cranks no start

[KGB]

So I go for anice leisurely ride this afternoo.
1980 GS1000S..put it on the battery charger for about 1-1/2 hours at 2 amp. Turn the key, fires right up.
Ride about 15 miles, some highway, amybe 5 miles.
Come off the ramp, no signals..think fuse blown.
Continue riding down 2 laner, about 45 mph for about 10 miles or so.
Pull into the gas station to check fuses,,,,,hmmmm no headlight either....
check ALL the fuses, look ok except after re-seating, still no headlight.
Pull the headlight fuse, just for the hell of it turn on the key, dash is very bright.
Replace headlight fuse, dash lit, but dim, bike still won't start......nothing, starter never attempts to engage.
Put the screw driver across the solenoid, bike cranks......won't start.
Yes, the clutch was pulled in, side stand up, (it was on the center stand)
So it cranks but won't fire. Cranks hard, like it wants to start.
No volt meter to check anything.....just hope.

Coils? But both going at once? I'm a little stumped and haven't delved in deep yet.

Any ideas?


Make a bunch of phone calls....no one around with a pickup truck.
Get my buddy to meet me with his Suburban and a long lenght of rope and tow it 15+ miles home.

 

[earlfor]

Re: cranks no start

Since if you put a screwdriver across the solenoid, the starter cranks the engine, we know there is power available to the starter and the solenoid.
What you lack is power to energize the solenoid. Cranking and not starting/firing means you also have lost power to the coils. 12 V + comes from the ignition switch when the key is turned on, then goes through the clutch switch, then the kill switch, through the kickstand lockout switch, then goes to the starter button and branches off to the coils.

I would take a bet the problem is with the clutch lockout switch, or the kickstand lockout switch. The clutch lockout switch has two wires coming from it that run into the headlight shell. Go into the headlight shell, follow the two wires and where they plug in, install a jumper to temp bypass the switch. Turn the ignition on and see if the starter button work. If it does, you found your problem. If it does not, leave the clutch switch jumper in place and locate where the two wires for the sidestand switch go. Do the same with those two wires. I suspect you will find the problem with one or the other switches. Also, there is a 6 wire plug inside the headlight shell that is prone to corrosion and consequent shorting. That may be the cause of your lights going very dim.

The bike would not start if both coils had gone bad, but that would not have any effect on the lights, or the starter.

Earl

So I go for anice leisurely ride this afternoo.
1980 GS1000S..put it on the battery charger for about 1-1/2 hours at 2 amp. Turn the key, fires right up.
Ride about 15 miles, some highway, amybe 5 miles.
Come off the ramp, no signals..think fuse blown.
Continue riding down 2 laner, about 45 mph for about 10 miles or so.
Pull into the gas station to check fuses,,,,,hmmmm no headlight either....
check ALL the fuses, look ok except after re-seating, still no headlight.
Pull the headlight fuse, just for the hell of it turn on the key, dash is very bright.
Replace headlight fuse, dash lit, but dim, bike still won't start......nothing, starter never attempts to engage.
Put the screw driver across the solenoid, bike cranks......won't start.
Yes, the clutch was pulled in, side stand up, (it was on the center stand)
So it cranks but won't fire. Cranks hard, like it wants to start.
No volt meter to check anything.....just hope.

Coils? But both going at once? I'm a little stumped and haven't delved in deep yet.

Any ideas?


Make a bunch of phone calls....no one around with a pickup truck.
Get my buddy to meet me with his Suburban and a long lenght of rope and tow it 15+ miles home.

 

[Anonymous]

I bet if you recharge the batt it will start 8O sounds like you just had a suffice charge on the batt, not enough for the bikes charging sys. to keep up with the draw of lights & running, If batt was dead you need to charge at 2amps for 12hrs & check batt condition

 

[earlfor]

Jumping the contacts on the starter solenoid aqnd having the starter turn the engine over briskly confirms that there is sufficient charge in the battery. It takes a lot less power to run the ignition than it does the starter.

Earl

I bet if you recharge the batt it will start

 

[lhanscom]

Also, if your positive to the coils is bad, both coils will go at the same time.

 

[Anonymous]

Jumping the contacts on the starter solenoid aqnd having the starter turn the engine over briskly confirms that there is sufficient charge in the battery. It takes a lot less power to run the ignition than it does the starter.

Earl

I bet if you recharge the batt it will start

Earl is correct I some how did;nt see that it did crank over good , sorry :!: