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Does a bad rectifier cause missing on accelleration?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Brando
  • Start date Start date
B

Brando

Guest
2 days ago my 6month old battery went dead.
I checked the charging after re-charging the battery and it's only 13.5v
at idle and drops to 13 when I get it up to 5,000rpm. It's suppose to be putting out 14v minimum, right?
I went through the Electro Sport check list and found out that rectifier needs replacement. When I drive it now and give it gas it misses or hesitates as it accellerates especially at higher speeds. I guess this is because of the bad r/r, right????
 
the hesitation should be due to impropoer fuel mixture. I really doubt R/R should cause the bike to do that.
 
the hesitation should be due to improper fuel mixture. I really doubt R/R should cause the bike to do that.
 
It would be nicer to have closer to 14V when you are >3000 rpms. Did you clean the connectors on the charging system?
 
First off, get the current battery load tested at Auto Zone or the like (for free) or if you're sure it's bad, just get a new one.

I like to put about 10 hours of charge at no more than a rate of 1.5a/hr (i.e. battery tender) to a fresh battery before I even install it. So do that, then let the battery's voltage level off (it will be around 13.6 V after charging, it will be leveled off at 12.6 V).

Now do the proper tests. What voltage readings do you get?

If the readings still point you to a new r/r, then by all means get one.

Yes, a bad r/r would sure cause some pretty rough running. You probably start out just fine, but about 10 minutes into the ride it will start spitting and sputtering. It's because your battery is being drained, and it's not supplying the required voltage level to the coils in order for them to deliver a sufficient spark.

However, a bad battery alone would also cause this to happen.

If your V readings listed above were obtained when using a new fresh battery, then by all means - get a new r/r. Don't keep running like this.
You may trash the new battery and some more electrical components if you do.

If you're real hard up for money, try to get a stock one from a reputable person on ebay. They can be had for 10-20 bucks.

Mid-range quality and cost would be one through JC Whitney or Dennis Kirk, and top end quality would be one from Electrex or through Tony at www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com. He's got top end stuff, at prices below Electrex, and if there's any problems or questions you have, you can speak to Tony directly about it. The guy is a real class act. Tony's got lifetime guarantees on all his stuff too.

If the new r/r still doesn't solve it, let us know. We'll get you through it.

Good luck
 
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