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Dimensionally smaller battery - need advice on cold cranking amp requirements

Fjbj40 said:
I tried the kill switch mod first. While it worked it was not 100% effective. I still had the occasional kick back, because of the low cca of the battery.

I then went with the ignition retard lever and all kick back problems ended, the same result that every person who has done the mod experienced. I still kept the kill switch mod in place but only use the retard lever for starting.

Just my opinion but I think you are way overdoing it with the extra relays. But it is your bike and what you are planning is going to be pretty cool if it works, and it should.

Do us all a favor if it works and add to the "how to prevent starter clutch death" post when you succeed.

By the way, your bike looks awesome!

Cheers
Click to expand...

Here's the issue - I'm smart enough to realize that there are others out there that know more about these bikes than me. If delaying the energizing of the ignition coils isn't the 100% solution, than what's the point? Spend $60+ for a 1/2 solution...

It appears that either a manual timing retard or an electronic one is the ticket. Does anyone know for certain if the Dyna 2000 ignition will do what we are discussing - either retard or limit the timing under certain RPM's? If so, It may be the solution that I will pursue.
 
philosopheriam said:
Here's the instruction manual to the Dyna 2000

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DDK3-3.pdf

It appears that a timing retard can be triggered by grounding a wire in the ignition harness - the retard is adjustable from 4 to 16 degrees. Sounds like an excellent solution. Have a relay triggered by the starter that grounds the retard wire. Done....
Click to expand...
I don't think you interpreted the manual correctly. The diagrams I posted are from the Dynz manual znd the only thing relevant to the discussion of kickback.
 
posplayr said:
I don't think you interpreted the manual correctly. The diagrams I posted are from the Dynz manual znd the only thing relevant to the discussion of kickback.
Click to expand...

Posplayr,

Forgive me, I'm not trying to be an argumentative jerk, but I'm missing what you're trying to say - how did I misinterpret the manual?
 
posplayr said:
I don't think you interpreted the manual correctly. The diagrams I posted are from the Dynz manual znd the only thing relevant to the discussion of kickback.
Click to expand...

Okay, I may have figured out what you're saying - at 1000 rpm or under the triggered retard doesn't take effect.
 
While this is all a good idea, I believe you're over thing a problem that may not exist.
Most 1085 owners have no problem starting the bike.
Just modify your headlight lever and run it off when you start up
 
Big T said:
While this is all a good idea, I believe you're over thing a problem that may not exist.
Most 1085 owners have no problem starting the bike.
Just modify your headlight lever and run it off when you start up
Click to expand...

Whut? a smaller battery does not exist?
 
Not to start any arguments, JMO, I doubt you "need" more than 175 CCA. Only one cylinder at a time comes up to compression, and on a liter bike, those cylinders are only 250cc. A four cranks over much easier than a big twin, which has larger cylinders by far. My Guzzi has 475cc per cylinder, and it starts up just fine with 170 CCA battery in it. I stuck it in there temporarily and haven't seen the need to go buy a bigger one. My GS850 starts with a very low charge (from past experience) on a 200 CCA battery. I believe that unless you have one that seems to have to crank awhile it won't matter much. I only put a 175 CCA battery in a custom 750 Virago and with starter problems it cranked a long time.
 
wymple said:
Not to start any arguments, JMO, I doubt you "need" more than 175 CCA. Only one cylinder at a time comes up to compression, and on a liter bike, those cylinders are only 250cc. A four cranks over much easier than a big twin, which has larger cylinders by far. My Guzzi has 475cc per cylinder, and it starts up just fine with 170 CCA battery in it. I stuck it in there temporarily and haven't seen the need to go buy a bigger one. My GS850 starts with a very low charge (from past experience) on a 200 CCA battery. I believe that unless you have one that seems to have to crank awhile it won't matter much. I only put a 175 CCA battery in a custom 750 Virago and with starter problems it cranked a long time.
Click to expand...

You are not accounting for the higher compression ratio, the biggest factor applicable here.

Factory compression ratio is much lower, on either a twin or 4 cylinder. Bump it up to 10.25:1 and you will see the problems with 175 CCA!
 
Big T said:
While this is all a good idea, I believe you're over thing a problem that may not exist.
Most 1085 owners have no problem starting the bike.
Just modify your headlight lever and run it off when you start up
Click to expand...

No need to modify, the 78 has the on/off feature from the factory, for me it did not help, much.
 
"You are not accounting for the higher compression ratio, the biggest factor applicable here.

Factory compression ratio is much lower, on either a twin or 4 cylinder. Bump it up to 10.25:1 and you will see the problems with 175 CCA!"


You may be correct, if it makes that much difference to go to 10-1 from 9.2-1. My Guzzi cranks pretty easy at 9.2 with large cylinders.
 
Last edited:
Fjbj40 said:
No need to modify, the 78 has the on/off feature from the factory, for me it did not help, much.
Click to expand...

Actually, it didn't

You had to remove the lever and file a bit of it off to allow it to move.


But, my point stands. Going to a 1085 on my 78 never made a difference in starting
 
The 2 I've had running didn't. They changed the casting for the plastic lever and filled in the slot

I haven't checked the ones in my parts bins

Anyway, easy fix, remove screw, file plastic smooth, reinstall
 
Yeah, it was a federal US thing, headlights on all the time

So, Suzuki recast the plastic switch so you couldn't move it down to off
 
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