CV Flatsides pilot jet size and fuel screw turns

[stain]

Yes they are 0-8 but I bought them from Factory pro. The stock ones were so far worn I don't know how the previous bike even idled!!
Should I try to get some intake boots to level the carbs or do you think I can work with the float adjustments enough to get them correct? Did any GSXR come with BDST's?

 

[posplayr]

Yes they are 0-8 but I bought them from Factory pro. The stock ones were so far worn I don't know how the previous bike even idled!!
Should I try to get some intake boots to level the carbs or do you think I can work with the float adjustments enough to get them correct? Did any GSXR come with BDST's?

Yea Factory pro kits use the stock emulation tubes.

I mentioned already all GSXR 2nd gen 1100's (89-92) are BST

 

[stain]

But what did the BDST come on, if any, Suzuki's ? Does anyone have a picture of the BST mounted on a GS1000/1100?
Also how big a role does the MAJ play? Facory pro makes no mention of it in there jet kit.

 

[posplayr]

But what did the BDST come on, if any, Suzuki's ? Does anyone have a picture of the BST mounted on a GS1000/1100?
Also how big a role does the MAJ play? Facory pro makes no mention of it in there jet kit.

I think I would find some BST's and swap your parts into them.

I think the MAJ causes changes in the MJ (they must be kept somewhat in proportion).

I plan on drilling my GSXR 750's out to 1.5mm so the main will remain at about 147.5 Mikuni

 

[stain]

I think if I am going to spring more money for carbs they will be the RS type--

 

[Tomas03]

I primarily did the 750/1100 GSXR Sling carbs. The most pronounced pattern I see here is:

Main jets for stage 3 1100 are about 145 (Mikuni) 155 (Djet)

Main Air jet is 1.5 mm v.s. 0.5 for 1100 and 750 respectively but on the 1990-92 750 they increased both teh main jet and the MAJ to #127.5 and 0.9/1.2 mm where typically it would have been #112.5 and 0.5mm. So if the MAJ is smaller, then you would need a correspondingly smaller MJ. I see this seems to match your numbers were you probably had a MAJ=0.5 and ended up with a small 140 DJ main (130 Mikuni).

As far as needles are concerned about being different, I have compared the
DJ 3122.008 kit for 88-89 and Cal 90-92 GSXR 750 kit with the
DJ 3136.003 kit for 89-92 GSXR 1100 and they are identical except for larger mains in the 1100 (160/155 v.s 144/140) and there is no emulsion tubes in the 3122.008 kit.

Both 3122 and 3136 use the exact same needles (DNO356) and there is hardly any taper to them. .

Sorry for any misunderstanding but I did not use any DJ stuff. My mains, 140, are mikuni. Any comparisons I make are between factory stuff. The needles were so different the 750 needles wouldn;t fit in the 1100 emulsion tube. There was a 10mm difference in needle length, the 750 needles have 2 tapers (one big one small) the 1100's only one fine taper all the way. Your own chart is good and shows the differences. (the letter ID on the needle is the taper)
I left the 750 main air jets (got lucky there) and just changed to the 90 model 1100 emulsion tube and needle, and along with the 140 main that did the trick, running pods.
To answer your question about what is the easiest way to tell what carb you have - take out the emulsion tubes and they will tell you. Go from there.
Before doing this I did heaps of research of which I've forgotten most and there is no need for a stage 3 kit.
I have to reiterate that after I did this and synced the carbs, the bike went like hell and it was my daily ride that I rode everywhere without any problems.

 

[posplayr]

Sorry for any misunderstanding but I did not use any DJ stuff. My mains, 140, are mikuni. Any comparisons I make are between factory stuff. The needles were so different the 750 needles wouldn;t fit in the 1100 emulsion tube. There was a 10mm difference in needle length, the 750 needles have 2 tapers (one big one small) the 1100's only one fine taper all the way. Your own chart is good and shows the differences. (the letter ID on the needle is the taper)
I left the 750 main air jets (got lucky there) and just changed to the 90 model 1100 emulsion tube and needle, and along with the 140 main that did the trick, running pods.
To answer your question about what is the easiest way to tell what carb you have - take out the emulsion tubes and they will tell you. Go from there.
Before doing this I did heaps of research of which I've forgotten most and there is no need for a stage 3 kit.
I have to reiterate that after I did this and synced the carbs, the bike went like hell and it was my daily ride that I rode everywhere without any problems.

Thanks for clairifying I'm trying to sort out different reports by people.

A couple of Questions:

You started with a Australian set of GSXR 750 carbs?

Are you having needle/jet wear issues?

How many miles on your bike?

Looks like yours is a vintage racer and not much street riding where the needle rattle is worse.

