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Did I burn out my Accel coils or something else.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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Hi all, I'm a new member.

I was on my way home from work and I saw a 79 GS 1000 for sale for $750. I had $450 in my pocket and rode it home.

When I bought it, he told me he thought the stator was bad again because it wasn't charging. He also told me that he had a Dyna ignition installed to replace the points, and Accel coils.

It ran fine coming home. Next time I tried to start it, very hard to start. Found the problem, needed to adjust the choke cable, it wasn't opening all the way.

Now with all that trying to start the battery was weak. I tried to jump it on an automotive battery charger, and now I realize it must have blown something out.

I got it started and it ran poorly. 1 and 4 pipes were not getting hot.

Checked spark, none on 1 and 4.

Today I swithed the coils to see if one was bad. Again, it looks like it was a big mistake to use the charger to start the bike. I got it running long enough to see that now 2 and 3 were not firing so it was the one coil that was apparently bad. It stalled, I started it again (I had a voltmeter hooked up and it was reading 16+ volts while running with the charger on it still). Apparently that was too much cause it stalled and wouldn't start again. I could tell it stalled for a reason. No more spark.

The fuse block with the main, HD light, signal and IGN. was very very hot.

HD lights still work, signals work. Test light on fuse panel shows hot to everything. Test light shows hot on all low voltage wires on the coils.

Did I ruin the coils or did I melt something down in the bike's harness?
 
PS - I pulled the stator cover off and the stator looks like brand new. I suspect the problem is the R/R, and once I get it running again, I plan to troubleshoot the charging problem and possibly buy the Electrex R/R.

Another question. If my Stator proves to be good and R/R bad, shoud I just buy the R/R? In other words, with the Electrex R/R prevent future standard stator failure or should I get the whole charging kit?
 
If you can open up the fuse block start by cleaning up the terminals on it. Then go through the wiring and clean up and tighten all the connectors. Male sure you have good grounds. If that doesn't help either the stator or R/R, maybe both, are bad. There are tests you can find on this site's homepage to diagnose those. Sounds like you have a bad coil too. I may have a used 3 ohm Dyna coil laying around you can have if you can use it.
 
I've run the stock charging system since my bike was new. Early in the bike's existance I replaced the R/R and the stator just once. It's been about 18 years and no trouble since. You can test the R/R off the bike.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

That test is for my '85 but will probably work on your bike.
 
If the stator checks good I wouldn't change it. UNTIL you get it running I would disconnect the regulator. Running 16 volts could have burn't the ign coil You may have burn't both of the coils so check resistance with your volt meter. Make SURE you have the correct 3 ohm type coils, If you need to replace them you can use some off of a late model bandit, GSXR etc
 
I have been browsing/searching this site, looking for the test to see if a coil is bad, I can't find it. I remember testing coils with an ohmmeter back in my GSXR days. Is it correct to set the multimeter to OHMs and put one lead on each low voltage terminal, looking to see if you get 3 OHMs?

I have already checked my connections and cleaned the fuse block.

That really sucks, if I blew out the coils. It was a fairly new Accel kit.

I read the stator papers and began rewiring by removing the bad ground from R/R and hooking it along with the positive direct to the battery. I can't figure out how to override the headlight circuit, but I think someone has already done this as there are some cut wires from the harness.

When I get it running again, I will test the stator as demonstrated on the Stator Papers, I intend to replace the R/R with the Electrex model either way.
 
UNTIL you get it running I would disconnect the regulator. Running 16 volts could have burn't the ign coil You may have burn't both of the coils so check resistance with your volt meter
Click to expand...

So if the regulator is not working it won't protect the coils while overcharging right? That's why it seems my coils are blown now after jumping at 16v??? If the reg was good I wouldn't have this problem?

Is there anything else that could have blown out other than the coils?

How do I check the resistance w/ volmeter?

Thanks
Mike
 
You should get 3-5ohms on the primary side and 30-50k on the secondary side with stock coils. I don't think you'll get 30-50k on the secondary of the Accel coils. Probably somewhere around 15-20k. I pretty sure I have one good Dyna coil around. You can have it for shipping if you find out you need one.
 
secondary being the side with the high voltage spark plug wires right?

So to test the OHMs use a multimeter set to OHM right?

What is "k" a measurment of?
 
k=1,000, so 50k=50,000

Set the meter to ohmX1 to check the primary side. Then set it to ohmX1,000 to check the secondary side. To check the secondary side put one lead into each of the plug wires for that coil.
 
.3 to .8 ohms on the primary side on each and 22 to 23k on the secondary. I guess they are shot right?
 
Was the meter set at X1 or X10 for the primary side readings?
 
It's an automatic multimeter. My other multimeter that you can set doesn't seem to be working properly.
 
If the coils are indeed toast do as Lynn has suggested and go the Ebay route for some GSXR, Katana, or Bandit coils. You can usually get a fairly new, low mileage set for about $30.
 
I just went through the box of parts the guy gave me with the bike, (he kept all the old parts)

The old stator looks like it was put in the toaster. There are 4 R/Rs in there and a set of coils. The old coils read 4.3 on primary but no reading on one and only 2.3 on the the other's secondary.

I'll get a set of coils.

I guess battery chargers are a no no with these bikes? Since they always seem to have charging/starting problems, how do you jump start them when you are working on them and you don't want to wait to trickle charge?
 
I've never had any problem using a battery charger at 4 or 5 amps for an hour or two. Never had any trouble jump starting off of a car either.
 
So what happened to my coils, and why did the fuse block get so hot?
 
Hmm the R/R will burn the coils? So I should get new coils and a new R/R before running the new coils right?

If my R/R was good then it would have regulated the 16 volts coming in from the battery charger???
 
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