Differences between VM26 carbs for GS850 and GS1000 engines?

[saaz]

I have the Ts off my VM26s spare, but a fat lot of good to you guys over there!

The VM26/28 story had a thread a while back. People got confused because different markets got different bikes. Over in Australia and the UK we got the VM28s on the last of the slide carb bikes, with some of the S models with bigger slide carbs again. The 78 model definitely only came here with the VM26, but the VM28 was an upgrade for later ones. Years ago I put on K900 28 mm carbs to get around the problem. Easier to tune as well, as the pilot circuit has onlt the pilot screw.

People may have played around putting 1000 carbs on 850s in the belief they would get more power. From memory putting in the cams off a 750/850 into a 1000 makes a difference as the 1000 cams are milder.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Brion, just remember to ask them the overall size of the 29's "T". 2 1/4" end to end, and 1 1/4" is the width of the metal body. Obviously, each end that goes into the carb inlet is close to 1/2". I really don't think the diameter of the inlets would differ. But if you want me to check after work, I'll even measure the diameters with my verniers.

 

[earlfor]

I appreciate the offer Brion, but I dont have any Tee problems. My biggest problem is occasionally dribbling a little beer. thanks though.

Earl

quote="bgk"]

Earl, Lynn, Robert, how 'bout you? You guys have been good to me. Unless the part is outrageously priced, it'll be my treat at the "T" fitting ice cream stand! All part of the GSR spirit.

 

[bgk]

Earl: That's alcohol abuse!

However, with all the trouble Keith has had with my carbs, I'll bet he has been dribbling or will soon dribble some beer. That would be forgiven, given the special circumstances!

Keith: I both phoned and emailed motorcyclecarbs.com today, after 10 AM east coast time. I just got voice mail when I called. No response via phone or email yet. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Anonymous]

Lynn, you're on the same track I was on a while back; I was wondering about the rubberized 'T' on the BS series, and the notion of "Mini-Lathe" sprang up right away.

I haven't been bitten by that bug; some poor folks have it chronically, with multiple workbenches, jigs, stock storage, etc. A true MiniLathe fanatic would be ecstatic at the notion of someone needing his / her services & equipment.

I wonder if there's a Usenet group for MiniLathe users?

 

[bgk]

Guys,

Am I screwed? My email to motorcyclecarbs.com is as follows (you've got to read it from the bottom, up!):


T's are $39.95 and are made to fit as needed.

The VM26/268 is no longer available but it does not matter as it wont fit your application anyways.

We would need a sample of your tee to make one. It seems that every make and every model, and every year has a different tee and to this day we have never seen an application where a tee is the same on one yr/make/mdl as another.

The tee we provide will be brass with oring grooves and orings installed.

S/H is $6.95 USPS Priority Mail when we get it from our machine shop.

Robert P. Reil
Managing Director,
Motorcyclecarbs.com, Inc.
745 Birchwood Rd. SW
Marietta, Ga. 30060
Office 770-435-3372
Fax 770-435-3377
www.motorcyclecarbs.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Brion G. Koning [mailto:bkoning@cavtocci.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 12:42 PM
To: sales@motorcyclecarbs.com
Subject: Fuel "T" fitting for Mikuni VM26 carbs

Hi,

I'd like to buy a couple of fuel line "T" fittings for a 4-carb set of Mikuni VM 26 carbs (one "T" to install, one "T" for a spare).

The application is for a 1979 Suzuki GS1000.

I looked at your parts diagram for a VM 29, http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/mikuni/frames/VM29frame.htm and I think I
need:

Diagram ID number: 8

Description: "fuel joint"

Part number: VM26 / 268

Is this the right part number for a fuel line "T" fitting for a VM 26 carb (even though it's a VM 29 diagram and parts list)?

What is the price per "T" fitting?

What is the price for the four O-rings for each "T" fitting?

What is the price for shipping?

Please email back or phone me at 508-878-0234.

Thank you.



Brion Koning

 

[Anonymous]

Just to be sure: We've tried going through a cooperative Suzuki dealership?

 

[gremlin]

this place has a lot of vm26 carbs. thay have been striped clean of fuel needle valves. cascades is hard to tell when thay are open. the guys there kinda work when thay need to.

Cascade Motorcycle Salvage
2404 N Old State Rd 37
Bloomington, IN 47404-2050
Phone: (812) 336-3149