 

[Tomas03]

Vintage Racer/Road Bike

Vintage Racer/Road Bike

The vintage racer has mikuni smoothbores

The BST's went on my road bike. Unfortunately I found it necessary to sell my girl after I did all that work, but before doing so, and after putting about 6000 miles on it I checked the carbs (because I took them off and still have them in the shed). They were fine.

I know where you're coming from though as all the guys in my race club who race gsxr's complain about he emulsion tubes wearing out and going out of round.

By the way have you checked out http://www.theflyingbanana.com/gsxrcarbies.htm. The owner of this site was my sounding board when I was going thru my trials and tribulations. It was his idea to check emulsion tubes as they might be worn. They weren't worn.

 

[Tomas03]

You started with a Australian set of GSXR 750 carbs?.

Whilst jabbering away forgot to answer Yes. But the innards are the same as the UK one on your chart.

 

[stain]

You kept the 0.5 MAJ and ran the the larger mains for the 1100--correct? Did you tune with the MAJ at all and what differences did it make? I am fighting some inconsistant idleing on my BST's ( yes finally determined they were BST's ) and was wondering the role of the MAJ.
It's hard to compare tuning with the Dyno-jet stuff and Mikuni parts due to the diffences in the jet needle and needle jet. I am going to stick with all mikuni parts for now

 

[posplayr]

You kept the 0.5 MAJ and ran the the larger mains for the 1100--correct? Did you tune with the MAJ at all and what differences did it make? I am fighting some inconsistant idleing on my BST's ( yes finally determined they were BST's ) and was wondering the role of the MAJ.
It's hard to compare tuning with the Dyno-jet stuff and Mikuni parts due to the diffences in the jet needle and needle jet. I am going to stick with all mikuni parts for now

I have been studying the various setup for all of these GSXR1100/750 configurations between most all years and I think I have come to more of an understanding(for now at least), been reading the Sudco catalog on theory of operation and talking to Chef1366 and here are my conclusions.

You can make a GSXR 750 BST36SS work easy enough on a GS 1000-1100. Most of the differences in carb setup are a result of fine tuning.

In the Sudco catalog is shows a standard tuning spec for a RS36 for all GSXR750 88-92 and GSXR 1100 87-92 and GS1000-1500 as using the same carburetor the main difference the GSXR 750 used a 120 main and all others are 130 main.

NOTE after disassembling a 3rd set of running BST36SS 17D40 (1990 GSXR 750 CA carbs) I have posted the results in the attachment.

I have two sets of BST36SS carbs (1989 CA GSXR 750 17C40 from a Hot GSXR 750 and 1990 CA GSXR 17D40 from by modified GSXR 1100G with pods and 4:1) ,

Both these carbs are setup very similarly to Tomas03's, both have FP 3 mm needles on the 3rd notch from the top, both use Y-5 needle jets, Both have MAJ 0.5, Pilot Jet 32.5 (the 17C40 has Pilot Air Jet 1.45 not sure about the 17D40).

If you have a GSXR750 carb, use a GSXR750 jet kit to tune it in. I'm not sure whether trying to make a GSXR 1100 carb run better with a GSXR 750 carb kit, but you are probably making life harder for yourself.

Tomas03 did take a GSXR750 carb (Aussie Spec) and adapt it to his GS1134 using OEM grooved needle 5E56-3rd and the OEM 0-9 jet that goes with it then that is a good alternative (again a 2.5mm needle/jet combination). The GSXR 750 needle Jets are 3mm (Y-5) as well as the FP and Dynao Jet needles.

 

[miket]

I have been studying the various setup for all of these GSXR1100/750 configurations between most all years and I think I have come to a final conclusion, been reading the Sudco catalog on theory of operation and talking to Chef1366 and here are my conclusions.

You can make a GSXR 750 BST36SS work easy enough on a GSXR 1100. Most of the differences in carb setup are a result of fine tuning.

In the Sudco catalog is shows a standard tuning spec for a RS36 for all GSXR750 88-92 and GSXR 1100 87-92 and GS1000-1500 as using the same carburetor the main difference the GSXR 750 used a 120 main and all others are 130 main.

So my conclusion:

If you live outside of the US or can get the OEM grooved needle 5E56-3rd and the OEM 0-9 jet that goes with it then that is a good alternative and fairly inexpensive(what Tomas03 did).

If you are from the US (or can't get foreign kit) then you are limited to needles without grooves (unless you can buy the OEM kit from Sudco with the grooves???). The only two remain options are DJ and Factory Pro.

Factory pro uses Mikuni Needle jets and in fact manufacture a nickle plated Mikuni jet replacement (to reduce wear of the jets)

This is the kit that Factory Pro sells it includes #0985h-68t.2_std Needles which seems to work most places except Colorado which likes the #0985h-72t2.

