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cv carb related questions and jet kit questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter kilog55
  • Start date Start date
K

kilog55

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ok on the carb guide here it shows the idle adjust screw on carb #3 mine was on #2 does this matter? when i reassemble i will put it on #3 just so i can reference the guide easier.

also the PO added a fuel filter in the hose to the carbs which was installed backwards arrow was pointing towards the tank not the carbs. i know this matters a bit.

also my carbs were very clean on the insides which was a nice surprise but i am dippin them anyways and the new formula chem-dip is doing a nice job so far even taking off oxidation and making the carbs shiney :clap: so i should be able to buttin everything up when my o rings and gaskets get here. i am also doing the stage 3 jet kit.

now i see a snap ring on the cv boot unit i assume i need to remove this in order to install the dynojet needles? this is the only part i am stumped on.
 
The idle speed adjustment is attached to #3 carb. There is no way you can just "move it to #2" and have it work. Just be sure you are counting the carb order correctly. #1 is under your clutch hand, #4 is under your throttle hand. In manuals and other publications, the convention is that all references to left and right are made as if you are sitting on the bike, ready to ride.

Why are you doing the Stage 3? Your signature says your bike is stock. If you leave it stock, a Stage 1 might wake it up a bit, but it won't run right with a Stage 3 unless you have pod filters and/or a header installed.

Fuel filters can be enough of a problem without installing them backward. The only problem encountered by installing them backward is the limited area for collecting crud. Fuel is meant to flow from the outside of the filter media to the inside so you can see how much crud there is.

The other common problem with filters is use of the wrong filter. Most automotive filters have rather restrictive media because there is a pump that will push the fuel through the filter. Our bikes only have gravity as a pump, so we need a freer-flowing filter. Best place to look is the lawn mower section at Lowe's or your favorite auto parts store.

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ahh ok then the adjuster was on the right carb i must have labeled em wrong/backwards i was goin off memory and got it backwards so ill just swap out the parts in the bags i only tore down and dipped 2 so far so 4 and 3 are dipped. 1 and 2 are complete.

i am doin stage 3 cause i am adding pods and a 4-1 V&H

so i should probly just get a length of 5/16th hose for the fuel line if i plan to go filter less. i thought the cv carb ran off vacuum so i could use a inline fuel filter?
 
I bought my fuel filter from the dealership only $5 or so, you can get proper fuel line there as well. I bought clear line so I could see if there was fuel in there and flowing. The snap ring on the inside of the slide needs to come out to change needles. I just use a small pair of needle nose pliers with small enough ends to grip the rings. You can buy proper snap ring pliers. Put you thumb or something over the slide hole when to attempt to remove the snap rings as they tend to like to fly away if you lose grip on them.
 
alrighty ill be borrowing a set of circlip pliers tomorrow off a buddy. and changing them out in wait for my orings and gaskets.

then all i have to do is try to sync everything up
 
A long pair of needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight does just fine to get that circlip out. Bring the carb with you to fit the right pliers.
 
kilog55 said:
.... i thought the cv carb ran off vacuum so i could use a inline fuel filter?
Click to expand...
Actually, ALL carbs "run off vacuum", but that's not what pulls the gas through the line. :|

Gas flows down the hose, then is allowed into the float bowls when the float level drops a bit, then is stopped when the floats rise and block the opening. It is only gravity that gets the gas moving into the bowls.

Air moving through the carb throat, across the various jets will draw fuel through the jets into the airstream. How much air flows through the carb depends on how far open the throttle is. In the case of VM-series carbs, a slide is lifted to enlarge the opening. In the BS-series carbs (also known as CV carbs) a butterfly valve is opened to allow more air, but the intake is partially blocked by the slide that is attached to the diaphragm. There is a hole in the bottom of that slide, and when enough air is moving under the slide to cause a vacuum, that vacuum also reduces the pressure above the diaphragm, lifting the slide to enlarge the carb throat opening. This prevents starvation due to sudden throttle openings, giving better throttle response for average street use.

5/16" fuel line is OK to use, but you will have to use clamps to keep it from leaking. A better choice is to get OEM hose, which is 7 mm. It is also thinner-walled tubing, making it more flexible and easier to handle.

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