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Disabling AntiDive But Keeping the Look

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pete Logan
  • Start date Start date
P

Pete Logan

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Can I safely disable the antidive on my '82 GS750E by making a copper gasket without a hole in it for the fluid to go through and fitting it to this joint ? Same as a block-off plate, but keeping the original look.

Is there anything else I have to worry about or do ? I have a nagging feeling there is, but can't for the life of me remember or find anything with search.

Thanks guys.

antidive.jpg
 
OK, I'm at a loss. What is so bad about the anti-dive that most of you want to disble it? :-k

Worse yet, why disable it, yet keep "the look" and the (unsprung) weight. :-s

Obviously, I have not ridden a Suzuki with anti-dive, or I might know this first-hand.
Other bikes I have ridden with anti-dive have worked rather well. 8-[
 
I have the anti-dive forks on the 1100ES and they seem to work well the few times I've had to do some quick braking.
 
It's not that it's so terrible, I don't notice it and I don't ride hard enough to worry about unsprung weight and prefer to keep the look.

It's just to reduce the total amount of pumping that has to be done, which some people report firms up the lever and improves braking.

If enough people tell me I'm a donkey, I'll go out and buy a saddle instead :-D
 
Steve said:
OK, I'm at a loss. What is so bad about the anti-dive that most of you want to disble it? :-k
Click to expand...

because a: it doesn't work they way it should and b: it gives your frontbrake a rather spongy feeling.
Ed
 
There is another way. It took them a few years bt if you look at the 1986 models they went from the brake actuated anti-dive to a preload adjust system. I know on the 550 models the forks are the same diameter through all the years...

Check to see if you can pick up a set of 1986 GS750 forks.

You'll need to change the banjo bolt on the caliper side to a smaller one...
 
Just pull the hose going from the caliper to the anti-dive, replace the dual line bolt on the caliper with the single line bolt from the anti-dive and get a shorter solid bolt to fit into the anti-dive. Simple enough me thinks and exactly what I intend when I fit my stainless lines...
 
what is it?

what is it?

This mysterious 'anti dive'? Does my 82 650G have it? Just wondering...
 
ironsheik said:
Just pull the hose going from the caliper to the anti-dive, replace the dual line bolt on the caliper with the single line bolt from the anti-dive and get a shorter solid bolt to fit into the anti-dive. Simple enough me thinks and exactly what I intend when I fit my stainless lines...
Click to expand...

That takes care of the brake squishiness but still allows the oil from the forks to flow through it.. if they aren't working properly or worse if only one side isn't working properly you're asking for trouble.
 
jbs80106 said:
This mysterious 'anti dive'? Does my 82 650G have it? Just wondering...
Click to expand...

Nope you do not...

If you're worried about your front end "diving" on ya I say go for a set of progressive front springs and slightly heavier fork oil. (the springs should cost about 80 - 100$ for the set)
 
Anti-Dive Forks

Anti-Dive Forks

I don't have a lot of GS experience but I started riding long before disc brakes came along. I regularly ride a BMW with ABS brakes, one without ABS, an old Goldwing and the GS1100EZ which is a real runner. I just replaced fork seals and on the first ride afterward I found the lock up point on the front and rear brakes. I really have found no problem with the front system at all. The lever is not Squishy feeling and it stops well. The calipers and MC have been recently rebuilt but I still have the old lines. I like the feel of steel lines and will add them soon. If the anti-dive system begins to have a negative effect on the bike's ability to stop I will make a change.
Lee :-D
 
Ed Vrolijk said:
because a: it doesn't work they way it should and b: it gives your frontbrake a rather spongy feeling.
Ed
Click to expand...

Not looking for a debate, but again, today on my 70 mile ride I purposed to test out my stock anti dive setup on my '83 GS1100ES to find "problems".
But, I still think it works great, no spongy feel, very secure stopping behavior and is also better than my '83 GS1100G w/o anti dive.
I wouldn't disable it!
 
lurch12_2000 said:
Not looking for a debate, but again, today on my 70 mile ride I purposed to test out my stock anti dive setup on my '83 GS1100ES to find "problems".
But, I still think it works great, no spongy feel, very secure stopping behavior and is also better than my '83 GS1100G w/o anti dive.
I wouldn't disable it!
Click to expand...
i agree.. my g is lucky enough to have e forks and i really like the feel of the anti dive. my brakes don't feel spongy.. in fact if i grab a handful for a hard stop they lock the front wheel with little effort!
 
skreemer said:
That takes care of the brake squishiness but still allows the oil from the forks to flow through it.. if they aren't working properly or worse if only one side isn't working properly you're asking for trouble.
Click to expand...

Doesn't this apply whether they're hooked up or not?

Josh
 
skreemer said:
There is another way. It took them a few years bt if you look at the 1986 models they went from the brake actuated anti-dive to a preload adjust system. I know on the 550 models the forks are the same diameter through all the years...

Check to see if you can pick up a set of 1986 GS750 forks.

You'll need to change the banjo bolt on the caliper side to a smaller one...
Click to expand...
My forks have an aftermarket two-position mechanical pre-load adjuster.

Really, I just want to know a. if the solid gasket will work to switch off the anti-dive b. if there's anything else I have to do as well and c. if there's any good (ie: safety-related) reason not to do it.

Thanks for all the input, guys.
 
a. I don't know the mechanics of Suzuki's anti-dive, so I don't know if that will work.

b. If the solid gasket will stop the anti-dive function, I can't imagine what else you would need to do.

c. Good reason? Can't think of much, besides losing a bunch of wheel travel that might come in handy if you happen to hit some bumps while braking. 8-[ If the front does not dive as much during braking, the forks will not change their angle as much, so steering will not change (due to the decreased fork angle). If at night, your headlight will also keep shining farther up the road for better visibility.

Actually, I understand your question about disabling it, I just can't understand why you would want to do it, unless it's not working right. And, based on previous posters, I am understanding that it has the capability to work relatively well. I know the system on my GoldWing works well, but that is a mechanical activation, not hydraulic, so it does not change the feel of the brakes, only how much the bike dives when braking.

.
 
lurch12_2000 said:
Not looking for a debate, but again, today on my 70 mile ride I purposed to test out my stock anti dive setup on my '83 GS1100ES to find "problems".
But, I still think it works great, no spongy feel, very secure stopping behavior and is also better than my '83 GS1100G w/o anti dive.
I wouldn't disable it!
Click to expand...

Then you're a lucky man! on my bike it didn't work, so i disabled them the way ironsheik discribed:

ironsheik said:
Just pull the hose going from the caliper to the anti-dive, replace the dual line bolt on the caliper with the single line bolt from the anti-dive and get a shorter solid bolt to fit into the anti-dive. Simple enough me thinks and exactly what I intend when I fit my stainless lines...
Click to expand...

Combined with progressive springs it brakes very predictable and hold it's line trough the twisty s way better than before, altough that has more to do with the progressive springs.
Ed
 
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