I'm not sure if these are available in Titanium but the do make others for another kit that are.



In addition they sell Nickle Plated Needle jets for about the same price as OEM but should be more durable

CRZ-EMU-100102k
$96 / 4pcs

The Dynojet 1366 kit includes both emulsion tubes and needles. They come in both stainless and aluminum. Not sure which combination wears longer. The condition of the carb slide inserts has a big effect as they are designed to capture the slide at the bottom of the travel but they get worn and allow for slop which cause the needles to bang around more.

I'm in a quandary because i already have so many Dynajet needles/kits . Also Factory Pro says they will not sell jet Kits in CA anymore Maybe they still sell Jet Needles and Emulsion tubes?

Otherwise Tomas03 had a basically stock GS1100E save for a 1144 overbore kit 4:1 and pods. He used the Aussie jets/needles and 140 MJ and 37.5 Pilot with the MAJ=0.5 (from GS750) and 2 trund out. He seemed pleased.

I ordered 3166 kit should have tommorrow Stock gs 1100 1983 This will be my starting point 135 mikuni mains. 32.5 pilots 4th clip from top 2 1/4 air screw.Not sure what the deal is on pluging slide holes,Mine appear to be tapped already? stock? (No plugs)89 gsxr 1100 bst carbs

 

[stain]

If your slide holes are tapped it might have had a Dyno jet kit at one time.
I just went for a highway test drive and results are
147.5 Mains, 37.5 pilots, needles all the way up. 1.5 MAJ. I had to go 4turns out on my fuel screw to get a good idle which tells me I might need a 40 pilot. Small stumble on the bottom less than 3k rpm. Runs really well midrange and a little rich on top. Plugs on the dark side. Next step is to probaly drop a main jet size and tune from there. I might also drop my needle 1 clip

 

[posplayr]

I ordered 3166 kit should have tommorrow Stock gs 1100 1983 This will be my starting point 135 mikuni mains. 32.5 pilots 4th clip from top 2 1/4 air screw.Not sure what the deal is on pluging slide holes,Mine appear to be tapped already? stock? (No plugs)89 gsxr 1100 bst carbs

The Dynojet (Whoops EDITed to correct part#) 3136
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3136.pdf
kit includes both emulsion tubes and needles. They come in both stainless and aluminum.

Sorry If I got you to order the wrong part but there is no part 3166 Dynajet .

 

[miket]

If your slide holes are tapped it might have had a Dyno jet kit at one time.
I just went for a highway test drive and results are
147.5 Mains, 37.5 pilots, needles all the way up. 1.5 MAJ. I had to go 4turns out on my fuel screw to get a good idle which tells me I might need a 40 pilot. Small stumble on the bottom less than 3k rpm. Runs really well midrange and a little rich on top. Plugs on the dark side. Next step is to probaly drop a main jet size and tune from there. I might also drop my needle 1 clip

Maybe i should start at 140 mains?Stock 1100 16 v motor.
Droping your needle to 4th ?Your running 8 valve with head work?What is the purpose of pluging slide holes?

 

[posplayr]

What is the purpose of pluging slide holes?

Changes the slide response. Dyna recommends 1 holes plugged for aggressive riding

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3136.pdf

(Fig. A). Screw the white plastic correctors (DCO351) into the tapped
holes. If correctors do not go flush, cut excess off with a razor blade.

NOTE: For racing or hard street riding, remove one corrector from each

slide for better acceleration.

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[stain]

Maybe i should start at 140 mains?Stock 1100 16 v motor.
Droping your needle to 4th ?Your running 8 valve with head work?What is the purpose of pluging slide holes?

I am running a Factory Pro kit. Factory Pro also recomends plugging 1 slide hole, Which I assume makes the slides rise quicker.? I was thinking of drilling the hole back out to see what happens.
My needles are currently all the way up ( rich ). i am probaly going to drop the needle 1 clip ( leaner ).
All my exhaust temps are within 20 degrees at idle with the middle cylinders a little warmer

 

[posplayr]

I disassembled my 3rd set of BST36SS carbs from my GSXR 1100G (17D40 1990 GSXR 750 CA) and updated the post and added another attachment there.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1198973&postcount=31

 

[miket]

Sorry If I got you to order the wrong part but there is no part 3166 Dynajet .

Ok 3136 made offer to orient express 110.00 shipped good deal I thought

 

[posplayr]

Ok 3136 made offer to orient express 110.00 shipped good deal I thought

That must be a closeout because it is usually much higher over $175 shipped. If doesnt work out I PM'ed u about mine.