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Cylinder 2 Runs Perfect! But Not The Others Why???

  • Thread starter Thread starter br1amb
  • Start date Start date
Suzuki_Don said:
First of all remove the spark plugs. Place a phillips screwdriver of the correct size in the end of the spark plug lead where it normally attaches to the spark plug. Hold the metal shank of the screwdriver 1/8th to a 1/4" from cylinder head fins and crank engine. You should get a good healthy spark. If you don't then that has eliminated the spark plugs from the problem. I would then swap the wiring on the coils from the points which in effect puts the other coil to 1 & 4. If 1 & 4 then run OK the problem is with the original coil on 1 & 4.
Hope this helps. Cheers. Don.
Click to expand...

Thanks Suzuki_Don.

The connecting a screwdriver I get really weak fire. I am comparing to the fire from what you would see from 2 stroke snowmoble or a motorcycle with a cdi box.

I switched the black and white wires on the coils (black w White) and (white w black) and it wouldn't run at all. I spun it over more than 40 times and nothing. When i put the wires back to stock, (black w black) and (white with white). It started run up on 2 & 3. What does this mean?
 
Did a compression test

cylinder 1 = 145#
cylinder 2 = 135#
cylinder 3 = 149#
cylinder 4 = 140#

At least that makes me feel better.
 
do the coil relay mod. 9.2 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too low. it is considered a performance tip if your bikes runs well already.
 
Thanks for your response. I am researching the coil relay mod right now. Not quite understanding it yet. What if i have 10 volts to the headlight. Is the relay mod covering up another problem?
 
br1amb said:
Thanks for your response. I am researching the coil relay mod right now. Not quite understanding it yet. What if i have 10 volts to the headlight. Is the relay mod covering up another problem?
Click to expand...

Well, to a degree yes. It's covering up that your wiring harness and the kills switch on the right handlebar are almost 30 years old and use crappy spade connectors. You bypass all that and run a hot straight from the battery to the coils.
 
doctorgonzo said:
Well, to a degree yes. It's covering up that your wiring harness and the kills switch on the right handlebar are almost 30 years old and use crappy spade connectors. You bypass all that and run a hot straight from the battery to the coils.
Click to expand...

if you dont do the coil relay mod, you get a lot of voltage drop from old switches, old contacts, and 30 year old wiring. doctorgonzo is partially right. but, they are bad BULLET connectors that need to be replaced with SPADE connectors.
 
catbed said:
if you dont do the coil relay mod, you get a lot of voltage drop from old switches, old contacts, and 30 year old wiring. doctorgonzo is partially right. but, they are bad BULLET connectors that need to be replaced with SPADE connectors.
Click to expand...

uuuuhhhhh.......
DUH!
Little tired here.
 
Which side of the coil is the + side?

How do the coils know when to discharge. I have read many threads but something isn't clicking.
 
br1amb said:
Which side of the coil is the + side?

How do the coils know when to discharge. I have read many threads but something isn't clicking.
Click to expand...

The plus side, orange and white wires, gets power from the electrical system through the ignition switch, the kill switch, and a bunch of old crappy wires and connectors..

The negative side of the coil is grounded through the points.
When the points are closed, current flows through the coils, building up a magnetic field...
When the points open, this current stops, the magnetic field collapses, the coil discharges, and a spark is formed.


The relay mod replaces all the old switches and connectors with a relay and a few new wires, so the power going to the + side of the coil is much higher, like it was designed to be thirty years ago.
 
Last edited:
I don't know what side is the plus side. And I'm not sure if it would even matter. But the coils are trigged when the points are opened cause them to break the ground contact.

edit. I guess I should look all the way the the end of the thread. tkent did a lot better job of explaining it.
 
Hi guys

Did the coil relay update. I used a relay out of my jeep for the fog lights. Full voltage to coils. Seems to be running a little better. Replaced 4 plugs with new ones because the old ones were wet.

Checked for fire after the coil replay update and it was strong. Today not so strong. So I replaced the coil for cyl 1 & 4. (used coil) Still not running strong on all 4 cylinders. As soon as you give it gas it dies. Once it's hot then you can give it gas and it will continue to run, but it sounds like spitting sputtering etc.

While it was running i removed each spark plug wire. The bike keeps running with very little change. When you put the plug wire back on. It coughs a couple of times and then sounds a little bit better. Almost like each cylinder is barely running.

Any ideas?


 
put the old condensers back on and....it sounds way better. So one of the new condensers were bad.

Now i have a really lean condition off idle.

So I read about sealing up airbox. Which is contrary to what have done in the past. I am usually the guy drilling holes in the airbox for more power.

Just for the heck of it, I started the bike with the airbox completely removed. I then placed my hand over each of the carbs to make sure there was vacuum. Tons of vacuum at each carb. So it is running on all four.

I set the float height at 27mm. The manual said to set it between 25mm - 27mm. If it is the float height is too lean what do you recommend?


Any suggestions?
 
Last edited:
you say there is a vacuum on all 4 so it means it was running on all 4. hate to burst your bubble but it will still pull vacuum if one isnt firing.

these bikes are over-engineered to the maxx(with a double x). the airbox is specifically tuned to the bikes. did you adjust the mixture screws at all? try turning the fuel screw out a bit.
 
catbed said:
you say there is a vacuum on all 4 so it means it was running on all 4. hate to burst your bubble but it will still pull vacuum if one isnt firing.

these bikes are over-engineered to the maxx(with a double x). the airbox is specifically tuned to the bikes. did you adjust the mixture screws at all? try turning the fuel screw out a bit.
Click to expand...


Thank you for your response. You are right about vacuum. I forgot about vacuum on the down stroke.

Because it seems to be running lean. I set the float level to 25mm.

New carb settings:

Float level 25mm
Pilot Fuel screw
carb 1 .8 turns out
carb 2 1 turn out
carb 3 .75 turns out
carb 4 .90 turn out

I set them that way because that's where the factory mark is.

Pilot air screw 1.5 turns out.

Results = still runs like crab when cold. As it warms up it is sounds better than before, but when i twist the gas off idle it dies.


Question 1: I do have a crack in the back of my airbox, I will fix that tonight

Question 2: the underside of the gas tank in front of the gas purge there is this round thing with 2 wires and a place to attach a vacuum or vent hose. Does a hose need to be hooked up to it. If so where does it go?

Question 3: just trying to go back to basics. On the carbs as they sit on the bike. In line were the gas hose attaches to the carbs. There are 3 tubes to attach vaccum/vent hoses to. Is the vacuum line for the gas purge the middle one?

We are very close guys. Thanks for all of your help.
 
No cracks in the airbox - my mistake. Anyone want to buy this thing?
 
I FOUND THE PROBLEM !!!!!!!

The insulation was worn on the white wire for cycl 1& 4 at the points. :-D I still have a lean condition off idle, but i can figure that out.

This forum is a tremendous resource for GS owners. Thanks to all for your help.\\:D/
 
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