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Does the Electrex stuff work???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Michoui
  • Start date Start date
M

Michoui

Guest
Hello guys,

for the second time that %?&*"*$% regulator (or stator) died on me! I want to know if the Electrex regulator (and stator) really works, because I really don't want to call my girlfriend to pick me up again and tell her that our holiday is goanna be a little bit shorter!!

thanks!
 
Michoui said:
Hello guys,

for the second time that %?&*"*$% regulator (or stator) died on me! I want to know if the Electrex regulator (and stator) really works, because I really don't want to call my girlfriend to pick me up again and tell her that our holiday is goanna be a little bit shorter!!

thanks!
Click to expand...

I installed a new Electrix stator, and the R/R, fit was perfect, I am putting out 14.9 V @ 4000 rpm's, and with the grounding modification, my R/R is "very warm" to the touch. Cant comment on long term relibility, as I just installed the components this past winter.
 
Thanks for the info.
The problem I have today is that the bike works (for now on that brand new fresh battery), but suddenly it slowed down and won't go over 100 km/h and when I use the flasher they blink more rapidly! I don't know if it's the stator (that I change for a rebuilt for 300$ CAN last summer!!!!!) or regulator (it's a used Honda that I change last summer as well) or both again??
 
Michoui, did you connect all the wires from the honda regulator? Three yellows to the stator output wires, red to the starter solenoid, green to ground, and there should be one more, a thin brown one. That last one needs to connect to a switched 12v positive wire, like the rear brake light circuit.
 
You've got to actually measure the voltage at the battery while the bike is at 5000 RPM. If it's above 14.9 volts DC, then your R/R is toast (very common problem on these bikes). If so, replace the R/R with a "known-good" one and measure voltage at battery again. If within spec then you're done. If not, go to "stator papers" section of this site and test the various components (you'll have to get familiarized with the usage of a multimeter).
See other post by me about R/R that allows 17 volts through (not enough to blow the fuse, but enough to boil your battery dry after a couple of rides).
 
Thanks a lot for the tips guys, I really appreciate it! I'm goanna check it all out. I saw some of the info on the site, but I was too mad this morning to search everything (patience is not my type, sorry). After the change of stator and regulator this summer everything was going well for 1 month. I got it all suit up for winter afterward, got it running again, went to the shop for a little tune up (I didn't had time with the new baby), the only thing that they change was the oil+filter, spark plugs and the little thing that make the brake light works from the front brake lever (it never work before), maybe it's because of that and it gave a shortage?? It's my first ride since it's been change!

I also saw that the biggest problems was often bad grounding on the regulator, i'm gonna search for that shi... brown wire! :)

Thanks again and hope that my patience will be back or you're going to see a post in the For sale section! :)
 
Michoui said:
Hello guys,

for the second time that %?&*"*$% regulator (or stator) died on me! I want to know if the Electrex regulator (and stator) really works, because I really don't want to call my girlfriend to pick me up again and tell her that our holiday is goanna be a little bit shorter!!

thanks!
Click to expand...

Just installed an electrex stator and regulator/rectifier on my 1000, works like a champ, 14.5 volts at 4000rpm,ALSO!!! electrex has a 1 year warrenty,Suzuki has no such warrenty and 2 to 3 times the cost.
 
Michoui said:
Thanks a lot for the tips guys, I really appreciate it! I'm goanna check it all out. I saw some of the info on the site, but I was too mad this morning to search everything (patience is not my type, sorry). After the change of stator and regulator this summer everything was going well for 1 month. I got it all suit up for winter afterward, got it running again, went to the shop for a little tune up (I didn't had time with the new baby), the only thing that they change was the oil+filter, spark plugs and the little thing that make the brake light works from the front brake lever (it never work before), maybe it's because of that and it gave a shortage?? It's my first ride since it's been change!

I also saw that the biggest problems was often bad grounding on the regulator, i'm gonna search for that shi... brown wire! :)

Thanks again and hope that my patience will be back or you're going to see a post in the For sale section! :)
Click to expand...
If it had anything to do with the brake switch it would die when you apply the brakes and should blow the fuse for the lighting. If you're running the stock stuff I can post some testing procedures for you.
 
Careful with the brown wire from the Honda regulator! It needs to go to 12 volts *positive* not ground/negative. It needs to be connected to 12v+ to act as a "sense wire".

The front brake light switch gets corroded easily and is a $9 part that takes about five minutes to change. It's not the sort of design that would short easily.
 
My bike is a GS750E 1984,

For that brown wire could it be black?? Because I just checked it and there's no brown wire! There's 3 yellow, 1 red, 1 green and 1 black!
 
It's more like house wiring green is ground Blact to the 12V side of the rear brake light switch (convient place)
 
Just had an Electrex stator put on my KLR-650, seems OK, hope it holds up. Was half the price of a Kawasaki factory unit.
 
Michoui said:
My bike is a GS750E 1984,

For that brown wire could it be black?? Because I just checked it and there's no brown wire! There's 3 yellow, 1 red, 1 green and 1 black!
Click to expand...

I just bought a Shindengen SH232-12 off of eBay, it has three yellow, one red, one green, and one black, so the black must be the sense wire that is also sometimes brown.

:)
 
Hey Michoui,
you can also test the stator, it is usally 3 phase--which means you can take all three wires, conect two at a time with an ohm meter and mesure its output. All should read the same, if not, its time for a change. I did this with my 650g and got the electrex part and she works fine now. Unfortunatley, before I got my book which told me how to test it, I already changed the reg/rec which the new one was also electrex but the orginal was fine. The electex ad to be retrofit as I had to get longer screws from the harware store.
 
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