• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Crankshafts

earlfor

earlfor

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
Charter Member
Anyone know if the 1100 and 1150 crankshafts are the same?

Earl
 
Re: Crankshafts

earlfor said:
Anyone know if the 1100 and 1150 crankshafts are the same?

Earl
Click to expand...

I know that all the 1100 cranks are not the same. The '80 crank is different from the '81 crank (has an oil feed passage that was removed in the '81 crank) and I believe that the flywheel taper was changed in '82.

There are also differences between the piston pin diameters...some have 18mm while others have 20mm, I believe.

My understanding is that the basic crank (not including the con rods) is the same from 83 to end of production of the GS1150.

Hap
 
Re: Crankshafts

Thanks Hap. So youre saying the cranks from 1983 until 1986 (end of production 1150) would be the same. I thought it was all 1100's that had the 18mm pins and all the 1150's had 20 mm pins. That wouldnt make any difference though as far as the crankshaft fitting.

I'm thinking you could replace an 1150 crankshaft with one from an 83 1100 and swap 1150 pistons, rods, jugs, topend onto it.

Also then, if one wanted to swap an 80 1100 crank into an 85 1150, then it appears you could swap the 1150 pistons, rods, jugs and topend onto that, but you would also have to swap the starter clutch and stator assembly due to a different crankshaft taper. I would guess the ignition side of the crank would be the same on both years.

Earl

Earl[/quote]

I know that all the 1100 cranks are not the same. The '80 crank is different from the '81 crank (has an oil feed passage that was removed in the '81 crank) and I believe that the flywheel taper was changed in '82.

There are also differences between the piston pin diameters...some have 18mm while others have 20mm, I believe.

My understanding is that the basic crank (not including the con rods) is the same from 83 to end of production of the GS1150.

Hap[/quote]
 
There is another difference as well. The '81-'83 (non ES) cranks have a smaller taper on the flywheel end. The '83 ES and the 1150 cranks have a larger taper on the flywheel end; I think the larger one is 29mm at the straight section adjacant to the seal and the smaller one is 25mm but I'm not at all confident in this number.

This change was made because of some failures where the flywheel's mass twisted the end off of the smaller ones.

I'm sure of the larger taper for the indicated models, just not sure of the size.

All 4v 1100s were 18mm wristpin and all 1150s were 20mm wristpins. So the '83 1100ES had the 1150 taper and the 1100 rods. I know because I had one setup for a remote starter at the dragstrip and learned this all the hard way.
 
Thanks, much appreciated. I'm beginning to get a handle on this. LOL

Earl

massakins said:
There is another difference as well. The '81-'83 (non ES) cranks have a smaller taper on the flywheel end. The '83 ES and the 1150 cranks have a larger taper on the flywheel end; I think the larger one is 29mm at the straight section adjacant to the seal and the smaller one is 25mm but I'm not at all confident in this number.

This change was made because of some failures where the flywheel's mass twisted the end off of the smaller ones.

I'm sure of the larger taper for the indicated models, just not sure of the size.

All 4v 1100s were 18mm wristpin and all 1150s were 20mm wristpins. So the '83 1100ES had the 1150 taper and the 1100 rods. I know because I had one setup for a remote starter at the dragstrip and learned this all the hard way.
Click to expand...
 
This is correct the change in the cranks was for the 83 model, the size of the journal of the starter gear was increased from 31mm to 35 mm, the taper for the stator rotor was changed from 1in 5 to 1 in 7, this was done at the same time as the introduction of welded crankpins (BTW this was only the pins either side of the primary drive gear) and as has been pointed out 1150's run 20mm little ends, whereas 1100's run 18mm , the primary gear is a different ratio between 1100 and 1150 so you would also need to swap clutch baskets. you can get 1150 bore size pistons to fit 1100 little ends so you do not need to swap rods.
Dink
 
Wow this conversation sounds a little familiar to me Earl..Please tell me you arent in the same boat as I......I know I am still searching for a gooddeal..Havent found one less that 650$ for a used unknown condition 1150 crank :(
 
NO Keith, my 1150 is fine. It doesnt need anything. I just thought I would explore alternative possibilities for solving your problem. :-) I still collecting info at the moment. :-) I have some thoughts, but I need to do some checking to be sure of what can and cant be done. heh heh Say hello to "mini fuzz" for me. LOL

Earl


bybowtie said:
Wow this conversation sounds a little familiar to me Earl..Please tell me you arent in the same boat as I......I know I am still searching for a gooddeal..Havent found one less that 650$ for a used unknown condition 1150 crank :(
Click to expand...
 
phewwww. I thought you were in for it too... BTW the engine is about 80% tore apart. Complete topend off just need to remove it from the chassis, building up for that lol.... Its interesting that askeda similar question like this quite some time ago and got not thorough answers, followup questions I think were the kicker... Thanks for the help sometimes you just need to know what you need to ask to get answers you need....

P.S hands on your head, turn around and throw me the keys...
You are under arrest and I am confiscating your motorcylce..!!!!
Carrie AKA mini-fuzz !!
 
Well Keith, I think there is a lot of truth to the old saying of having to ask the right question. I've certainly escaped wifey's scorn on more than one occasion by answering exactly what she asked. :-) :-) :-)

Fortunately, being all the way down south in Fl, I am beyond the reach of those sticky little fuzzy fingers. :-) :-) :-) (good try Carrie, but no Teddy Bear for you) :-)

Earl

bybowtie said:
phewwww. I thought you were in for it too... BTW the engine is about 80% tore apart. Complete topend off just need to remove it from the chassis, building up for that lol.... Its interesting that askeda similar question like this quite some time ago and got not thorough answers, followup questions I think were the kicker... Thanks for the help sometimes you just need to know what you need to ask to get answers you need....

P.S hands on your head, turn around and throw me the keys...
You are under arrest and I am confiscating your motorcylce..!!!!
Carrie AKA mini-fuzz !!
Click to expand...
 
Are you sure that it wouldn't be quicker/easier/less painful/cheaper to have Falicon repair your existing crank? They are in Florida and have a reputation for good work. Stan Gardner of GRC has a very good rep as well. $650 will repair a crank sometimes and these guys will tell you exactly what you have when they're done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top