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Just read the news. Rats! What they said about every model and every year having a different "T" would at least explain why the three I have all fit differently in the same carb inlets. I don't buy it though. They did say "seems". The one "T" my local salvage yard had was off a Kawa' KZ650 and was identical. It simply would'nt make sense for the "T' to be exactly the same except for a couple of hundreds different diameter rubber ends.
I'm sure the real reason is what conditions each "T" has been exposed to over time. The rubber actually feels OK on the three I have, but I don't know what a new one would feel like. I'm sure we're talking about .02" thicker would make his seal. I wonder if rubber tape is gas resistant? I don't know. I could call 3M possibly and ask. If they said it would seal against gas, I could cut a 1/8" or so thin strip and wrap it around any part of the "T" I choose. You could not build up on the raised ribs because I'm sure we only need a couple of hundreds. Rubber tape has to wrap on itself at least a little so it will meld into itself. This would result in something too thick. But if I wrapped it between the two raised ribs, I could stretch it and probably get two full wraps and experiment until I have just the right fit. The "T" may or may not still swivel but that's not critical anyways. It's easy to slip the fuel line on and off without the "T" being swiveled. I could install it so it's facing just right anyways.
This is just a thought. It would work as long as the rubber tape is gas resistant. There may be a similar kind of tape out there that is gas resistant.
I'm also wondering if someone makes a gas resistant liquid sealer that can be brushed on? Just apply a coat, let it dry and you're in business.
Another thought is I could take some fine wire that's similar in size to Roberts fuel tube o-rings and heat it up and try melting a groove into the rubber ends. If I can get the right size wire and gradually melt the groove more and more, eventually his o-rings may fit in without stretching. This is assuming his o-rings are the size we need, which I believe they are.
I might try practicing something on one of the three I have.
The different fit of each part is the problem. You could have 10 people send you one and none of them fit. We'll figure out something.
Thanks for the help you guys!

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Just to be sure: We've tried going through a cooperative Suzuki dealership?

I'm going to try my dealer tomorrow. You never know. Maybe an NOS one gathering dust in the back?

 

[Anonymous]

The newsgroup you're looking for is:

alt.rec.crafts.metalworking

Populated by lathe types. Some real fanatics. You'll need the measurements from one of the O-ring type 'T's from the VM26's. I had one that was part of Harrison Clement's bank of carbs, but of course I returned it with the carb I borrowed.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Robert...Brion sent me a message last night that he had located two "T" fittings and they're on the way.
One is like his original and the other is the kind with the replaceable o-rings. I still have the un-used fuel tube o-rings from your kit. I expect your o-rings to fit well and we'll be all set. Even if the original type fits well, I would rather install the replacable o-ring type. It will be up to Brion.
As soon as they arrive I can check out the fit of the fuel tube o-rings. Then I can post a "review" on your o-ring kits and actually say I checked ALL the o-rings in the kit.
By the way anyone, regarding a "home repair" on these fittings...my wife found a site that recommends a product called "Seal-All". This site says they're a group of motorcyclists that tested this product. It's a brush on glue that's fuel resistant, among other things. Dries fast, goes on clear, readily available. The same company makes "Shoe-Goo" and many other products. Sounds like it could work if you have a similar problem and can't get a replacement. Just an option maybe.
If you're interested in reading about it, the page she printed says:
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/reviews/SEALALLGLUEReview.htm
I'm too dumb to do anything on a computer except type, so I hope that address works.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I just thought I would check that link and it does work.
It says "error" but you can go down and click the home page and visit them.

 

[Anonymous]

Someday we'll teach you the 'cut & paste' trick...

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/reviews/SealAllGlueReview.htm

150 degree upper limit for temperature, though. I'd rather hold out for brand new rubber. No nasty surprises with gasoline. The review mentions that it works for intake boots; I wonder if they're just basting the boots with the adhesive, or what.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I don't think the bottom of the carbs would reach 150 degrees but...who knows. It was just a suggestion for someone who's completely out of options. I don't endorse this stuff in any way. You would have to examine/test it and decide if it could work. I just mentioned it as a possibility. I too would wait and see if I could locate a replacement before experimenting with sealants.

 

[Anonymous]

Well, I didn't mean to shoot down your suggestion -- and the spec of 150F might be just a CYA thing for lawsuits. I just get nervous about fuel leaks. Where did your 'client' find the 'T' that takes O-rings?

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Robert, Brion said he went to his local dealer who knows him well. They took a pair of carb banks apart for him. I'm pretty sure he knew what to look for. I don't know what models the carbs came off of. I don't have much faith the original type will fit right but I have to believe the one with replaceable o-rings will work. Got my fingers crossed.

 

[Anonymous]

MY BOOK GS1000E lists the carbs AS 26mm for the GS1000 and 850 Other than a main jet difference they are the same, if you are installing a jet kit It doesn't matter The 850 is jetted richer than the 1000

Lynn, just curious. If you have the carb spec's for both the 850 and 1000, are you saying the only difference you see is the main jet? So, in particular, the air jet and needle jet are identical? That's needle jet, not jet needle.
I have the 1000 factory manual spec's but not any technical 850 info. Thanks!

Keith, here are the 850 VM26SS specs as given in my F.S.M. Pilot Air Jet: 1.2, Pilot jet: #15, Cutaway: 1.5, Jet Needle: 5DL36-2, Needle jet: 0-6, Pilot outlet: 0.6, Main jet: #102.5, Bypass 0.8 This is for the 850G. There are other specs for model variations sold in different markets. Thanks for your other comments regarding base-line settings for these carbs - I was about to post an inquiry but got what I need from the search engine. Thanks to all of you GS people.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

dodger1, Thank you too!