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Cylinder #2 dead after carb rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gs1000g
  • Start date Start date
G

Gs1000g

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i didn't know if i should post this here or in the carb section. I'm leaning towards its a valve issue but i need some guidance, the bike has been running great until the last few weeks. I rode 250ish miles on Monday and noticed a miss in the bike and my mileage has dropped from 40ish to 25. I looked underneath and saw that one of the Carb bowls were leaking. I pulled the air box and yanked off the carbs. I completely disassembled them, dipped them for 24 hours, dipped all the internals. I put new gaskets, and O-rings in them. I reassembled them went to set the air fuel screw, the bike was idling perfectly so following the kool-aid kids write up I road tested it. the bike seemed to be down on power----> fast forward to today. The #2 cylinder isn't working. I took the carb back apart, cleaned it, the bowl was full of gas fyi. I hooked a spark plug up to the wire and its getting spark. Im at a loss here. I switched the 2/4 wires to see if there is a difference and nothing. I sprayed a mist of water on the pipe and it just runs off the other 3 just evaporate. I am confused.:confused::confused::confused:

Things I have done
New carb boot O rings, new airbox boots, New carb O-rings, New gaskets, New battery, New compufire r/r, ricks motorsport stator with SPG. all fluids have been changed. And i tested the petcock and its functioning properly.

Engine is a 8V gs1100

Any advice would be appreciated
 
Are you blowing the carb circuits out with can cleaner and compressed air to make sure there flowing? Through the air jets on the inlet side and through where the fuel enters the jets. Also the plug wire swaps are done with 1/4 and 2/3.
 
Does #2 EVER work? What I mean is: maybe it will idle, but not pull on the road. Or maybe it will pull on the road but not idle.

Also, when spraying fluids or air through the jets and passages, be sure to spray BACKWARD, to dislodge anything that might have gotten stuck in there. If you spray in the normal direction, you might just wedge the crap in there tighter. :oops:

.
 
If #2 spark plug is black you're petcock is bad
If it isn't check compression on 2
 
Steve #2 doesnt work at all, Sitting at idle and after riding around for 5 or so minutes I could still touch the exhaust pipe :mad:. I thought maybe if i took it down the road a few times it would break whatever loose...nope. The carbs have been blown out, after dipping and rinsing with water. I guess i could disassemble them again and dip/ blow them out again and see if anything is blocking the air vents.
Gsrick my plug wires are 2/4 1/3 i guess it doesnt matter as long as they go to the appropriate cylinder from the coil?
 
Gsrick my plug wires are 2/4 1/3 i guess it doesnt matter as long as they go to the appropriate cylinder from the coil?
If that is the way your coils are, you have other problems, too. Or a VERY unique crank in your engine. :-k

With the normal crankshaft, cylinders 1 and 4 are up at the same time, while 2 and 3 are down at that same time. With that arrangement, the coil that fires #1 cylinder HAS to fire #4. If that second plug wire is on any other plug, your engine will run like crap, if at all.

.
 
If that is the way your coils are, you have other problems, too. Or a VERY unique crank in your engine. :-k

With the normal crankshaft, cylinders 1 and 4 are up at the same time, while 2 and 3 are down at that same time. With that arrangement, the coil that fires #1 cylinder HAS to fire #4. If that second plug wire is on any other plug, your engine will run like crap, if at all.

.
my bad I just looked and it is correct 1/4 2/3, was on call last night and worked on this all day, I'm exhausted :fatigue:
 
What does the #2 plug look like? Do you have a gas smell from the vacuum line going to the petcock?
 
No gas or smell from that vacuum line, the plug is brown/tan in color. With black around the end of the threads. I bought w compression tester, it's 85-90 across all cylinders not stellar but consistent. So obviously a valve adjustment is needed. I took the carbs back off and disassembled #2 it's currently being dipped


 
When you did the compression test, did you have the throttle wide open at the time? If not, then you did it wrong and those would be typical numbers. If you did do it correctly, then 80 would be a rebuild for sure.
 
**** no I didn't. I was trying to balance the gauge crank, write down numbers ect
 
Last edited:
**** no I didn't. I was trying to balance the gauge crank, write down numbers ect

Then those number are useless.

Just open the throttle and crank with all the plugs out. The gauge should stop at peak pressure. Record it when done on each cylinder. Move to the next cylinder.

Make sure you have a charged battery.
 
Then those number are useless.

Just open the throttle and crank with all the plugs out. The gauge should stop at peak pressure. Record it when done on each cylinder. Move to the next cylinder.

Make sure you have a charged battery.

the compression checker I bought from harbor freight was defective, it wouldn't go above 90, I did all 4 of my cylinders and then did my dads running 850g.....all were 90 so it was returned and will have to wait until tomorrow to get another one
 
Well issue is fixed, i pulled gapped and checked all the plugs again, then I watched the spark again, the #2 plug was arcing from the back of the electrode, if you looked really close you can see the porcelain had a divot where i assume the spark arcd across the electrode. These were new plugs also :mad:
 
Not uncommon for brand new plugs to be defective - found it quite a bit when I was working in the shop.

ALWAYS swap the plugs around to a working cylinder as well as the leads when you are chasing these types of gremlins. Just because you can get a spark on a plug outside the cylinder doesn't mean it will fire when it's in the chamber.
 
BTW - well done and glad you found the problem :cool:
thanks, it's been a long weekend call sucks just anticipation of getting called in drives me bonkers then the bike running like a$$ also does. This all started because the gas mileage sucked resulting in a complete carb rebuild, which caused all O rings to be replaced, guess it was a blessing in disguise, there is always a silver lining right????

here were my non existent orings
no wonder my gas mileage sucked and I was losing gas somewhere and it would never idle






 
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