with the starter motor. But there are only 14000 miles on the bike. Seems young for a starter to die, but I've had to replace most of the other electrical so I wouldn't be surprised :P

Gonna check valves and clean carbs as soon as I get the parts in. I heard someone around here (ray?) deals in shim exchanging. Just in case I need a certain shim, does anyone know who ray is?
 
My GS did not use shims, but there is something here called the shim club. Not sure who runs it, but IIRC it is basically a shim exchange type of thing. Perhaps a title search for "shim Club"?
 
To push start a bike, you start in neutral. Get going up to speed, pull in the clutch, pop it into second gear and let out the clutch. There is too much drag to try to push it whilst already in gear. Gotta start in neutral then pop. And use second gear, not first. Much easier.
 
When I start the bike normally it's always in neutral. And though I removed the clutch safety circuit I still pull in the clutch out of habit and just in case it isn't in neutral for some reason

Koolaid, if your bike doesn't have shims, how do you adjust valve clearances?
 
The 4 valve motors came with a screw and nut arrangement. Much, much easier to adjust.
 
Have you load tested your battery to make sure it's good? Is your wiring in shape?
 
koolaid_kid said:
My GS did not use shims, but there is something here called the shim club. Not sure who runs it, but IIRC it is basically a shim exchange type of thing. Perhaps a title search for "shim Club"?
Click to expand...

GhostGS1 runs the Shim Club and you can find his thread in the GS Services section
 
Sad update: no cranking :( Had the same problem, where it would crank and crank and not start. So I charged the battery for several hours, tried to start it. It gave me one good run of cranking, and then stopped. Next time I tried to crank, it barely moved and voltage went down to 9 (like it does when I used to try and start it when the engine was hot).

Now all I am getting is a solid click from the solenoid when I press the start button. No voltage drop, so its like the starter motor isnt even trying. When I short the terminals, I get *nothing*. Not even a peep. That means the solenoid is good right? Sounds like a connection problem at the starter, although I just cleaned and lubed and tightened that connection two months ago.

Or I guess it could be the starter. But I thought I would at least get SOMETHING when I shorted the solenoid. But nothing at all. This weekend I am going to recheck the connections I guess, man I really hope its not that starter. This bike is a cash hog.

Now, since shorting the solenoid does nothing, not even sparks, that means it is definitely a connection problem, right? Otherwise I would at least get sparks when I connect the two terminals.
 
Last edited:
Hi,

It sounds like your battery is dead. Have you had it load tested?

Tight valve clearances will cause hard starting. Neglected valves will burn and kill an engine. When was the last time the valves were adjusted? They should be checked every 4000 miles.

What maintenance have you done to the bike? Have you cleaned ALL of the electrical connections and grounds?

When was the last time you serviced the braking system? A neglected braking system can allow water into the lines. When it heats up it can lock the brakes at unexpected times. :eek:

It's a 30 year old machine. What maintenance have you done to it?

You can buy a cheap solenoid from most hardware stores. Get one for use on a lawn tractor (riding lawn mower), should cost about $15.

As for the Shim Club, see the post in the GS Parts and Services section: GS Valve Shim Club

Have you done all of the necessary maintenance to ensure the bike is safe and reliable?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I have restored the charging system, cleaned the ignition wiring, and changed the oil.

In one week I will be doing valve adjustment and carb rebuild. Maybe valves this weekend, if it stops raining. Tires are new looking, brakes work well although you're right I need to really look at them. Fork seals were recently replaced and clutch springs as well.

I am having to learn all these things in my spare time so it's slow. But I am trying to stick to the maintenance and 10 newbie mistake guides.

But I don't get why the starter would cease to function so suddenly. One minute it was cranking nicely, the next I'm just getting a big click from the solenoid. Later today or tomorrow I'm going to check the connection to starter. If it stops raining :)
 
ekabil said:
Tires are new looking, ...
Click to expand...

But did you look in the right place? :-k

Check the date code at the end of the DOT information on the sidewall.

I have seen tires that "looked new", still had all the mold "tips" on them, but were over 10 years old. Those tires were NOT "new".

.
 
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