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Dead cylinder at idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter glenwill
  • Start date Start date
You better check to make sure you didn't get gas in your crankcase. Open your oil filler cap. If it smells of gas, change your oil and filter.
 
OK..try this then. Look inside the plug cap and youll see the brass thing has a screw driver slot. Unscrew that and dump the contents into your hand. The ceramic thing is a resistor ( i am assuming they are the stock style caps ). take some 1/8 inch copper rod or brass rod ( real thick gauge house wire will work too ) and cut a piece the length of the resistor and out it in the cap..then reinstal the brass thing that grips the plug. If then resitior has failed this will again restore spark to the plug. If this fixes the problem do it to the other 3 before they fail too.

Regap the plugs to 32 to 35 as well to be sure.
 
Last edited:
jsandidge said:
You better check to make sure you didn't get gas in your crankcase. Open your oil filler cap. If it smells of gas, change your oil and filter.
Click to expand...

Good point. I was going to change the oil anyway. At least I didn't already do it.
 
chuck hahn said:
OK..try this then. Look inside the plug cap and youll see the brass thing has a screw driver slot. Unscrew that and dump the contents into your hand. The ceramic thing is a resistor ( i am assuming they are the stock style caps ). take some 1/8 inch copper rod or brass rod ( real thick gauge house wire will work too ) and cut a piece the length of the resistor and out it in the cap..then reinstal the brass thing that grips the plug. If then resitior has failed this will again restore spark to the plug. If this fixes the problem do it to the other 3 before they fail too.

Regap the plugs to 32 to 35 as well to be sure.
Click to expand...

Thanks Chuck. I did swap the plug wires between 1 and 4, and the problem remained on cylinder 4, with cylinder 1 working strong with wire 4. I think that would confirm the resistor is good. I did take it out and look at it today, and it looked intact as well.
 
Yeah..if it fired off 1 then its good still...but still a good tip for you to file away for some day down the line.
 
glen i would bet that you still have a plugged passageway in your carb somewhere that is causing of all this
 
Steve said:
Yes, I have used a Colortune. Yes, it can help confirm proper (or NO) combustion at idle.

However, as others have mentioned you should use a Carbtune (or your Motion Pro) first.

If you already have a Colortune, feel free to use it, but don't count on it. :-k
I used one on a bike with VM carbs and was VERY excited about the results, so I took it home to use on my wife's bike. I saw absolutely NO change in the color throughout the adjustment range. The only thing I saw change was the frequency of the nice, blue flame. As I leaned the mixture screw (on the BS carbs), the flame would occasionally stutter, then finally go away. As I richen the mixture back up, the flame would stutter into existence, then stay steady. Richening the screw farther made no change to the color of the flame.

I posted the results here and asked about the experiences that others have had with a Color tune on BS carbs and the results were about 50/50. Some saw changes, others only saw the stuttering that I saw, so I chose to not get one for my own toolbox.

.
Click to expand...
I did a search and found your post, and saw the mixed results. I'll hold off buying the Colortune until I see how I do recleaning the carbs.

What about the float valves I posted?

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...Mikuni-type+float+needles+6-Pk&item=KL18-8957

Anyone have experience with them? I don't think they are Mikuni, but they are cheap.
 
tdeglass said:
I just fixed the same problem on my GS850, and it happened to be on the same # 4 cylinder. My issue was a blocked passage between the air jet in the air horn and the fuel pickup just above pilot jet circuit. Tricky circuit to clean. I accomplished the fix by ample applications of persistence, cleaner wires, lots of carb clearer, patience and more persistence, more clear wires/tools and more carb cleaner. Finally got all the gunk out after many attempts. Runs like a champ. It took about 6 months to fix this problem if you count the time from the original carburetor dipping and the initial rebuild. Things never come easy to me.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I took it apart today, and I think I found the passage you are referring to. I cleaned it with a cleaner wire. I see 3 different tiny holes in that vicinity. One on one side of the throttle, and 2 on the other side. I was able to push a wire into each, but I can't tell if I got enough. I'll work on it more this week. It's in the dip now.

Hopefully this does it.

I also found that I was missing the rubber gasket that sits in a small circle under the paper gasket. I have ordered that part to replace. I'm not sure what symptoms that would cause.
 
I am running on all cylinders!!

I thoroughly cleaned carb 4, again. I dipped overnight this time, and used steel cleaning wires to get into the tiny holes on either side of the throttle valve.

It started much easier, and revs so much quicker. Took it for a ride, and cannot believe the difference. I think I was on 3 cylinders all last year.

Thanks to everyone for the assistance.

Glen
 
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