Crapped valve

[rtuite]

Last summer, my bike started sputtering, stalling, and generally running poorly. I rebuilt & cleaned the carbs, three times, each more thoroughly than the last. Still running crappy, I checked compression, and found cyl#4 leaking into the exhaust. I have a ton of money in this bike, 3X what I will ever see out of it and can't put much more into it. I have not had the head off yet to confirm, but a burnt valve is the only explanation I can come up with.

Anyone know where I can get the valve and head gasket cheap (or at least not too expensive)? Or should I just part this bike out and cut my losses? The only thing this bike will need once the motor is running is some seals for the front forks, some body work (that I really don't care about) and an oil change.

 

[Steve]

Last summer, my bike started sputtering, stalling, and generally running poorly. I rebuilt & cleaned the carbs, three times, each more thoroughly than the last. Still running crappy, I checked compression, and found cyl#4 leaking into the exhaust. I have a ton of money in this bike, 3X what I will ever see out of it and can't put much more into it. I have not had the head off yet to confirm, but a burnt valve is the only explanation I can come up with.

Anyone know where I can get the valve and head gasket cheap (or at least not too expensive)? Or should I just part this bike out and cut my losses? The only thing this bike will need once the motor is running is some seals for the front forks, some body work (that I really don't care about) and an oil change.

First of all, Welcome to GSR.

Now, since this is your first post and nobody knows anything about you or your bike, ...

WHAT BIKE ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT???

.

 

[DanTheMan]

And, have you ever checked valve clearances/lash adjustment (depending on the bike, of course).

 

[Steve]

And, have you ever checked valve clearances/lash adjustment (depending on the bike, of course).

They ALL need to be checked. Only the method changes.

.

 

[tkent02]

What these guys aren't explaining, the valve clearances tend to tighten with miles, as the valves recede into the head the clearance between the valve stem and the cam gets smaller.
Thinner shims or turning the screw adjuster is required to maintain the correct clearance, depending on which model GS you have.

If it isn't done, the clearance gets to zero, the valves don't shut completely, and the bike starts to run poorly, a compression test will read low. Keep going and a burnt valve is sure to follow.

Hopefully you caught it in time and it's just an adjustment problem.

 

[Nessism]

There are lots of people about with spare engine parts but obviously, the model of bike is necessary.

Unfortunately, burned valves are common with GS bikes because so many people neglect the maintenance. GS Suzuki's have seriously tough engines and will typically run over 100,000 miles with proper maintenance. Neglect the valves though and the engine will crap out in less than 20k.

 

[rtuite]

Sorry, dumb moment.

Sorry, dumb moment.

The bike is a 1986 GS 550 ES. Valve lash is the first thing I checked after reading low compression on that cylinder.

Sorry, I had a dumb moment. I forgot model and such. I was a member before. but had not logged in for a while so my account got deleted.

 

[rtuite]

Nobody?

Nobody?

No clues where I can get the valve(s) and gaskets to finish this? Or is the silence to mean I should scuttle the bike?

 

[Nessism]

No clues where I can get the valve(s) and gaskets to finish this? Or is the silence to mean I should scuttle the bike?

Why not post in ad in the Parts Wanted forum?

 

[rtuite]

I did at one point, last fall. I wanted to get this done over the winter, but nobody replied. I suppose I can post another. Can't hurt right? Either that or post the parts for sale.