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Do I need to replace my base gasket?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ian Donahue
  • Start date Start date
These sometimes have low compression after a long nap. My 15k mile 850 was in the 60-90 range when it woke up, after 2000 miles it is 150-170.

That's good to know - so the bike should run (but not well) even at 60psi? That means I'm still chasing fuel delivery issues... Thanks Bobgroger.
 
Update #something: In case anyone is still following along, things are going well with my 850! My stalling problem was the petcock- when I switched to prime it ran better, and I put 100 miles on it over the weekend, very exciting. Couple of easier questions:

Choke - my choke seems to be "binary". It is on, and the revs (when cold) jump to 3500 - 4500, and when I gently slide the thing over, it stays the same until the choke is off and the idle comes down. Is this the way the choke is designed, or do I still have carb issues? Also, what do you think of warming up the bike at revs that high? Seems a little violent.

Idle - after warming up and riding around a bit, I will have issues with a rising idle, if that's the right word. When I clutch in at a stop sign or a light, the idle climbs up to around 2500. A quick blip of the throttle brings it back down to 1200, usually. What is this a sign of? Vacuum leak? Carb issue? I have replaced intake boots and o-rings, and rebuilt the airbox (stock). Any thoughts?

Anyhoo - thanks for all the help so far, wouldn't have even known where to start without GSR!
 
Choke - my choke seems to be "binary". It is on, and the revs (when cold) jump to 3500 - 4500, and when I gently slide the thing over, it stays the same until the choke is off and the idle comes down. Is this the way the choke is designed, or do I still have carb issues? Also, what do you think of warming up the bike at revs that high? Seems a little violent.


That's pretty normal of the GS chokes from what I've seen. Very touchy if you want somewhere between no choke and full choke. When I start my 850, I start it on full choke and then stand there for a good 30 seconds slowly pushing it in until it settles around 2000 rpm. By the time I put my helmet and gloves on, it's usually up to something like 2500. I ride away on that and push the choke in once I'm out on the road.

I don't think there's anything wrong with warming up at 4k rpm. It's just a bit noisy is all. Can't see how it would hurt the engine. Although it's probably easier on the transmission to have the RPMs down more in the 2k range for the initial shift into first gear.

Idle - after warming up and riding around a bit, I will have issues with a rising idle, if that's the right word. When I clutch in at a stop sign or a light, the idle climbs up to around 2500. A quick blip of the throttle brings it back down to 1200, usually. What is this a sign of? Vacuum leak? Carb issue? I have replaced intake boots and o-rings, and rebuilt the airbox (stock). Any thoughts?


Classic sign of a vacuum leak. Sounds like you've done the obvious. Did you replace both sets of boots? Are the carbs synced? What kind of air filter are you running? Did you tighten the screws on the sync ports of the boots? Is the petcock vacuum line on carb #2 connected or blocked off?
 
Thanks Eil. Yes on all maintenance, including a Morgan Carbtune. The air filter is the one that came with the bike this winter. I cleaned and oiled it during the airbox rebuild and resealing. I have low compression, about 70psi, although it is improving with mileage. When I spray starter fluid near the base gasket, the revs go up. One theory is that are is getting sucked in through the base gasket and then past the rings, which obviously aren't seated correctly yet. Sound crazy?

The vacuum line is hooked up to my petcock. Doesn't it have to be? Should I try plugging it and running on prime? I replaced the hose to make sure it didn't have a 30 year old pin hole in it.

Been chasing this vacuum leak for 2 months now... Any advice would be appreciated!
 
My 850 fires up cold on full choke and goes right 4000 rpm. I can turn the choke down to 2000 rpm immediately after it starts up. Within 30 seconds to a minute, I can turn off the choke and ride off. How well your bike warms up and rides off is very dependent on how well your carbs are set up and your valves are adjusted.
 
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